Getting 5D classic as my first full frame DSLR

Discussion in 'Canon EOS' started by alberto_ayala, Jan 17, 2017.

  1. I remember the 5D fondly. OOC Raws were buttery smooth till ISO 800 - as in far smoother than modern sensors, but the hard ISO3200 cap is disheartening in this day and age. I highly recommend getting a FF camera cheap. FF imagery changes the feeling of an image. DOF is narrower (and can be much more narrow than the same equiv FL on a crop). It was never a fast camera, but it was fast enough to keep up with running children (though I wouldn't try BIF ;) ). I frequently hear people complain about the LCD, but, as I never relied on the LCD for anything other than basic exposure/focus checks, it never really bothered me... If you can get one for under $300 in good condition, it'll likely be a great addition to your bag...
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2017
  2. for me the issue is not for my personal use, i could do completely without it...the problem is people wanting to see the picture you just took and expecting some perfect poster like photoshopped image and seeing a nasty low res dim, greenish-tinted image (especially for the early versions)

    speaking of versions....you need to pay to pay attentiion to the 10 digits serial number as canon continuously made smalll improvement during the production run,,,canon doesn´t publish the data, but empirically....the serials starting with # 0 (the 0 is ommited in some EXIF) were the first produced in 2005, the serials starting with # 1 where produced in 2006, a less green LCD, but still the falling mirror issue, the #2 made in 2007 some small improvements, like the sensor coating, and mostly the mirror issue was fixed, the #2 later serials like 27, 28, 29 and the #3 were the last produced in 2008.....although age is not the whole story, and they all function the same with the lastest canon updates, it can be worth it to only look for later models...
     
  3. Yes, you would want to pay attention to the s/ns if you are worried about the green LCD. All of my copies were #0... and none suffered that particular problem. They all had to have the mirror fix, which Canon did for free, but, like nearly all digital cameras of the era, regular sensor cleaning was a requirement. While I understand that some people are scared of this chore, if done properly there is virtually no risk to the sensor. In fairness, I also found that it was much less of an issue than many made it out to be - although if you lived in the desert (which I don't) it may be much worse than my experience would imply.

    As far as the subjects gimping off my camera back? Yes, I can see how you'd want a clear LCD for that... but... in fairness, the 5D's LCD is frankly pathetic by current standards - even prosumer/consumer standards, much less professional standards. The best it gets on a 5D is still going to look like utter crap compared to the LCD of a modern el-cheapo Rebel...
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
  4. I bought my father a used 5D two years ago. At the time, I believe it was a good choice, but since the 5D IV came out, the prices of others have gone down.

    I believe now that that the 5D mark II is the choice for lower priced full frame cameras, or the Nikon D700 if you go that direction.
     
  5. I too use a 5DC as my main rig and the backup is a 20D. One thing to note: the mirror of my 5DC fell out during a shoot. I cleaned it up and applied a little super glue and reattached. You might want to search the net for the procedure. But the key is... just enough glue to keep it in place.
     
  6. I would use a more impact resilient adhesive than super glue (it tends to crack apart when subjected to high numbers of impacts - such as a mirror in a camera), it also tends to outgas as it dries and adhere to organic residues leaving residue that is darn near impossible to get off the pentaprism assembly - not good for an optical path if it affects you. Not to say you can't get get lucky, but the two issues make cyanoacrylate not an adhesive of choice for this application.
     

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