Good sports lens for amateur using Nikon D90?

<p>Hi, I'm photographing mostly high school lacrosse.<br>

I'm looking to spend less than 700 dollars if possible.<br>

Thank you!</p>

<p>Daylight games, or night games? Are you shooting from the stands, or do you have sideline access?</p>

<p>I not sure what they sell for in the US but the Nikon AF-S 70-300mm VR is very sharp its not the fastest in the world with an aperature of 4-5.6.<br>

Otherwise have a look for an old AF-S 80-200mm 2.8 they're extremely sharp but heavy as its 2.8 or Sigma 70-200mm NON OS which is also really good.</p>

<p>The $700 price pretty much eliminates the Nikon 70-200 VR i / ii. </p>

<p>The 70-300 is nice, but won't work too well if you're shooting at night - due to the slow aperture.</p>

<p>I'd recommend either the 80-200 f2.8 - used or the 70-200 f2.8 sigma</p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

<p>The 70-200 is best way to go. I'm moving up (can finally afford it!) to the Nikon version from my Sigma 70-200 f2.8 version. so, my Sigma is for sale - $500 + shipping, if interested.<br>

It's been a great lens for youth soccer, high school sports, rowing and cycling races. over the pat few yrs. Had it checked over by Sigma last Fall.<br>

Steve (shoppix)</p>

<p>Mostly day games and I can get sideline access to 90% of them</p>

<p>http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16830997792&nm_mc=OTC-Froogle&cm_mmc=OTC-Froogle-_-Digital+Camera+Lenses-_-Tamron-_-30997792 <br>

yes / no?</p>

<p>I would go the Sigma over the Tamron, a new or used Nikon 80-200 f2.8 over both of those and a 70-200VR (any version) over that.<br>

As I understand it the Tamron is fairly slow at focussing compared to the others. The Sigma has been around for a number of years and has a good following and no real vices, the Nikon 80-200 is built like a tank and has top notch optics although being screw drive marginally slower focussing and everybody knows the legendary status of the 70-200VR.<br>

I was confronted with this decision about a year ago and oscillated between the Sigma and two Nikons and finally bit the bullet and got a great deal on an unused (unwanted gift) 70-200VR from an auction site. It was above my budget but as it turns out worth every cent.</p>

<p>Since you are shooting mostly day games, the 70-300mm VR (VR version only) is your best bet. For the night games, I suggest getting the 85mm f1.8 lens if you can afford it. Otherwise, consider Nikon's 50mm f1.8.</p>

<p>I do baseball and use both a 70-300VR and the 2.8 80-200, the former on an F6 film camera and the latter on a D90. I use a mono pod on the F6 camera for the 70-300 and on the lens mount ring for the 80-200. I love both set ups and, of course, the 200 on the D90 is roughly equivalent to the 300 on the 35mm F6. Put the 300 on the D90 and you get a "450"...lots of "reach". I often take 400+ frames in one game. That 80-200 and the F6 get pretty heavy after awhile, so the monopod is key especially at "long" zoom lengths. I have used the 85mm 1.8 for basketball but it lacks "reach" for baseball and I suspect also for Lacrosse.. Lacrosse is a harder shoot than either baseball or basketball...very fast, very small ball, large field, low scoring. Basketball is on a small court with a big ball and in baseball the pitcher and hitter start every time from the same place. I find soccer also more difficult even though the ball is bigger and slower than Lacrosse. I'd also recommend the battery grip for the D90...amazing how often the battery runs out right at the critical play and all the autofocus activity sucks battery power. Also the big grip and the monopod give you a more "pro" look which will often get you closer to the action without beefs from the refs and coaches.</p>

<p>http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-70-300mm-4-5-Vibration-Reduction/dp/B00154ERWC<br>

yes / no?<br>

Found it at best buy for $589<br>

And how many yards does 100mm get you?</p>

<p>And what does the battery grip do? (Post link for a good one please)</p>

<p>The 70-300 ed vr is a very good lens for the money.<br>

Google "d90 battery grip" and you will find both the nikon branded one ($$) and others. The grip allows you to use two rechargeables or 6 AA's (grip comes with "insert" for the AA's). I use the recharge's but keep the AA insert with fresh batteries in my bag...never run out of power! The grip also has a shuuter button that your finger can be on when shooting vertical, which is nice when you are "on" a single player.</p>

<p>Thanks. The battery grip sounds very useful, any suggestions on a good quality one?</p>

<p>Battery grips also help balance the camera better with long or heavy lenses such as the 80-200 f2.8 fitted. Even though the whole combination is heavier it feels more stable in your hands.</p>

<p>link to good battery grip please?</p>

<p>Definitely a used Nikon 80-200/2.8 and used TC-14E or even TC-20E.</p>

<p>Robert,<br>

I'd go for the 80-200 mm f/2.8 Nikon. You can probably get one used for a very reasonable price. Forgo the teleconverter...you'll likely not need it.</p>

<p>The only issue you may run into is AF speed. The D90's teenie tiny AF motor works it's butt off to crank the focus of the 80-200.</p>

<p>I'd recommend taking your D90 to a local camera shop and trying out the different lenses you's like to buy. See which one AF's best, which one fits best in your hands, and finally, figure out which one you like the best.</p>

<p>Once that's done, the rest is easy...you buy it and use it.</p>

<p>Hope this helps.<br>

RS</p>

<p>am i gonna get enough range with the 80-200?</p>

<p>The 200mm end is equivalent to 300mm on a film or full frame SLR. I shoot Women's Tackle Football with my 70-200mm. I have to run up and down the sidelines and use a monopod due to the weight of the lens, but this really isn't a big issue.</p>

<p>The fast f/2.8 aperture allows me to shoot evening and night games (under lights) without an issue. I try not to crank the ISO too high (1600 if needed), and try to shoot no slower than 1/125 sec... 1/500 is better, and 1/1000 is the best to stop action.</p>

<p>With a slow-ish lens like the 70-300mm, you will have no issue under sunny or slightly overcast skies, but if a game goes into the evening you may have an issue getting the shutter speeds you will need to stop action.</p>

<p>Are my shots gonna be blurry with the 70-300?</p>

<p>"Are my shots gonna be blurry with the 70-300?"</p>

<p>That depends entirely on shutter speed, movement of the subject and technique. Your shots may be rock solid and mine with the same equipment may be blurry.<br>

In general you will have more latitude with an f2.8 lens than you will with something like the 70-300VR but there are plenty of situations where there isn't enough light for even an f2.8 lens to capture action. It's the old story of getting what you pay for to a large extent unfortunately and you just need to do the best you can within your budget and accept that you may not be able to capture every single opportunity.</p>

<p>I'd recommend the 70-300mm f/5.6 VR if most games are daytime.</p>

<p>I have the 80-200mm f/2.8 and the 70-300mm f/5.6. I prefer the 70-300mm over the 80-200mm during daylight hours. It's my favorite lens. It has great reach and tack sharp. If I get into an evening/night game, I go to the faster 80-200mm. Good luck. </p>

<p>I'm goin with the 300. Thanks everyone!</p>

<p>Good choice. It's sharp at all focal lengths and with the D90 you'll get excellent shots even in lower light at higher ISOs. I use mine with a D5000, but the two cameras are pretty much identical in high ISO performance.</p>