How to get a SHARP image of moving toddler AND good bokeh?

<p>Ok, need some tips from all you children's photographers!</p>

<p>I am a little stumped on whether it is at all possible to get "consistent" tack sharp images of toddlers who won't stay still and have a good out of focus background at the same time.</p>

<p>As you probably know, there is no such thing as posing a toddler. That 18month - 2 year range, they are always on the move, and on the move fast!<br>

What is my best bet of capturing a great portrait with tack sharp eyes/face and blurry background?</p>

<p>High ISO? (can get grainy)<br />Tripod/steady hands/IS? (no good if subject is moving)<br />shooting wide open for blurry background? (that much harder to get good focus on moving subject)</p>

<p>What is your formula that you use for toddlers? Especially when shooting outdoors where they are running about?<br>

If I had all the time in the world to frame and compose a shot, I bet I would nail it relatively well each time with time to meter, make the right settings, , use a tripod, frame the shot etc etc. But with a toddler, you only have a split second to capture a moment. All the proper procedures for portrait taking simply do not apply.<br>

When I shoot, I would take tons of shots and end up with a few "lucky" ones which are in perfect focus and such. But I am just wondering if there's a better way to go about it (better settings? better lens? better process?) to end with with more great quality shots.<br>

How do you do it? Please share the lens/settings you use and whether you have crop factor on your camera.</p>

<p>Any tactics to actually make a toddler stand still and "pose" would be even better ;) </p>

<p>Good bokeh has nothing to do with your question. You are looking for shallow depth of field.</p>

<p>Shallow depth of field is based on the magnification of the image and the f/stop used. With a full frame camera an 85 to 100 can work well long enough to get you away from the subject, but still keeps you in contact with them. If you are close to a toddler, they will look at you without much prodding. Use a 50-85 for a cropped format camera.</p>

<p>The aperture should be as open as possible f/2.0 is a good start.</p>

<p>If your images show movement, you need to set a higher shutter speed. You should use the lowest ISO that will allow you to shoot around 1/250-1/500. Aperture priority automatic for outdoor (you set the aperture, camera selects the shutter speed would work fine).</p>

<p>But is sounds like your images are out of focus. That can only be fixed with practice. The very quality of shallow depth of field means that focusing is extremely critical. Many cameras' autofocus can work, but you need to be extremely comfortable with the camera-know how each camera picks focus areas, how to anticipate focus, etc</p>

<p>Most of them do slow down every once in a while. Timing is everything.<br>

Beyond that, I agree with John's assertion that focus is probably the area to, ahem, focus your attention.</p>

<p>When I shot children, I gave them something to do--something to hold on to and catch their attention.  A colorful book, a feather, anything that would capture their attention for even a few seconds.  Ask them about what's in their hands.  It only lasts for seconds, but that's generally enough time to get some great shots.<br>

For studio shots--turn off the room lights so that only the flash modeling lights are lighting the room.  The darkened room gives the child less things to look at and get distracted.  Also, talk softly and tell them a story--regardless if they're old enough to understand--it's all in the soft tone of the voice.</p>

<ol>

<li>If shooting with available light, machine gun the DSLR. Put the camera on continuous AF and manually select a focusing point that roughly gives the right framing. Track the subject on the same focusing point as the camera bursts through exposures. </li>

<li>Use strobes. Select camera and flash settings so that the ambient lighting does not majorly contribute to the exposure. The flash duration is generally short enough to freeze subject motion.</li>

</ol>

<p>To echo what William said, I shot kids for a year and it was very easy to get the toddlers to stay still, just give them something interesting to play with and, if inside, then use flash to freeze them, or outside, a high shutter speed.</p>

<p>thanks for all the tips so far!!<br>

I have to say that whenever I do give a toddler something to do to keep them still, while they do stay in one place, I end up with a ton of shots of them looking down at whatever it is they are doing. Getting those shots of them looking directly into the camera is so tough. Unless I have someone helping me out to get their attention.<br>

BTW, I used the term bokeh to mean a good out of focus background, implying the use of a shallow depth of field and yet sharp focus on the subject (which usually doesn't stay put...)</p>

<p>Jan, when you're ready to shoot, just have someone make funny little noises or use a squeaky toy. This usually will cause them to look up for a second, just long enough usually for you to take the photo.</p>

<p>If you want them to be looking at you, they need to be interested in you. Start off by playing with them, without your camera. Get down on their level and interact with them, rather than just trying to observe. Once you're one of their short-term best buddies, or one of their toys, they'll happily look at you.</p>

<p>A fast lens. Good focusing technique.</p>

<p>Put them in a situation with good light (either natural or created by you), give them an activity, and shoot away.</p>

<p>Eric</p>

<p>I am not going to speak to the technical part of this question because I think that is being addressed above...I love photographing children and have done over 500 last year ranging in age from 18 months to 18 years the key for me with the Toddlers is to have a fast lens and to be fast. Play with them - get on the ground with them... if they are looking down I lay down below them to get the shot. It is not about getting them in my world but me getting into their world. I let them take a picture of me (with me holding the lens toward my face) them I take one of them - and we make it a game - then we change venues and do something else. Pic-a-boo is a fun one for that age and I hid under a blanket they pull the blanket off - laugh - I take the shot... gotta take them time and you will get the shots... it is all about building rapport with the child to the camera and to you...</p>

<p>As mentioned the key to DOF is to use as short a lens as possible while providing a normal perspective. On a crop camera that would include the Sigma 30mm f1.4 up to a 50mm f1.4 lens. In many cases you can manually zone focus at 5' and know that with a crop camera for instance the DOF at f2 with a 35mm lens and a child 5' away will include 2' in front and up to 4 feet behind the child. Motion blur is another story and 1/80th is the bare minimum I would try to shoot at and faster is better.</p>

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