Getting more from MF

<p>I just made some B&W 16 x 16 inch prints from my 6 X 6 cm negs, so about a 10X enlargement. I've never printed this big before. I don't think I would want to go much larger than this as the grain is becoming more noticeable. Generally from looking around on the web it seems that a 10x enlargement is about the limit. Certainly I notice a difference comparing the 16x16 inch prints to my 10 x 10 inch prints I'm normally making, which look great.</p>

<p>At this point I don't want to print any larger, but I would be happy to improve the quality of my negs for 16x16 prints. Mostly I'm shooting TMAX 100, Acros 100, or Kodak PX 125. Negs are developed with D-76 dilluted 1:3. I am not very religious when it comes to deloping, I check the temps which are usually 22-25C and adjust times as needed per the massive developing chart. Anything I could do to see noticeable improvement - or am I simply hitting the limit of MF?</p>

<p>Limit? Not even close!</p>

<p>When I want ultra fine grain, I develop in XTol and then selenium tone the negs. The latter converts the silver and gives more density. Although I started to use this combo for pushing, It does amazing things with box speed or pulling.</p>

 

<p>Try your D-76 undiluted (the way it was designed to be used) and you should see a noticeable decrease in grain size. IME T-Max 100 can be developed to give an almost invisibly fine grain using almost any developer except Rodinal. You might have to drop the rated speed to about 80 ISO to get the best grain size though.</p>

<p>Incidentally, 25 Celsius is really too high a temperature for developing B&W. It opens up the gelatine structure too much, which encourages excessive grain growth.</p>

<p>16 x 16 inch is just above 7X. You'll need to go to 22.5x22.5 inches for 10x. Anyway quality is a subjective matter, so it is up to you to decide how large to print.</p>

 

<p>I have no experience with B&W but I have slide printed 50X70 cm (19,6x27,5 in), so 12,7X (linear) and you can't see the grain.</p>

<p>D76 diluted 1 plus 3 gives maximum economy, higher acutance (appearance of sharpness), some compensating effect (higher shadow density relative to highlights) but definitely the most graininess of any dilution. As someone else said, D76 undiluted gives the finest grain (because it has the strongest solvent action - you might feel sharpness suffers) - many people feel 1 plus 1 is the best compromise. T-Max developer is the natural choice for T-Max films, but don't use it unless your developing times and temperatures are accurate - it's very unforgiving. Overexposure will of course also make grain look worse. Just by the way - I had a picture in an exhibition recently alongside some shots by David Bailey from the 60s taken I presume on a Hasselblad and (I would think) Ilford FP3 - they were 6 feet square and grain was almost invisible!</p>

<p>Pan-F?</p>

<p><<Pan-F?>><br>

Pan F is certainly a spectacularly fine-grained film, especially in 120, but IIRC it was available in 35 mm only in the 60s.</p>

<p>Kodak Plus-X 125 @ $25 / 5 pack 120<br>

Ilford Pan F Plus @ $4.21/roll 120<br>

at B&H.<br>

It's not the old crazy sharp Pan ... but then it's still not extinct either.<br>

Jim</p>

<p>You need Efke R25 or Rollei Pan 25 (available at B&H Photo). </p>

<p>You should also consider to try Perceptol. This developer delivers great picture quality with the Ilford Plus-range. I do not use anything else anymore. </p>

<p>For the finest possible grain, it's TMX developed in XTOL. I like using it 1+1, and don't see any grain up to 10x enlargement when the print is viewed at a normal distance. You might see some if you're really sticking your nose into the print - maybe. You will get full box speed with this combo, and while the negatives may look a little flat, they print beautifully. </p>

<p>I'd keep up with the films you are on. Plus-X is wonderful but the more you dilute the D-76, the more grain you get. If can afford to, give it a try at full strength or even just 1:1</p>

<p>Frank's answer is the one I would give. Acros, TMax or PanF in Xtol, 1:1. I get really great sharpness with that combination. You might also want to play around with Diafine and Pyro. I regularly print 30x30" prints from my Hasselblad shots. Make sure you work on focus and bolting the camera down on a good tripod. This will help your hit rate considerably.</p>

<p>I tried d76 stock with acros 100 and the grain is much better compare to 1:3! Thanks for the tip! I will still try some of the slower speed films for better big enlargements.</p>

<p>Tmax is a great film. So is Pan F. I am not a fan of Acros. <br>

If I want really really fine grain and a really sharp image, I will opt for Pan F 50 and develop in Perceptol. <br>

Tmax in Microdol X, or Tmax developer would be my second choice. I would not even consider d76 compared with these combinations.</p>

<div></div>