Home Developing from a Disposable Camera?

<p>I like experimentation, but if I can get some input from others prior to me spending money, time, etc. then that would be great. I have a Fujifilm disposable camera that is loaded with Superia X-Tra 400 35mm film. I am guessing that the process for this would be C-41, however I wanted to see if I could develop this at home, cross-processing it as black and white.<br>

<br />I've been developing Tri-X 400 film in Caffenol C-H and getting good results. If I were to do the same with the Superia X-Tra, would my negatives come out as b&w? Would they come out at all? </p>

<p>Use the site search function for " cross processing ". Cross processing usually refers to processing C41 in E6 or E6 in C41 but C41 in B&W has been done<br>

http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00UV8Z .</p>

<p>It will be grainy, dense and B&W. I've processed Kodak Gold 200 and that's what I got. And you will have to open the disposable camera in a change bag and load it in there as well, I'm pretty sure. So in a word, yes, you can do it. I have no idea what the times and temps would be for this, which is why my negs were dense I suppose, as I just went w/ a good guess. People seem to get really good results using Acufine or Diafine, as they will keep the grain under control. I had better results developing Tri-X in Dektol. Looked like lith film it was so contrasty. Very nice, but you don't want to do that w/ a portrait :)</p>

<p>Actually, you can open the disposable camera in the light, which I've done several times just out of curiosity: just pry it open where you see the tabs that lock it closed (often these are underneath the label, so you'll need to peel it off around the edges). You generally need a thin, flat screwdriver to pry the tabs apart.</p>

<p>You don't need to worry about a changing bag because you'll find the film all rolled up in a normal, albeit minimally labeled, film can: the film starts out unwound and winds into the can as you shoot, which is why they don't ever rewind at the end.</p>

<p>But this whole process would be much more enjoyable, in my opinion, if you used those Ilford true B&W disposable cameras (loaded with 400 speed HP5+ film, I think).</p>

<p><em>"I have no idea what the times and temps would be for this, which is why my negs were dense I suppose, as I just went w/ a good guess."</em><br>

<em>@</em>Steve..how much time did you develop the Kodak Gold for in the Caffenol C? For my Tri-X, I develop using the Caffenol C-H recipe, and generally develop 12 initial turns, then 2 cycles at the top of every minute for anywhere between 13 1/2 to 17 minutes. I get dense negs too, but i like them that way. I'd assume the times would be much different for a C-41 film. </p>

<p>Also, the 27 exposures are from a regular 24 exposure roll, but exposed end to end as it is loaded in the dark. I have taken out the cartridge and sent it in the normal way, but not tried doing it at home.<br>

You can do home C41. Probably a better idea than trying it in B&W developer.</p>

I have reloaded single use cameras with Tri-X and Fuji Neopan black and white film. It's lots of fun.

 

But there are some things to know...

 

1) the film cartridge has ridges/teeth cut into it. A normal roll won't work. You have to get the original back from the lab or

ask them for discards and use that. The new film has to be taped to the spool inside.

 

2) the film is unrolled and loaded into a compartment in the camera. The film then rolls back into the cartridge as the

camera is used. You have to do this in a darkroom or dark bag and snap the camera back together before allowing it into

the light.

 

3) those flashes will shock the crap out of you if you touch the wrong thing.