Hasselblad 500CM and Flash

S.O.S ! OK I HAVE RECENTLY GOT MY SELF A 500CM.ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL

EDITION. NOW I WANT A FLASH TO WORK WITH IT..IM GETTING A BIT LOST

AND JUST WANT ADVICE ON WHAT WORKS BEST WITH THE SYSTEM. I TEND TO

RUSH INTO THINGS BUT NOW I HAVE MOVED UP FROM 35mm THE EXPENSE HAS

MADE ME SLOW DOWN!SO PLEASE COULD ANY BODY ADVISE ON EVERYTHING I

NEED TO GET UP AND RUNNING INCLUDING GRIPS AND SYNC LEADS..MANY

THANKS SIMON

Been there, done that.

 

You can't go wrong with a Vivitar 283 flash. Dirt cheap ($69 US) and worth every cent.

 

The 500CM uses a standard PC cord. If you buy the 283 a short one comes with it.

 

Buy a good STRONG grip. You don't want anything to break and cause you to drop the camera. I got lucky and got a Hasselblad grip.

 

GOOD LUCK!

The 500C/M has no built-in flash metering, so any auto or manual

flash will work fine with it. Auto is easier to use, especially

if you're not using a flash meter. Sunpak 383, Vivitar 283 are

fine, and excellent values. If you want more power, Quantum,

Lumedyne, and Metz make a selection of units. You just need

a standard PC cord, which probably comes with any flash

you'll buy. <a href="http://www.paramountcords.com">

Paramount Cords</a> makes custom cords to securely fit the

various types of Hasselblad lenses.

I would suggest the Metz 45 or 60 CL/CT series. Anything less than the 45 (GN 45 (m) at 100 ISO)is not really powerful enough for medium format with the smaller apertures involved. All you need is the standard pc cord that comes with the unit. I know there are some aftermarket brackets that may be better than the supplied one, but I don't know anything about them. I'm not familiar with the Vivitar or Sunpack units either.

Simon,

 

I concur with the Vivitar 283 flash recommendation. I have used it for a number of years with a 500CM on the older, non-metered prism finder. It balances very nicely, even if I attach a LumiQuest reflector.

 

There are a number of companies that make well-regarded flash grips which are discussed at length in this forum.

 

-Nick

The people are right you need alot of power to be happy. I tried alot of flashes and this is a great system: Metz 45, placed by bracket so the flash head is about 12 inches above the lense, I used a left hand bracket and a forty five degree bracket of unknown make on the Hasselblad handle, I attached the two with tow hose clamps so the battery pack could still be removed. THEN... I attached the mini Chimera soft box to the flash, this took a custom aluminum bracket. Then the flash sensor was moved by the Metz cable to be right on the top of the lense hood. This gives a fantastic shadowless light for portraits. No red Eye and the remote gives perfect exposure. Cumbersome but GREAT, I later got a deal on a turbo battery nad am now in heaven with this combo. It took time and money but I only had to do it once. Remember the format is square!

I agree with Edward Metz 45 is a good choice. Actually I do also use soft box on top of my Metz 45 CL-4, but seems to be a problem when I use auto mode. Because sensor is blocked by the soft box. Unless I have an external remote sensor which I've been looking for almost 6 months. But Metz discontinue making one about 5 years ago. Let me know if anyone has remote sensor for Metz 45 CL-4.

Cheers.

I've been happy with the Sunpack 545, with its adjustable power levels and flexible flash head swivel capability, so I'll toss in a recommendation for it, should one come your way.

Simon

 

I tend to agree with the statements that you will want more power. However, the question is like money - How much is enough?

 

Two points.

 

1. You said you were on a tight budget. A cheap flash like the 283 will get you started. You can always add another later.

 

2. If the 283 is too limited why is it still the most popular unit for wedding photographers? Contrary to what was posted, it doesn't take any more light to expose a MF negative than a 35mm negative. My 80mm CFE lens is an f2.8. My fastest 35mm lens is an f2.8. Also, I rarely use faster than a f5.6 with flash as I need some depth of field.

 

For the record, my main flash is now a recently purchased Metz 70. It is an improvement but the 283 got me started and still has a place in my bag.

I should have mentioned why I went to the Metz. I just bought a 50mm CFi lens and needed the additional coverage of the Metz flash.

 

I doubt if you have a wide-angle yet.

 

Start with the 283.

James

 

The Metz 70MZ-5 comes with remote sensor, or a coiled lead between the sensor and the head: I use TTL (on my 555 ELD), so it is not a problem.

 

Two Metz 70MZ-5s (with wireless remote control of the second)with difusers is an excellant system but two or three times as expensive as a cheap two head studio flash system.

 

See older question/flash and studio/more than one flash with Hasselblad/my longer posting.

Hi, just to add my tuppence worth, I have 2 Vivitar 283 that I use for fill flash and wedding shots, (not both at once) but when i bought my Nikon F90X outfit I was warned that the 283's have a high trigger voltage, 300v which could damage the electronics of the Nikon. I did have the internal flash connections burn out on my Bronica, which could be significant. Apparently the 283 was redesigned with a lower trigger voltage of 12V, so my advice is to check the specification in the maual.

The 283 is a wonderful flashgun, and a fraction of the price of a Metz, I personally cannot bring myself to part with 300 pounds for a Nikon SB28 or Metz, but then again I try to avoid flash where possible.

I think it is down to your financial situation, I would like a Rollei GX, but could never justify the cost.

 

Paul

Thank you all so much for your advice.There is plenty for me to think about and now I feel a little more confident.