How to punch out a 35mm slide transparency?

Discussion in 'Film and Processing' started by zebmode, Jan 29, 2018.

  1. I'm looking for a device that can punch out the entire photo area of a 35mm slide transparency. Does anybody know of such a device?

  2. Sandy Vongries

    Sandy Vongries Moderator Staff Member

    If you are talking about destruction - there are easy enough ways - flame works quickly - propane or butane lighter or torch. To save, splitting the mount isn't hard. It wouldn't be hard to make ( or buy) a punch the size of the opening in a mount. The film would suffer. P.S. Your thumb would do the trick as well for destruction.
  3. How about a 12 gauge slug?
  4. Flat razor blade, fresh (flat) utility knife blade.
  5. PapaTango

    PapaTango Itinerant Philosopher

    This place just keeps getting better and better... :rolleyes:

    Say, while I have your attention--anyone know a painless way to get skin stuck in a zipper loose? :confused:
    Wayne Melia likes this.
  6. I can send you a (plastic, not cardboard) slide mount or two, so you don't have to tear up a slide or buy a whole box.
  7. As has been said a lot lately,
  8. Sandy Vongries

    Sandy Vongries Moderator Staff Member

    Like Adhesive tape? :D
  9. It might be simpler to take the entire piece of film out of the cardboard holder. You could use it like that or if you really want just the part with the image use a good scissors to cut it. Even better would be to pick up one of any number of gadgets that will allow you to make straight cuts in paper or other materials. A craft store or amazon could help you out.

    I recommend using latex (without powder) or disposable cotton gloves to handle the film so you don't get finger prints on it.

    As far as getting the cardboard holder apart, check out the image on the left below. The sprocket holes and thin border around the picture is what is sitting between the two cardboard halves. You can take a knife (pocket, utility, or xacto) to try and pry the holder apart along the bottom edge, or cut about halfway through it near the bottom of the slide (the cardboard part) and then peel back the top half.

  10. Thanks for the thoughtful responses. Scissors aren't the optimal solution since I need to do this in high quantities - and it really needs to be perfect.

    Also, let me clarify what I need to do...I'm taking unmounted 35mm slide transparencies, and need to punch out the entire "image" area. Not for destruction, but perfectly preserved since that's the piece I'm using.

    I have a device that accomplishes what I need for a smaller area within the slide. You can see it here: (the link isn't being permitted here)

    But I'm trying to avoid having a similar device custom made ($1500+) for punching out the full image area, and so I'm posting here to see if anybody has come across such a device. My apologies if I wasn't clear enough in my original post.
  11. In my prior reply, I couldn't post the link to the punch device I had found for a smaller area of the 35mm slide transparency. but Google punchlite, it's at radexinc dot com.
  12. I don't have anything of value to add to your question, but I'm wondering why you need only the image area.

    I like to preserve the entire film strip-sprocket holes and all. The reason is that the edges contain important information-specifically on the emulsion type and batch number-and I want to have that. I also like having the frame numbers.

    I request that my lab include "the ends" of a roll because when I put the mounted slides in Printfile pages, I like to include a film chip that has that information. When I use Dwaynes, they usually mount 1-2 "blank" frames and I break these open and sleeve the chip with the rest so that I have that information.
  13. The goal is to embed the punched out slide image in a keychain slide viewer. Those plastic doohickies, where you snap the photo or slide into.
  14. Wouldn't you need the outer area of the film so that your dookikies can hold the transparency and yet display the entire image?
  15. Sharp wood chisel just smaller than the short film dimension. Back up the film with a piece of nylon such as a kitchen cutting board.
  16. I agree with BeBu.
    Easier to adapt the viewer than crimp out a frame of film - that'll need holding in place by some means anyway.

    I remember when I was a little 'un, that plastic slide viewers were a bit of a fad at one time. They were used to view single-frame clips of movie film that were given away with bubble gum. Nothing is new!

    The sprocket holes were left on the film clips BTW.

    And long before that, there were 'Stanhopes'; little curios with a miniature photograph embedded and a small lens for viewing - usually pictures that a Victorian or Edwardian gentleman didn't want his wife to know about!
  17. Sandy Vongries

    Sandy Vongries Moderator Staff Member

  18. paul ron

    paul ron NYC

    quick pull...... omfgooooooooooooood!
  19. paul ron

    paul ron NYC

  20. You could have a local machine shop or converter make a "razor block die" the size you need. This would punch out the entire area in one stroke. A razor block die is used to cut cardboard and film into complex shapes for packaging. It consists of a flat block of hard wood or laminate, with grooves machined to hold thin knives. It does not allow for curved corners, however. The expensive alternative is to have a die set machined to your specific requirements, and a suitable press to hold them.

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