Help with Macro setup using Nikon D200

I'm fairly new to macro photography and wondered if anyone could comment or

improve my current setup. I'm getting some pretty good results but struggling a bit

to get more of the subject in focus.

 

1. Lens used - Tamron SP DI 90mm 2.8 macro

2. Mainly shoot RAW and keep aperture in the F11-F16 range (anything higher

and I'm getting towards defraction.

3. Use tripod with cable release & Mirror Up to avoid camera shake

4. ISO is usually in the 100-400 range, depending on light available

 

My issue is, anything bigger than say a bee, and I struggle to get everything in

focus, even with a higher F-stop.

 

Also, any tips on which metering mode to use with Macro? At the moment I'm

flitting between Matrix & Spot, as I've heard centre weighted isn't that great on the

D200.

 

any help much appreciated.<div></div>

Hi Pete

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It sounds like you're doing most things right. Matrix metering will be fine but it can still be fooled if you're subject has a particularly unusual tonal range - it's something you get a feel for with experience. Fill-in flash can be very useful for some subjects as it helps to create more even lighting, but be aware that some shiny, reflective subjects may look unnatural when flash is used.

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As far as focusing is concerned, at close working distances, depth of field becomes very small and to avoid diffraction, you're pretty much limited to the apertures you mention. To get around this, you have three main options.

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For completely static subjects, you can take a sequence of images, moving the plain of focus slightly each time. You then have to create a composite image by merging your sequence to produce a final picture with a wider in-focus area than could have been possible normally. I've never done this myself and others will no doubt be able to provide more advice and information on this technique.

<p>

The second method, and the one most suitable for active, living subjects such as your bee, is to use the plain of focus to best advantage. You do this by aligning the subject so that as much of it as possible, or at least the most important elements of it, coincide with the plain of focus. It's quite a trick to compose your subjects this way, but with practice it's possible to give the illusion of considerable depth of field. I can't over-emphasize how important it is to get the plain of focus in exactly the right position to achieve the best result. At close range your depth of field may be millimeters, so precision is everything.

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The third solution is to employ a lens that allows tilts, which allows you to move the plain of focus to coincide with your subject - not something that's possible with your current set-up.

<p>

Traditionally, most people, quite sensibly, rely on a tripod for macro work. I shoot insects and find it better to use the camera hand-held and rely on its auto focusing system to get the subject into focus. If you're interested, I've written a faq on my website about the technique I use:

<p>

<a href="http://www.malcolmfarrowphotography.com/articles/insect-photography-faq.html"

>Insect photography FAQ</a>

<p>

Hope this is helpful.

Do you really get inusable images at very small apertures? Have you already

checked if f32 gives you inusable images? Many of them are usable to me.

 

About metering, I have set on the camera the "highlight" alarm "on" (I don`t

remember the actual name of this feature) and the Histogram. I usually made a

first "working shot" in whatever the metering mode, after that I like to check at the

camera screen the out-of-range highlights and the histogram. If there is something

wrong, I compensate the flash and/or the camera`s exposure. Looking at your

image, highlights are clearly out; with this highlight alarm feature you can check

them easily (I`m sorry I cannot remember if the D200 support this feature).

 

In my experience it`s very difficult to have a perfect exposure at the first chance in

macro; if you can`t check the exposure, I suggest you to use center weighted

mode to have a better exposed subject.

I use an incident meter and compensate for bellows factor. Works for view camera, 35, digi, film, everthing. Last project was a 135mm lens on a bellows mounted on a D40 Nikon. The meter will not operate. Trusty Sekonic studio DeLux gave perfect exposures

 

Reflected meters underexpose bright subjects and overexpose darks and you have to guess how much to compensate. Your bee pic flower has blown white flower from the dark leaves being overexposed.

I use a tripod 100% of the time. I use manual focus 99.5% of the time even with AF macro lenses. Your eye often results in a more accurate focus than the AF point you select. Use your depth of field preview button to see the depth of field for the f stop you have chosen. I do not think I have ever used spot metering. Where did you hear about that statement about CW metering? If lighting is tricky I would use CW over matrix metering. You can set the size of the center weight by using one of the custom settings. If your exposure is off, it is probably because stray light is entering thru the uncovered viewfinder during mirror up or self timer activation.

 

Regarding defraction, test out your lens using a subject like a purple coneflower bud. Get pretty close and take a series of shots at different f stops and see when you get defraction. Make sure lighting is constant.

 

If you are in close, you will not get everything sharp. The test above will prove that too you. The range of focus is based on lens physics. It is pretty narrow. Joe Smith

Get a Coolpix 990. The macro mode isn't even zoomed in.

 

http://www.jerryschuler.com/Nikon990/NIKON20080527_014990.JPG

All the light, small apertures and tripod won't give you as much depth of field as some

small subjects require. Here's a link to an imaging stacking program that can give really

amazing results.

 

http://hadleyweb.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CZM/News.htm

I just wanted to thank you all for your suggestions.

 

Malcolm - I like your plain of focus idea and will give that a try. I'll also stick with the tripod rather than hand-hold. I'm not steady enough..;-)

 

Jose - I haven't tried apertures as small as F32, and will certainly give that a go too. So far I've only used the on-board flash and will also try with my SB-600. I guess I'll need to at f-stops as small as f32..I'll also give centre weighted a go.

 

Jerry - Suggesting a different camera is a daft idea..;-) I'm guessing you weren't being serious.

 

Conrad - thanks for the link

Pete,

I was serious. I can out do any macros of DSLRs with my 990 and my Raynox Microscopic lens. If your serious about getting a good Macro shot use the right camera.

 

Guess how small this sand is.

 

http://www.jerryschuler.com/Nikon990/DSCN1169.JPG<div></div>

Pete, I do need to say that your shot of the bee is incredibly good. I can sit around flowers all day and not get a shot like that. Or if I get the oppertunity, I probably won't be ready for the shot.

The only insects I find is what crawls out of the drain pipes in the middle of the night.

Thanks Jerry, that's kind of you to say so. I tried again yesterday and I think I'm getting there now. It seems my Tamron does well at the smaller F-stops, especially at very close distances. Have a look at these new ones. The colours look a bit over the top but it was a really sunny evening and they really were like that.

and another.

Pete, I am attaching one or two images I took with my 200mm Nikon f 4.0 AF macro lens, focused manually. I used flash to light the bee on the coneflower bud. F stop was f 10. Camera was a D 300 on a tripod. Check out the depth of field at f 10. Joe Smith

Here are the images I tried to poast in my last post. Joe Smith<div></div>

Here is the second image. Joe Smith<div></div>

Hi Joseph. Those 2 are gorgeous pics. How far away was the lens to the subject? You have a real advantage over me, as my Tamron is only 90mm. With most of my bug shots I am only a few inches away, so getting everything sharp at F10 would be near on impossible.

Pete, I am guessing that I was about one foot away from the flower when I took the pictures. The longer focal length of a 200mm macro lens allows you to be farther away from the subject. The greater working distance also can give you control over your backgrounds. Controling backgrounds is critical in making good macro shots. Joe Smith

Thanks Joseph, I understand the benefits of controling the background, but unfortunately I'm limited in terms of distance as I only have a 90mm. This means I have to get a lot closer and shoot with smaller apertures such as F10-16 etc, if I want everything in sharp focus.