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How do you carry an 800mm f/8 ?


samuel_lipoff

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<p>I have an ED-Nikkor 800mm f/8 lens head and the associated AU-1 focusing unit. Together, they weigh about 12 pounds, are about 5 1/2 inches in diameter, and are almost 28 inches long. Unfortunately I cannot pull the lens head off of the focusing unit (I believe the technical explanation is that they are smushed together!), so it cannot be shortened for travel. Also, one of the two strap lugs on the AU-1 focusing unit is missing. I could drill some holes and put in another lug, but for obvious reasons I'm reluctant to do so.</p>

<p>I've had this unit for about a year, but so far I have only used it within very short walking distance of my car. I think it's time that I find some sort of case that makes it possible to carry this around, other than cradling it in my arms in front of me. For travel, I'm sure I can place it in a Pelican-type case, but what about when I want to walk somewhere with it? </p>

<p>The Canon 800mm f/5.6 is one of the longest lenses produced today, but it is not even 19 inches long, and I haven't found any modern "Long Lens Bags" that will fit this lens. The backpacks designed for 600/4s are much too short. It looks like some tripod cases (such as Think Tank's "Big Bazooka") would fit it. Maybe some telescope cases would fit it as well?</p>

<p>For anyone who has an 800/8 or similarly long and heavy lens . . . how do you carry it? What about your tripod, camera and accessories?</p>

 

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<p>I have the 600mm f/5.6 ED + AU-1 focusing unit (about 23 inches long). So far, I've just carried it wrapped in a towel in a duffel bag. I keep planning to shop at Sears for a suitably sized tool box, to which I would add padded plywood support brackets, but haven't gotten around to it.</p>

<p>I use the lens with a D300 after solving the issues discussed in this thread: <a href="../nikon-camera-forum/00Rytb">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Rytb</a>. Gitzo Series 5 tripod and Wimberley head. I don't use it as often as I might otherwise because it's a beast to focus. The weight of the camera and the leverage it puts on the whole setup makes the focusing ring bind. It needs a little upward pressure on the camera to relieve the stress while focusing. This probably would be cured by the optional cradle that was available for the AU-1, but I haven't been able to find one yet.</p>

<p>My lens is very sharp, especially stopped down a notch or two. It's sharper with a filter in the drawer than without. I use a Nikon L1A.</p>

<p>What camera are you using, and how do you like the results?</p>

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<p>I have the 800/8 ED Nikkor head and the AU-1 focusign adapter. Since this lens is NOT a telephoto design, it becomes as physically long as its focal length. I usually hoist it up and carry it over my shoulder, with camera attached. My assistant will carry the tripod.</p>

<p>For tripod support, you need the best there is. Normally I put the lens on a heavy-duty Sachtler ENG 2 CF HD with Video 20 fluid head. I haven't noticed any binding to occur with the AU-1 adapter, but if you combine the lens head with the older CU (the one with a big, knurled ring in front), binding will occur when a heavy camera is mounted and I believe that's the reason for CU being replaced by AU-1 after a short while.</p>

<p>Consider yourself lucky if you have the ED version of the 800 mm lens head. Very few, probably < 100 units, were made and the optical performance is far superior to the 800/8 ED-IF that replaced it after a short prtoduction run.</p>

<p>A final tidbit of information is that you should not use the internal filter when such very long lenses are combined with DSLRs, since the risk of getting a hot spot increases substantially. For example, the 1200 ED-IF on a D3 can deliver a very intense hot spot, in fact ruining the entire picture, in some situations. Removing the filter in the rear drawer usually helps mitigate the issue.</p>

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<p>Have you looked at a nylon bag that carries a folding chair? You could take two of them, find a decent sewing shop (think of the place that makes sails for sailboats...?) and see if they can put two of them together. Most of the nylon chair bags have carrying straps attached....just one idea.</p>

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<p >Ah ha! An assistant! That's how I should carry the 800/8. =)</p>

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<p >I do indeed have the ED version of the 800mm lens head (SN 850070) and consider myself extremely lucky to have one . . . and even more so given the pittance that I paid for it on eBay!</p>

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<p >Other than the handling issues, it seems to be a really terrific lens. I am using it on my Nikon D700 and it mounts just fine, as well as on my D70. I know the manual says it shouldn't work, but the proof is in the pudding. I didn't have to file the aperture lever. The focusing ring is quite stiff, but I don't think it binds any further when the camera is mounted.</p>

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<p >I'm using it on a Benro C298M8 tripod (fairly beefy ---http://www.benro.com/products_details_C-298M8.html) and the Acratech GP Ballhead (<a href="http://acratech.net/product.php?productid=69">http://acratech.net/product.php?productid=69</a>). I keep meaning to get the Manfrotto 359 Long Lens Support <a href="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/accessories/359.shtml">http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/accessories/359.shtml</a>). With this combination I've gotten sharp photos as low as 1/200 sec in both the "ballhead" and "gimbal" configurations. How much better could I do with a better mounting solution? I notice that even when I let go of the assembly and have zoomed into 100% on LiveView it still shakes around, making LiveView very difficult to use for manual focus. On the other hand, on a bright day I've pulled the camera firmly against my face, put a dark cloth over my head and taken some nice pictures by focusing through the viewfinder.</p>

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<p >I haven't tried experimenting with the internal filter in place vs. not in place, but I will. I've just left it in place and haven't observed any hotspots, although the vingetting control might be compensating for that. I have also put a full-set of K-rings on this lens to get a closer minimum focusing distance for small birds and the quality seems very nice indeed.</p>

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<p >I hate to even ask . . . but have you tried using teleconverters with this lens?</p>

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<p >I don't have much application for an 800mm lens, but using it from time to time is a joy and I hope will open up the occasional unique perspective! It is also definitely a conversation piece.</p>

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<p ><img src="http://people.fas.harvard.edu/~lipoff/files/29_Fall_2009_11.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="473" /></p>

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Nikon D700 & Nikkor 800m f/8 ED lens head on AU-1 focusing Unit, 1/1250 sec, ISO 1600, f/11.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>"folding chair bags is that they tend to be rather flimsily made"</p>

<p>Nylon is fairly strong stuff. Military jets use parachute cord (made from Nylon) to hold drag parachutes firm at 150+ mph, so I don't think lugging a lens will reach that type of speed....but then again?</p>

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<p>"... as low as 1/200 sec" - you're joking, yes? I shoot at 1/4 sec or slower ....</p>

<p>I don't use TCs on this lens since I can deploy either the 1200/11 ED-IF or the 360-1200/11 instead if I need more reach.</p>

<p>I have no problems mounting the 800ED/AU-1 on any Nikon body so far. A CPU-modification (programmed as type G) helps it become coompatible with any current Nikon. I have used the lens with the entire model range from D40x to D3X, it mounts and meters on all of them.</p>

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<p>Jerry I'm not commenting on the strength of nylon as a material, I'm commenting on the strength of the stitching and strap attachments of a mass-produced bag that was designed to hold a <5 lb folding chair. Sure, nylon is strong, but the Air Force doesn't source it's parachutes from Target or Walmart.</p>
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<p>I carry my 1200mm f/11 ED and attached AU-1 focusing unit in a Hakuba padded tripod bag -- fits just about perfectly. Like its 800mm ED & 600mm ED counterparts, the 1200mm ED covers the 6x6 Bronica frame (with the separate focusing unit made for Bronica S2 & EC series) on my EC-TL as well as working well with my Nikon F2 and D200. Very sharp but a poor choice on windy days.</p>
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<p>

<p>I stopped by one of my local camera stores today and found that the Think Tank Big Bazooka <br>

(http://www.thinktankphoto.com/products/big-bazooka-tripod-case.aspx) fits the 800/8 ED + AU-1 like a glove. Just remember to focus the lens to infinity --- when it is at close focus, it will be too long to fit!</p>

<p>I haven't tried any exposures as short as 1/4 sec with this lens (although is it possible at speeds that slow some vibrations would damp out?) but I did notice what seemed to be shake occurring in some shots at 1/200 and below. While I was at Hunt's this afternoon I did pickup the Manfrotto 359 Long Lens Support, so we'll see if that makes any difference.</p>

<p>I don't think I can afford a Sachtler Video 20 fluid head, but I could afford a Wimberly gimbal-type head, Burzynski ballhead, or the Acra Swiss C1 Cube / Photo Clam Multiflex Cube. Would any of those make a difference? I've been very happy with the Acratech GP ballhead, but there's obviously nohting else I carry that stresses the tripod system nearly as much as a 12 lb, 28 inch long lens with a 3 lb camera hanging off the end!</p>

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<p>A second tripod [or a monopod] as a support will make a difference, but of course leads to the entire setup being even more unwieldly. A gimbal-type head will allow you to navigate the lens better than does a ball head, but the susceptibility to vibration will remain.</p>

<p>Extreme lenses like the 800 (not to speak of the 1200), which aren't shortened telephoto designs and thus their physical and focal lengths coincide, are true troublemakers on a tripod. Their length makes them resonate like organ pipes, and they learn you that a sturdy tripod on its own is inadequate as support, because they need <strong>dampening</strong> more than the rigidity provided by normal tripod heads. That's why I always shoot these lenses on a heavy-duty fluid head. Unfortunately, a fluid head up to the task is very expensive. Quality comes at a commensurate price, it's that simple really.</p>

<p>If you need to shoot at slow shutter speeds (in my country, low light levels persist thought half the year so my normal exposures with the 800 are always in the "danger zone" 1-1/60 sec or even slower), then the fluid head is a must. I <em>can</em> get 1/125 to 1/200 sec exposures during mid day in summer, but these light conditions aren't optimal for my subjects.</p><div>00WdsQ-250791584.jpg.3e1fbc9e0561eb4839f840c28caf0f7b.jpg</div>

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