Help, zoom stuck on Vivitar Series1 70-210 (Kiron)

I recently bought a (1st series Kiron) Vivitar Series1 70-210mm telemacro for use with my Nikon D40 and

I've been having lots of fun with it.

 

However yesterday when I was out taking photos at a soccer game the zoom ring got stuck 70mm and

won't pull back anymore. Also I can only focus from 20ft to infinity, won't turn lower. Its jammed up

pretty good.

 

Is this something I might be able to fix myself or is it one for the scrap heap? I don't think it's worth

sending out to be fixed, there's plenty of them on eBay for less than $75 shipped.

 

Thanks,

Skye

Check to see if the lens got inadvertently put into macro mode - when it's in that mode, the zoom ring won't move. If it did, twist the ring just in front of the mount to move the red dot away from the macro indicator.

<p>Huh, I didn't even know that red dot was supposed to move. I guess it must, because

this photo shows it in front of the yellow line, and mine's in front of the white line.

 

<p>Are you supposed to push the white button the side and twist the red-dot ring? Because

mine doesn't budge at all.

 

<p><img src="http://glennview.com/jpgs/35mm/nikon/vivitarzoom/big_2.jpg">

I have the exact same lens and had a similar problem. To put the lens in macro mode pull the zoom ring all the way back toward the camera body make sure it is snug at this extreme. Once you are there push in the white button and align the word macro with the red dot. You are now in macro mode and will mainly focus using the zoom (you can still make minor focus adjustments using the focus ring). To take it out of macro do the exact same thing. Pull the zoom back to the camera body push the white button and turn it so that the white line is aligned with the red dot. Try this. It is also possible to accidentally put it into macro mode when changing out the lens as the white button is on the grip to twist the the lens off. Don't scrap the lens, it is a great piece of glass. There is better out there for sure (for higher prices) but these lenses are classics and really are from an era we will probably never see again...Hope this helps.

Thanks for the instructions, Trevor.

 

Apparently mine is currently NOT in macro mode (dot aligned with white line) but the zoom

ring is stuck all the way forward (70mm). Something's messed up for sure. Bummer, I'll keep

poking at it while I watch TV maybe it will come unstuck.

Well after a few hours of wiggling it came unstuck, yay! I'll just leave it on 210mm and stay

away from the other end of the zoom I guess. Can't expect too much from a $35 eBay lens.

 

Thanks

The service manual for this lens can be found here....

Gotta keep these old treasures alive!

http://www.advancedconcepts.biz/70_210manual/servicemanualvivkino70_210.pdf

Wow thanks for the service manual! Maybe I can figure out what putting it into macro mode

is supposed to accomplish now, I can't tell any difference other than locking the zoom ring.

 

Here's a few photos I've taken with the beast:

 

http://flickr.com/photos/iamskye/tags/vivitarseries170210mm/

 

I'm going to try it out at a bicycle race "Tour de Gastown" next week.

Regarding Viv S-1 glass. There are numerous (8) Series 1, 70-210 lenses. However, for the sake of discussion, we will deal with the first three. The following editions are nothing to seriously consider, so we will concentrate on the first three editions, which are the good one's. The 4th & 5th editions are also 2.8-4 variable aperture model's, but lacking in construction quality (Cosina built). Due to the fact that the third one is a variable aperture lens, (2.8-4) it will be somewhat sharper than a fixed aperture lenses. It is much easier to design and build a quality variable aperture lens. The first edition was designed by Vivitar (Ellis Betensky had a hand in it) and built by Kiron. (67mm filter) It is a professional caliber lens, with a 1:2 macro feature built into it. It was the first zoom, designed with the aid of computers, that truly rivaled the OEM lenses of the time. That was in "76."

 

The second edition (my personal favorite) was built by Tokina, per, Vivitars specs. It too, is a fixed 3.5 aperture, but smaller, lighter and sharper. (62mm filter size). I really like it because of the fixed 3.5 aperture which is nice for focusing in dim light and long range flash work. However, not a true macro, 1:4 life size.

 

The third edition was made by Komine, and like the first two, is very well built. It is a 2.8-4 variable aperture lens, and the sharpest of the bunch. It has 1:2.5 life size macro from 100-210mm's, with a working distance of about two feet. Which can be quite useful. Can you see a discernible difference in slides taken with either one of them? No! Don't get caught up in bench tests. Any of the first three editions will give you professional-publishable images. I really like this lens, and in time may become my favorite.

 

Personally, I recommend the second or third edition of the line. I have and use all three of the first editions, and can highly recommend any one of them. Superb optics and construction.

 

If you have anymore questions about the Vivitar or Kiron lenses, or want more detailed information on a particular lens, please don't hesitate to ask. Are you aware of the Viv S-1 28-90 or the Kiron 28-85, Kiron 28-105 and the phenomenal Kiron 105 macro lens? As for Kiron glass, well that's another discussion.........

 

 

 

Kiron Kid

Skye, I'm thinking of upgrading to Nikon D40 and using my 1st series Kiron) Vivitar Series1 70-210mm telemacro on it. Did you run into any mounting, focus, light metering, etc. problems on your setup?

Curt, the lens mounts fine on the D40 but it is full manual, no automatic metering or focus.

Sky, How then do you determine the correct f/ and shutter speed? Do you focus through the lense onto the view screen on the body and use a seperate light meter?

I do what people did for 100+ years before metering electronics were available - learn what conditions suit what settings. It has helped my photography greatly to have this practice and quickly know what ballpark settings to use based on conditions, vision, etc. Especially with all-manual off camera strobe situations.

 

This method is even easier to learn now with the instant feedback of digicam histograms, you can "chimp" the settings quickly. A good place to start is with the "sunny 16" rule, google it.

 

Here's some of what's possible:

 

Got it! Thanks Skye.