Gluing rubber on F100

Quick question: My F100 suffers from separation of the rubber outside

cover from the metal body inside.

 

I.e., the left front seam along the back opening latch of the F100 is

coming loose where the red self timer light and the remote cord socket

sit. I pulled off what seems to have been rubber cement from the

anodized body and the back of the rubber cover.

 

What should I use: rubber cement, contact cement, or porous superglue?

Any advice? Other than a mailing to Nikon ...

 

Thanks

Poor workmanship... get used to it.

I've had a similar problem in the past. I used contact cement, and it never came off

again. That's basically what is under there anyway. Don't use rubber cement, it won't

hold. Super glue might work but it's a bit harsh and the vapors can lead to staining

around the area. Try contact cement and be neat about it. you might have to hold it

down with some tape or something while it cures.

The rubber on the baseplate of my T90 started to lift (from high heat maybe?).<P>First I tried superglue -- that seemed to dry out and crystallize. I cleaned it off and then used contact cement -- it's been perfect for several years now.

Some recommend Pliobond adhesive: my left-grip rubber stuff has 'come loose' and it is now held-together with black duck tape: no one would ever want to steal it! (Nikon service was $160+ for a 'clean-and-fix-the-tape that came loose servicing at a Nikon USA repair place...)

contact cement, super glue never glued anything for too long, contact cement is the right glue to use, forget rubber cement for this job.

---<div></div>

And this is the Camera you folks have been raving about?!

 

Vivek.

<em>"And this is the Camera you folks have been raving

about?!" --Vivek Iyer<br>

</em><br>

I have not seen the condition and it wasnt something that

happened to SLR(s) like the F2 or F3. Ive seen cameras were

leatherette was all dried out but not from the 70s as I

recall. I think, I guess Nikon uses some kind of tacky two sided

tape to put the covering on these new cameras. Im not sure.

If I remember Ill ask my friend. Then again Nikon USA wont

sell parts for the F100 and F5 so I dont think he has ever

worked on one.<br>

<br>

Anyway PLIOBOND is the smell of a new Nikon from the 70s

and 80s. It might be the MEK so breathing deeply is not

advised. ;-)<br>

<br>

I learned about PLIOBOND from my camera repairman friend.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.<br>

<br>

PS: Vivek, I'm afraid this is all new Nikons.

Yes, I guess so Dave.

 

Regards,

Vivek.

I have successfully tacked corners of the rubber cover on my D1x using black RTV (silicone) adhesive. If the cover should come loose again, RTV is fairly easy to remove, having relatively low peel strength. It's important that the camera covering and adhesive be removeable for repairs. The black color camouflages the repair effectively.

 

I've not found any double-sided tape strong enough to hold the cover. Pliobond holds just fine, but is so strong after a time that the rubber would tear before the bond. That would present a significant cleanup challenge if the cover were replaced. Superglue is extremely effective bonding rubber to metal, but is too invasive. It could easily migrate where you don't want.

Shame about the build quality of "newer" cameras. My F4s rubber coating sticks to the body like my wife to my pay packet!