How learn film photography by yourself from basics to evolved

Discussion in 'Film and Processing' started by lieven_van_meulder|1, Dec 18, 2020.

  1. How will that prevent air bells?
    If you get air bells in the developer, the damage will already have been done by the time you get to the rinse/stop bath.

    The way to prevent air bells is to bang the tank down fairly hard a couple of times onto a folded towel or similar, just after first filling. This is processing 101.

    Rinse or stop bath? Makes no difference really, only to the lifespan of the fixer.

    If you're talking about getting gas blisters from mixing developer and stop bath, then you're using far too strong a solution of stop bath!
    And in over 50 years of developing film, I've never seen gas blistering on any film.

    P.S. the extra overhang, ridge or lip on a plastic spiral is more likely to trap air than the cleaner lines of a stainless spiral. So if you are finding air bells an issue, ditch the plastic tank and get a stainless one. And knock it down on the bench a couple of times after each agitation.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2021
  2. The greatest thing about film photography is that it made the move to Digital so easy. I still get what I want in one, two, maybe three exposures on my dslrs when others make a thousand exposures to get a keeper. The first thing I did when I bought my two dslrs was to put gaffer's tape over their rear screens in 2007.
     
  3. There is the science of photography, and there is the art.

    Composition and framing, along with subject selection are important parts of the art.

    For me, the science was always more fun, though, and with film you are closer to the science.
    With digital, there is nothing like watching the print appear after you put the paper in
    the developer. (Watching paper come out of an inkjet printer is not at all the same.)

    Even if you are not up to wet printing, you should think about developing your
    own black and white film. There are enough C41 labs around, it is fine to use
    them, and even with XP-2 if you are in the mood for that.)

    It is hard to find good labs for black and white film developing, and it is pretty easy
    and affordable to do at home. You don't even need a dark room, as a changing
    bag is just fine. As above, it is important to understand film exposure looking at
    actual film. Even if they scan it for you, you should still look at the negatives.
    There should be some areas that are close to clear, others that are pretty dark.
    If all is almost clear, or all is almost dark, exposure is off, though you might
    still get scans out of them.

    XP-2 negatives are somewhat harder to understand looking at them. As well as I know
    (I don't use it so much), properly exposed negative look underexposed if you are used
    to other films.

    If you are only interested in the art of photography, not much reason to go for film.
    But if you like the science, then yes. It is not all that expensive as hobbies go.
     
  4. My advice is to keep it simple. Use one camera and one lens, 45-55mm. One film. Skip the Adams books. His advice not suitable for roll film. For basics, the Kodak book How to Make Better Pictures. The last version of the Leica Manual covers almost all aspects of photography, with excellent darkroom section by David Vestal. Owning a Leica is not required. There is a book that I would strongly recommend, but not near my books and having a Biden moment and canโ€™t remember author or title. Has famous pic of photographer with lens and viewfinder as eyes.
     

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