Hassy - a pain to use for "dynamic" photos??

I currently have a 501 CM +80mm lens. For travel photography, I hand-

hold it 99% of the time and seem to achieve acceptably sharp results.

However, 2 things about the set-up which I don't like are:

 

1) The mirror-slap ... surely, this must be diminishing some

sharpness even at 1/125 or 1/250th?

 

2) And in particular, I find good composition and fast focusing

extremely difficult to achieve with my head bent un-naturally over

the foldable focusing hood and non-microprism screen, especially when

photographing people close-up from approx 4-5 feet away. As a result,

many of my photos of people often lack any "dynamic edge" to them (I

end up with people looking posed, centred in the middle of my

photos). Perhaps a PM45 prism and microprism/split-image screen would

be the solution, despite the substantial increase in weight and bulk?

 

However, I'm also looking for alternative cameras to replace the

Blad, and have 2 in mind (note, I do NOT need a big system with

accessories):

 

1) The Mamiya 7 sounds ideal to faciliate composition and for hand-

hold photography (I've used Leica M's for years too, hence explaining

my tendency to try to always hand-hold the Blad!!). However, does

anyone know if the Mamiya 7's rangefinder misalignments occur due to

not protecting the camera properly, or do they "just tend to happen"?

Also, I presume film flatness is as good on the Mamiya as I enjoy the

Blad film backs?

 

2) Any thoughts on the (similarly vibration-free) Rolleiflex 2.8FX as

a more user-friendly travel camera to the Blad 501 CM?

 

Many thanks indeed for your help!

I think there probably is some vibration from the mirror. My hand-held Hasselblad shots looked very nice until you got up close to them, whereas my handheld shots from Rolleis and Mamiya TLRs retained their sharpness even at low speeds (say 1/30)

 

If I still had one, I'd certainly keep a 'blad on a tripod for most work, but that goes for all MF SLRs - those 6x6 mirrors must build up some considerable inertia as they whizz out of the light path.

Try a sports finder. For $15 you can get the one that mounts on the side of the camera and use MLU. The only drawback is you have to zone focus. For about $100 you can get the prism version that allows focusing if you don't use MLU.

<P>

I think the sports finder is better than the PM45 because you can see outside the frame and it does not add 2 pounds to the camera. If you need more precise framing or focus pop open the waist level.

Jon,

 

I found the PME45 prism finder to "speed-up" my photography with the 'Blad. Minimally, composing and focusing speed has improved. YMMV. As Barry pointed out, the prism finder does add weight.

 

I have not noticed any vibration problems caused by mirror slap at speeds above 1/60s. I sort of believe that hand-holding provides some sort of damping which you would not get with the camera on a tripod. For the latter, I always pre-release the mirror.

 

-Nick

If your shooting outside alot, the DOF range on the lens can be utilized alot to

speed your shooting up. 1/125th and 1/250th shouldn't really be effected, as

far as sharpness goes, by the mirror slap. I regularly shoot at 1/30 handheld

with an RB with NO ill effects at all. The prism will also help alot but don't get

rid of the original folding hood... it will come in handy. Any medium slr will

have a mirror and if your prone to getting just "acceptably sharp results", try

changing the way your shooting... instead of using your finger tip, use the fatty

part of your finger to push the shutter button but you probably know all this..

Hmm, I think of my 4x5" and larger cameras as a pain to use for "dynamic" photos, and that's when I bring my 6x6 SLR (a Bronica in my case, but the issues are the same).

 

Seriously, though, I think it's just a matter of practice, using the system frequently, and just getting used to it. If people look too posed, then learn to work faster. If the subject is always centered in a way you don't want it to be, there is nothing about the camera that forces you to center the subject.

 

You might consider trying a wider lens, which will give you more DOF and be quicker to focus. For travel photography, if I go out with one lens, it's usually a 50mm--just right for environmental portraits, wide enough for some architecturals, quick enough for street scenes.

 

Also, can you get a rapid focus lever for your camera? These things don't look like much, but I find it a real necessity with the Bronica.

 

Of course, you say you've used Leicas for years, so maybe something like the Mamiya 7 would be more intuitive for you for that reason. If you're happy with the Hasselblad in general, though, I'd say spend the money on film and you'll get the hang of it.

Jon:

 

I ahve the M7 and I use it just as I would use my Leicas. A rangefinder is definitely easier to focus in low light. And a interchangeable lens system is marvellous - if you are a Leica user, you probably like ultra-wides too, esp when travelling - and the 43mm and 50mm lenses are incredible.

 

The 2.8FX has a fast lens, but with a TLR, unless one uses the magnifier, it is hard to focus accurately. (I don't have a FX, only several F's but they have the Maxwell screens installed so when focusing they are no different). People always say you can also handhold the Rolleiflex's to a very slow speed, but in my experience, the Mamiya works out much better. It is vibration free, but it is not very easy to hold the camera still at low speed.

 

When composing, the Rolleiflex is just like the blad, and just as slow. I like it sometimes because I am a tall person 6'1" and doing street photography or shooting my friends with a rangefinder or slr I have to crouch to get them properly centred. A TLR is better in this respect.

 

Also, with only a 80mm, the Rolleiflex may be constraining if used on the road.

Try composing and than using the mirror lockup handheld. I have done it many times with no problem. However, I do not notice any lack of sharpness with the mirror at the speeds you mention and appararntly you don't either?

Jon, are you familiar with the Koni Omega system built and used in the 50's to mid- 70's? Very reasonably priced, designed for hand held use, great optics, 6X7 format.

Many photojournalists and travel photographers use the Mamiya 7/7II because it's just as easy to carry as 35mm, the 6x7 negative is huge, and the Mamiya lenses are fantastic (albeit expensive).

 

The first person who comes to my mind is David Hume Kennerly, whose "Photo Du Jour: A Photo a Day For the New Millenium" was shot completely with two Mamiya 7IIs with the wide angle 43mm lens. I saw the exhibit at the Smithsonian this past November and was blown away by the stunning quality of all the prints, which were 8x10 at the small end, and most were 16x20, all B&W.

 

Granted the rangefinder design has its limitations, but so do all cameras. Hard to go wrong with the Mamiyas IMHO.

The new PM45/PME45 finders weigh around 15 oz, the foldable waist level finder around 3 oz. It's not a whole lot of weight difference, certainly not 2 pounds.

 

Going from a foldable waist level finder to a PM45/PME45 makes a lot of difference in ease of framing/shooting.

I find that I use a waist-level finder when walking around. It's just less bulky. I prefer a prism when I'm mainly photographing people, though, to avoid the waist-level-looking-up-the-nostrils perspective, or when it would be helpful to have TTL metering.

One of the reasons the Hasselblad is so cumbersome on the fly is that the waist level finder requires you to orient your brain to see and think in reverse. The PM/PME45 alleviates that problem and makes focusing faster, but it does add weight. Add a quick-focusing ring to the set-up and you'll increase speed even more. That said, however, the Hasselblad will never be as fast as, say, the Mamiya M6 or M7/M7II.

 

I rarely take the Hasselblad out of the studio these days. And, for street photography, I go out with <I>one</I> of the following: the Contax T3, the Leica M6 (with 50mm), a Canonet QL17, or a good ole Nikon (or Nikkormat FT3) with a 35 or 50mm lens.

Hmm...I have not experienced fuzziness in my shots to the level you're talking about. One thing that helped me is that I shoot handheld with a cable release. I prefer this because I'm not using my whole hand to press the camera release in. It may depend on personal size too. I have pretty meaty hands that support my 501 pretty well. I prefer to shoot without the prism because the light-loss for me is too great with the prism for much of the shooting that I do. Anyway, consider the above and good luck...

 

www.marcmanleyphoto.com

Jon,

 

I�ve never used a Hasselblad, but I use my Mamiya 7II w/65 mm lens a lot and like it very much. As a Leica user I find the two cameras to be similar in use, natural and easy to handle. The Mamiya produces lovely negatives and is quick and handy to use. Highly recommended.

 

Joe S.

I doubt the mirror slap will be significant at short speeds (what do Hasselblad say?). You will remove the perceived issue with a rangefinder.

 

Which you will then replace with rangefinder issues (lack of close focus, hard to use polarising filters etc). No free lunches.

 

If you don't mind the weight, a viewfinder AND the Hasselblad handle adds to the holdability. Adds a flash shoe as well.

 

Although weight is the main issue with travel and 'blads.

I often used a 503CW for candid wedding work. There are a few

pieces of equipment and a few "tricks" that considerably aided in

inproving my hit ratio for dynamic shots.

 

A prism finder: the older style ones are considerably smaller and

a little lighter, not to mention cheaper.

 

A split image focusing screen: This screen can be oriented

vertically or horizionally depending on what you are shooting (I

use mine vertically and place it over the eye of the subject for

closer portraits. I use it horizionally for most everything else).

 

Flip Magnifier: this is an invaluable aid in focusing W/A lenses

and in lower light for all lenses.

 

Tricks: many "dynamic" shots are not particularly close up, but

include some background environment. If you get in the habit of

cranking your lens back to the infinity position, you will know

which way to turn the focusing collar everytime, which eliminates

"hunting". Plus, in most cases, it will require little adjustment to

achieve focus. Another trick was already mentioned: Learn to

use hyper-focal-distance. Especially outdoors you can preset the

zone and get with-in the DOF area.

 

A third trick used frequenly by both wedding and sports shooters

is anticipating the action and pre-focusing for it. During wedding

processions I pre-plan the point of focus, set the lens to f/8 to

account for variations in subject distance, and just step out into

the aisle, frame and shoot.

Many thanks for all your kind feedback so far .... sounds like a 45 degree prism would help me out a lot! As such, am I correct in thinking that:

1) The NC-2 version is pretty old, and less bright and therefore less user friendly than the PM5 or PM45?

2) Does the PM5 (3x magnification) benefit from the same brightness as the latest PM45 (2.5x magnification), but the main difference being the lack of built-in diopter? If so, are lens corrections available new from Hasselblad which would fit the PM5?

 

Many thanks again for your feedback.

Jon

 

I use the Kiev 45 degree and it was/is a bargain at $150 new and works just fine. An NC2 is also fine, but still can be expensive. I also suggest getting the Acumatte microprism/split image screen. MUCH easier focussing. The waist level is very difficult for moving shots: in fact I never use mine.

Jon,

the availability of correction diopters for prism finders is not an issue. Especially when your eyes suffer from astigmatism you have to go to an optician who can make a special diopter for you. This is what I did today. In fact I gave an old eyeglass which was grinded to the right size that it fits into my ukrainian NC-2 copy. Prism and diopter together cost me 75 Euro. This is a reasonable low budget route. (The best of the Hasselblad prism finders to my taste is the PME-45 though which can be used with glasses)

 

Ulrik

I have a Rollei TLR and a blad 500c/m. The Rollei is sharper and is a dream to travel with. The downside is you can't change backs to utilize different types of film for the same scene. The Rollei also does not attract attention like the blad. Naturally the Rollei is much quieter too.

You need to learn how to use a quick focusing handle. There are only 4 major distances in candid work. With time, you will know the position of the handle like a 4-speed gear shift knob! I can focus as quickly as any auto focus! Next, get a PM90 finder with a magnifier 4x. Next, put it all on a R7 Stroboframe from ebay (discontinued) Then I will tell you how and where to attach a grip from a koni-omega. As a result, you will have all the quickness of a 35mm. I am a pro from 1973. I like Rollei 6003 even better...