Hasselblad pro shade vs hoods

Discussion in 'Medium Format' started by erikj, Mar 11, 2003.

  1. I need to shade my lenses. I also would like to get some filters. My
    intention is to get only bay 60 lenses, right now.

    The question is: has anyone used the pro shade? Is it too bulky to
    handhold, does it get in the way? I have looked at it in a store, but
    I would be interested in peoples actual experience. It didnt seem too
    bad to me... but one never knows after a few hours shooting. Would I
    wish for a little hood?

    Also, if I get the hood for the 80mm lens, how would it work for the
    longer lenses like a 120-180? I know there would be a few degrees that
    could be shaded that wouldn't, but is it necessary to get the longer
    hoods?

    The filters for hassys are INSANE!!! The least expensive being the
    standard UV, at $100. I cannot believe the price for the polarizer...
    good god. Obviously the benefit to the pro shade would be the drop in
    filters, that I can get from a number of manufacturers or even make my
    own.

    Thanks!
     
  2. 'The question is: has anyone used the pro shade? Is it too bulky to handhold, does it get in the way?" Yes I've used it but now I use the Lee Filters filter holder and hood system as I can use it with all of my cameras, and use the same 100mm wide filters from Lee, Hitech (or Sinar if you can find them)) to boot.
    No, neither the H'blad Proshade or Lee compendium shades really do not get in my way, even when hand holding.
     
  3. I looked at b&h and coundnt make heads or tails of the lee line. There are a couple of shades, some are wide angle, there are these things that are just filter holders...
     
  4. I use the latest version of the Proshade the 6093T, I don't find it bulky works great on my 120 CFi and 150 CFi lenses that I mostly use it on. The Proshade is supposed to handle lenses up to 250mm, the rail is marked off from 38mm to 250mm and other, with the 250 there is an extra mask that is inserted on the very front. My friend has the same hood and says it works fine with his 180 CFi
     
  5. Ellis, can I ask you some questions,

    -can you use the 105mm Lee polariser on the Lee Filters filter holder and hood system. If so, does it have to be fitted to the front?

    -have you any idea if the wide-angle version would suit the 40mmCF and the regular version suit the 80 and 150. Again, would using the polarizer be a problem?

    -can it take gel filters?

    -are they as robust as the hasselblad proshades?


    I would like the Hasselblad universal proshade but for the fact that I couldnt use the Lee 100x150mm grads. I'm ashamed to say I've been neglecting my shading, so I need to get a solution for my filters and for my 40 itself as the hood was missing.


    Erik, go to http://www.leefilters.com/CPTSHO.asp?PageID=391 for better info on these Lee products.
     
  6. I agree with Ellis on the Lee system - I needed to go with it because of the Nikon 77mm lenses - but in doing so I found that my old Cokin P system works quite well on the Bay 60 lenses. Since I already carry the 77mm glass filters, I step up to this size and then use the Cokin shade with a 77mm adapter. This accepts the "P" graduates that I already have from Singh-Ray and Hi-Tech. This is also much more compact than the Lee approach.

    Caution: This may be a problem on some wide-angle lenses, I have certainly not tried them all.
     
  7. Erik

    See this thread: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=002Dn2. I went to S K Grimes on DryDock Avenue in Boston 617 423-6745 to have an interface made (not cheap) that gives me the best of all worlds. Works very well.
     
  8. Erik,

    The only drawback of the Hasselblad Proshade is that you can't use graduated filters that need to be shifted up or down to position them the way you want them.


    Ted,

    The Proshade 6093 can be fitted to all Hasselblad lenses except the 30 mm Fisheye and 300 mm TPP. It is not limited to lenses up to 250 mm focal length.
     
  9. Erik

    Be careful in your filter selection. I have the 50, 80, and 150 cfi lenses. the 50 and 80 take bayonet 60, but the 50 takes bayonet 70. thus, if I would have purchased bayonet 60 filters I could not use them on the 50 mm lens. the solution is to purchase a 60 bayonet to 70 bayonet adaptor and then to purchase all bayonet 70 filters. As for the bellows lens shade, I have one and use it quite often handheld. doesn't bother me a bit. you have to make sure you can buy adaptors for any size lens you will be using though.

    Kevin
     
  10. I have two proshades and have used them for over 25years. I love them , they are the best for studio work. The leon vignetters also work well with them , and they work with nearly every lens.
     
  11. 0n a general point, I often think that the flare/glare issue is overrated, except in circumstances where there is direct light on the front element. In most circumstances, certainly, it will not be essential to get the absolutely last centimetre of extension possible. Thus, hood/shade extension for a 150 will be fine for a 180.

    I have older Hasselblad shades, and they weigh nothing compared to the camera/lens (you won't notice them).

    I do most photography outside and it is a bit of a hassle to carry them as they are bulky. So I often don't. Your style, too is relevant. I mostly use a tripod, so it is easy to shade the lens front when there is direct sun on it. More relevant in a studio with flash, perhaps.

    I agree about H'blad filter prices. Hoya at least used to make B60 filters, plus B 60 adaptors to screw filters are cheapish...but no shade possible without adaption. Hoya make I think 5 ranges of filters now, and the best are no doubt as good as H'blad.

    I have a butchered old shade (no mount and the hole in the middle bored out more) that I got in an odd secondhand kit and it has been sitting around. I have thought of securing a 72mm filter ring to it. This will give a H'blad shade with screw adaptor. One day I will give it a go!


    Nick
     
  12. Has anyone any experience with the Lindahl Shades? [http://www.lslindahl.com]

    Does it get over the Hasselblad ProShade problem with 100x150mm grad filters by any chance?
     
  13. Seen through the eyes of a perfectionist the Hasselblad pro shade is the best product of its kind on the market for keeping unwanted light off your photos. I use mine with all lenses in the Hasselblad range except the fisheye Distagon F-30 and the Tele-Superachromat 2,8/300. It even fits, and benefits, the long Tele-Apotessar 8/500 and the big Tele-Tessar 4/350. I can even adjust (narrow the angle of) the pro shade for the exact needs of a lens focused close, like a Sonnar 180 plus extension ring in a studio portrait situation with pronounced effects lights from the rear.

    The pro shade may not be the most versatile filter holder, and may not be ideal for people who use gradated filters extensively, but filtering is a different story.

    For controlling unwanted light, nothing beats the Hasselblad pro shade. I therefore use medium format often in situations, where 35 mm could do sharpness-wise, but there is no really convincing way of controlling unwanted light available in any 35 mm camera system. And I rather use the bigger device than compromising on image brilliance and color saturation, accepting flat and boring photos lacking vividness. My invested time is the same, anyway. So why not get the best out of my time invested?

    The cine industry, on the other hand, uses adjustable matte boxes for the purpose of keeping unwanted light out of the camera. They work very well. But one of these costs as much as whole new Hasselblad camera outfit. So, what are we still photo people complaining about when we consider Hasselblad prices...
     
  14. Thanks everyone for your help. I found a broken 6093 at www.mpex.com, they were very helpful and courteous - I highly recommend them. It is great, I picked up a couple drop in filter sheets and have yet to use them, but it works like a CHARM to keep light off of the lens.

    I have popped the filters in there and it is very easy to do, the shade stays on the camera and the whole thing swings up and there is a little pressure plate to keep the filters from moving around, very well made.

    There is really only ONE problem and that is, if you want to use the graduated ND filtes for landscape, you are out of luck if you want to move them around. I personally don't think those are very useful because if anything breaks the horizon, it looks really fake.

    I didn't get the "T" version and the guy at the store held them up side by side and couln't see any difference, besides it was $200 more, my busted one was only like $50.
     
  15. Erik,<br><br>The difference between the 6093 and the later "T" version of the same is in the material used for the bellows.<br>The bellows on the original are rather "springy", tending to shuffle back to where they were last, i.e. slide in (shortening) when pulled out after it has been used with a short(er) lens, and doing the reverse after it has been used with a long(er) lens. And when first used after being stored for a while. Very annoying.<br>I try to keep mine at the desired length using elastic bands wrapped around the bracket, and the additional friction does stop the sliding. But the opposite, "unattached" side still gets pulled back or forth by the bellows, making the whole shade sit rather skewed, the front out of parallel with the rear.<br><br>I was quite disappointed when i bought my 6093. I initially thought that this was something that would get better with time/use. But it doesn't. And when Hasselblad fixed the problem in the second, "T" version, i really thought Hasselblad should have recalled all defective ProShades (since i certainly would call this a defect, unworthy of a venerable company like Hasselblad) too, to replace the bellows. I still do believe they should have. We paid enough for the thing.<br>To me, Hasselblad has never handled lens shades, very well. This defect and the "silent" introduction of a better version (we were never told of the defect and why the "T" version suddenly appeared) is just one example. The present version still not being capable of taking graduated filters is another. And let's not forget that business of having to pay extra (and quite ludicrous amounts too) for a plastic shade when purchasing a multi-thousand $$$ lens.
     

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