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How to hand-hold my Speed Graphic?


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OK, this may seem like a dumb question, but while scrolling through the Library

and Archives Canada (Don, nice job!) at

http://www.collectionscanada.ca/faces-of-war/025014-1100-e.html

 

when we scroll down to the photo of Lieutenant H. Gordon Aikman of the Canadian

Army Film and Photo Unit, holding an Anniversary Speed Graphic camera, we see

that he is holding it not by the strap but by the bed.

http://data2.collectionscanada.ca/ap/a/a150144-v6.jpg

 

Does anyone else hold their Speed or Crown Graphic that way? Wouldn't the

fingers be in the field of view of the standard 135mm lens?<div>00K52f-35148784.jpg.501f37b1466ff1ecc08354d188af7e4b.jpg</div>

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Sometime in the late '60s or early '70s Toyo aquired the rights to produce the Super Graphic -- Graflex's last 4x5 camera and the acme of the press camera design. In the Toyo manual, the proper grip for hand-holding the camera is essentially the same as that shown by the Canadian soldier.
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The Pacemaker user manuals recommend three stardards for hand holding. The hand grip, as mentioned by Dann above, with the fingers trhough the strap, the index finger being located inthe focus knob cutout. The hook hold, with the thumb hooked back under the strap front to back with the fingers steadying the camera on top of the body. And the palm support, which is shown very well by the photo above where the camera is held against the shoulder and chest and the bed supported with the palm and fingers wrapped as shown. With the standard press lenses, 127 and 135mm, thefingers should not be in the photo if they are kept curled down. The 90mm wide angle will show the very end of the bed rails if the bed is left in its standard position.

I prefer the standard hand grip, and stich my own web straps to fit the back of my hand snuggly and without the uncomfortable bumps of the leather originals, which get conditioned and put away. Some users have commented that using the body release button adds to camera shake problems. I agree, esspecially on Graphics that are not very smooth in releasing the front shutter. For the rear focal plane shutter there is not any choice, but having things lubed and releasing smoothly helps greatly, esspecially if using long lenses.

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<p>To see how David Burnett hand-holds his Speed Graphic with a 7" Aero Ektar, go to <a href = "http://www.nytimes.com/packages/khtml/2005/06/07/technology/20050605_BURNETT_AUDIOSS.html?adxnnl=1&adxnnlx=1148293871-GRTHDcE66R0S9potVjVsmw" target = "_blank">this slide show</a> and look at the 18th frame (the last photo). [Link opens in a new window].

</p><p>

Notice how his left hand is through the strap, with his middle finger in the focus knob detent; and more importantly, how his right hand is gripping the right front of the bed.</p><p>

<b>Now that he's holding his camera steady, <i> I wonder which "appendage" he is using to push the body-mounted focal plane shutter trigger... His Johnson?"</i<?/b>

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If you look closely at the photo of David Burnett his right hand is focusing the camera, not

gripping the bed. From the tilt of his head he appears to be using the side mount range

finder.

 

I have used a crown graphic extensively hand held, particularly for aerial work.

Each situation requires it's own method of holding the camera and I have effectively used all

the ones mentioned above. As for the picture above, with the standard 135mm lens the

fingers are not in the way of the field of view. Holding the bed like that can actually makes

the camera more stable than just resting it on your hand.

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  • 3 years later...

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