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How do I use my old Sekonic light meter?


cassandra_thomas

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Model numbers or names would certainly help, but here's a kind of general starting point. First of all, you need to find on the dial where you set the ASA (ISO) speed of the film. Do that, and then note that there is a meter needle which moves when you point the meter at a bright light, and that when you turn the main dial, there will be a second, movable needle, which you can line up over the meter needle. When you do that, you'll see that the dial indicates an exposure value, and shows a number of shutter speed/aperture combinations that will satisfy that exposure value. Depending on your needs or tastes, you can choose any one of those combinations for the correct exposure. Some of the old Sekonic meters have two or three different ranges, depending on the light level. My old selenium-cell Auto Leader had a lid over the first sensor, and a second sensor that flipped up from the back. You had to set the range on the dial. I have a later CDS cell one that has two ranges, selected with a little lever, but no obvious lid that opens. On that one the range of the dial changes when you shift the lever.

 

Remember that most of these meters are averaging meters - they "see" a very wide view. If you're using a telephoto lens and aiming it into the woods, your meter may see much more sky than the camera does, and you'll have to compensate.

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Mathew: I press the button in the middle to have the meter read the lighted subject. The needle moves. (I've already set the ASA.) There is an arrow that says "EV," which moves with the large dial. Is this the one you speak of? Finaly at the bottom there are the F/shutter reads with a red bar marked CINE.
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You can ignore the CINE reading, which is for setting movie cameras. What you want is the pairs of f-stops and shutter speeds which line up when you have turned the dial to match the EV bar to the meter needle. As you turn the dial, those two scales should move relative to each other. When the dial is matched to the needle, you will be set at a specific EV or exposure value, and that recommended exposure can be achieved by using any of the pairs of shutter speeds and apertures that appear on the dial. I'm away from home so I can't look at an old Sekonic to see what EV corresponds to what readings, but if F5.6 and 125 (meaning 1/125 shutter speed) are together, for example, you can use this setting, or F4 and 250, F2.8 and 500, F8 and 60, etc. depending on whether you wish to maximize shutter speed, or control depth of field.

 

Here's a link to the instructions for an older "Auto Leader" meter. The later battery operated meter I have works on the same principles with different details, but this should give you a pretty good idea of how it is done.

 

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/sekonic_l-38/sekonic-splash.htm

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Check www.sekonic.com for the list of current models--perhaps yours is an earlier version? Just be aware that a "working" meter isn't necessarily an "accurate" meter. That can only be nailed by comparing yours to one that's bang on. If your oldie isn't on the money(i.e.,"linear")at most speed/stop points(elderly selenium cell meters typically fail at low and high readings first), then I'd retire it and get a new cheapo selenium form Sekonic.It's a false economy to do otherwise.
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