Jump to content

Hexar RF vert & inf RF adjustment. Here's how.


tonyk

Recommended Posts

<html>

<head>

<title>Untitled Document</title>

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-

1">

</head>

 

<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">

<p><img src="http://www.tk-photo.com/images/hexar-adj.jpg" width="493"

height="338">

</p>

<p>The above drawing shows the adjustment of the rangefinder on a

Konica Hexar

RF. This shows how to completely (vertical and infinity) adjust the

rangefinder

on this camera. I've been looking around the web for information

regarding Vertical

alignment adjustment, but could not find any details on it. So, after

taking

the plunge and purchasing one, I found that my infinity alignment was

right

on (with both my Summicron 50/2 and Hexanon 50/2), but my vertical

alignment

was slightly off. It bugged the living stuffing out of me, so I just

took out

the adjustment plug and went for it. Sorry for the quality of the

above drawing,

but it was the best I can do at 2am in the morning. Basically,

looking down

into the adjustment hole (lens facing away from you), there is the

toothed wheel

that is attached to the notched frame on the camera. I have read that

people

have been able to adjust infinity alignment here, but it really is

the vertical

alignment adjustment. Pick a rectangular object on a wall not too far

away (light

switch is fine). With the camera on a tripod and at about the same

height as

this object, focus on the corner so that when out of focus, you can

see the

double images of the rectangle. Use whatever tool you need to to move

the toothed

wheel either away from you (lowers the focusing patch) or towards you

(raises

the focusing patch) until the two double images are at the same

height. Focus

the object in and out of focus will confirm this. Next, you need to

adjust the

infinity focus, as messing with the vertical alignment will probably

affect

the infinity alignment. With your trusty 50mm (or whatever you have)

M lens

mounted, go ouside at night or day and focus on a distant object (I

chose a

bright star, but you can choose a distant mountain top (peak or

antenna). At

infinity (on the lens), the double image of your distant object

should line

up in the rangefinder. If it does, then close up the adjustment hole

and go

take pictures. If not, then you'll need to get a small flat-head

screwdriver

and adjust the screw to the upper right of the toothed wheel. When

looking down,

it is the screw that seems to have a "C" retaining clip on

it. It

appears to be just on the left of a condenser lens of some sort (on

the rangefinder).

Tightening the screw (clockwise) will move the focus patch to the

left, while

loosening (counterclockwise) the screw moves the focus patch to the

right. After

your best adjustment, make sure that infinity lines up by focusing

once on your

distant object the normal way, upside down, vertically, and upside

down vertically

(basically, turning the camera 90 degrees until a complete circle is

made, while

focusing in and out to infinity). By doing this, you can make sure

that the

infinity alignment is correct.</p>

<p>Needless to say, do this at your own risk. This worked for me and I

am just

informing the general public of my adjustment method. I am not

responsible for

anything YOU do to YOUR camera. </p>

<p>I just had the pleasure of using this camera the next day for a test

and this

is what I got:</p>

<p><img src="http://www.tk-photo.com/images/hexar-tree.jpg" width="400"

height="608"></p>

<p>All images were scanned with a Nikon LS-1000 film scanner at 2700

dpi. The

images were then reduced in resolution and saved in jpg form.</p>

<p>This is an enlargement of the "a" in "Argentina"

on the

sign, in the middle of the photo.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.tk-photo.com/images/a.jpg" width="400" height=

"400"></p>

<p>This is also an enlargement from the photo. It shows a bundle of dry

pine needles

just underneath the word "Bolivia" on the sign.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.tk-photo.com/images/twig.jpg" width="400"

height="388"></p>

<p>The picture was taken with the vertically/infinity aligned Hexar RF

with a

Black Wetzlar Summicron 50/2 at the minimum distance of just under

0.7m. I focused

on the captical "A" in Argentina and then re-framed the

picture to

put the sign in the middle of the frame.</p>

<p>Finally, a quick-draw M travel camera I can live with.</p>

<p>Good Luck.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>TonyK</p>

<p> </p>

<p> </p>

</body>

</html>

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good info for Hexar owners - if you have an out of sync body and want to match it to Leica specs this will be useful. However to me the image looks soft - it's not a very high enlargment of the letter and with a good lens like a summicron it should be a lot, lot sharper - I suggest you do some more tests and or put a ground glass screen at the film plane and compare the magnified image on a high powered loupe with the RF at several distances
Link to comment
Share on other sites

CAUTION: ERRONEOUS INFO ALERT! The toothed wheel *is* for adjusting the infinity alignment--ONLY, *not* the vertical alignment, although undue pressure on the assembly can disturb the vertical alignment. The small screw by the condensor lens is to adjust the focus plane of the secondary image to the same virtual distance as the primary viewfinder image. *Do NOT* touch that screw! The vertical alignment of the Hexar's RF has to be done with the top plate removed, as it involves raising/lowering an entire subassembly. This info came straight from a very helpful Konica tech back when I got my Hexar.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK.

 

Jay may have a point, but it worked for me. Also, before the

adjustment on my camera, the image on the RF patch seemed smaller than

image on the RF itself. This solved it for me. Your mileage may

vary.

 

As for the chromatic aberation fringes on the letter "a", it's the

conversion from a 2700 dpi / 25.7mb photoshop file to a 130K JPG file

that did it. It actually is very sharp in the original file.

Although this is not a big magnification, it is enough that at 2700

dpi (original image), pixelation starts to be noticeable at the edges

(limits of the scan). That is why I did not make any further

magnifications, as it would really tell you nothing.

 

As for the unclear sketch. Sorry, but these are just quick notes that

I took at the time. The upper left side shows the camera. The

"Adjustment Open" should actually be the "Adjustment Opening". There

is a small plastic cap there. Inside looks like the area around the

dashed circle. Once the cap is removed, there should be no problem

identifying the parts.

 

I was going to test the Hexar RF side by side with my M2 for

comparison, but instead, during this excursion, I compared it to a

Contax G2 (with a Zeiss 45mm f2). The slides from both cameras seemed

equally sharp under high magnification on a lightbox and scanned.

 

I still really like this camera. Sometimes you don't want to hand

meter everything. I took some neat street fair photos with it

recently and saw some gentleman there removing his M6 from his soft

case and taking the photo. Needless to say, I was there and gone

before he could even start focusing. Yes, I know, sometimes you want

to take your time for a photo. That's why I have my M2 for. It's

strange... As I get older and lazier, the less I want to carry for

the usual "out and about".

 

T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...