Gossen Pilot Service

Discussion in 'Accessories' started by henry_finley|1, Nov 8, 2021.

  1. AJG

    AJG

    As long as you are in the same light as your subject, you can point the dome of the incident meter at the camera position and get an accurate reading. If you're in the shade and your subject is in the sun then you have a problem and would need to move into the sun to take a reading. I used a Sekonic L28 C incident meter for quite a while for shooting reversal 16 mm movie film, which is both expensive and unforgiving if your exposure isn't right.
     
  2. Rodeo Person, you do not understand that whether 17 is the correct answer or not does not depend on the fact that it is, among other things, the correct result of 7 + 10, but on what the question is.
    No surprise, though.
     
  3. What is noticeable, is that in 1. the sky shows more detail than in 2 and 3. So it´s not wrong in itself, just not what you wanted perhaps. Coming in closer to the tree, excluding more (all?) of the sky produces a result more tuned to the tree. As should be expected. So not a sign that the meter is wrong. The incident light reading is different again, closer to what you like. But to my eyes, that doesn´t mean that 2 is incorrect.
    I wonder, though, about the two stops. That´s a lot. But two stops difference between what? A reading that includes the sky and one that doesn´t. Not something you would want to apply a constant correction of two stops for. It´s due to what the meter sees. Not to a malfunction or misscallibration.

    In incident metering, you point the dome towards the camera or in the direction of the camera. If there is a mucht stronger light from the side or above, not directly illuminating the main part of your subject, you might consider turning the meter such that it catches a bit of that as well. If you want to mainly catch that strong light illuminating the side/contour of your subject, you hold the meter such that that strong side light is metered. You get the drift: it is up to you to decide what to go for. But the general rule is that you want your meterdome to be illuminated by the same light that is illuminating the most important part of your subject.
    I do not quite get why the incident reading, pointing the dome up, produces an exposure that is even lighter than the reflected one taken from the tree base, with skies washed out more. But i don't know the situation.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2021
  4. Very good. I'll be loading another FP4 (120) in a folder that has a Synchro Compur shutter that I recently CLA'd and I checked the 1sec speed numerous times by watching the seconds hand on a large battery powered wall clock I have here in the house. The 1sec speed is pretty good, not longer nor shorter, so that shutter should be good for the test. I'll follow Ilford's specs for the developing.
     
  5. That's what I was trying to determine when I was doing the incident testing. But when I pointed the dome back to where the camera would be (it wasn't on a tripod), I was only metering shadows and tall trees some yards behind the camera ... so I angled the meter up towards the sky thinking that was the same light that was falling on the subject. It seemed to work, the test pics were looking good and the readings were matching the readings from the Canon digital compact which of course was pointed straight at the subject getting reflective readings. I'll now use incident metering often, now that I know what it can do, it may just solve a lot of my exposure problems, especially for landscapes, which I never get right for film using reflective metering.
     
  6. Yes I'll back-pedal there a bit and just say that the L208 is under-exposing only one stop with all the reflective readings I've observed so far. The incident readings from the L208 have been quite different and appear to be the more correct exposures, so I'm taking your earlier advise on board to use incident metering in preference to reflective metering. I want to get it right for my expensive 4x5 sheets, I've hesitated exposing them not only because I don't want to waste them, but also I want to get the exposures as good as I can get them without blown-out highlights, which can't be fixed.

    I don't get it either, but it worked, and on more than one occasion. Perhaps it was just that the sky was overcast and the lighting was relative even everywhere. I've yet to try incident readings in bright sunlight, that could make a difference, and if it does, I'll soon know about it. It's been overcast here for the last week, but today is sunny so I'll go out and see what I get.
     
  7. AJG

    AJG

    Just to be clear, you were metering the amount of light falling on the meter in a particular location, not the trees behind you. The beauty of incident metering is that it isn't fooled by very light or very dark subjects in the way that reflected metering can be if the photographer is oblivious to what the meter is pointed at. The difficulty is the the meter needs to be in the same light as the subject, something that isn't always easy to accomplish.
     
  8. I tried incident metering again today in bright sunlight. I tried two ways, straight back at the camera's position, and the other way was angled slightly up at the sky, the same as I did yesterday but under bright sun this time instead of the yesterday's bleak overcast light.

    I get your point about the meter needing to be in the same light as the subject, and I made sure of that today, so here are three more pics that show the results of today's test.

    No 1 Dome pointed back at the camera's position
    No 2 Dome pointed back as in No1 but slightly angled towards the sky
    No 3 Reflective reading with meter pointed at the tree but angled slightly down

    The tree has changed in the last 24 hours, it's now got near white flowery things all over the top half of it. No1 is probably the correct exposure, but I like No 2 best using this L208. If it's under-exposed, then that's about the right amount of under-exposure I'd like to work with. No 3 is even more under-exposed and I'm not real sure what to think of it, It's dark and I just can't get the reflective metering to come out any other way.

    1 Bright Sun Test 3.jpg 2 Bright Sun Test 2.jpg 3 Bright Sun Test 1.jpg
     
  9. Could be the way they are presented, and how i view these, but all three of them appear correct to me. A bit different, yes. But as you said, you like 2 best, and that is what is key: what do you like to get.
    It's a matter of learning your meter and how you handle it, so you will know what to do to always get what you like best. And then you're set.

    What were your speed and aperture setting for 1, 2 and 3?
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2021
  10. The speeds were: No1, 1/200 sec .... No2, 1/249 sec .... No3, 1/320 sec .... all at f8

    All three are straight out of the camera, I did nothing more to them than the tiniest sharpening and cropping the ends of each image. With reflective metering, this new L208 (just the one I have) seems to perform better in bright sunlight than overcast light. The duller the light, the more the meter under-exposes, exponentially probably.

    Incident
    readings are good in both condition of light. What this means for me, is that in overcast or dull light, I'll only use incident light measurements. For reflective readings, they might be ok in bright sunlight, but only if I meter a dark part of the subject, or even the shadow cast by the subject.

    Many thanks guys, you've been a great help with this exposure anomaly.
     
  11. My favorite selenium meter is the coupled meter for a Canon VI (or Canon P) rangefinder.
    It couples to the shutter speed knob, so you only have to read the aperture value and set it on the lens.

    The original one died many years ago.

    Not so many years ago, I got one from eBay, which works some of the time.
    Tapping on the side sometimes restorers it.

    Usually it either works or not at all.

    The problem on selenium cells is the contacts, which are usually mechanical.
    Especially the front, which is a thin layer of gold with a contact point near the edge.
    The back contact is, I believe, onto the iron substrate, which also can get bad.
     

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