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I have a very saturated shot - vivid magenta and cyan/blue stage lighting.

Tried to print it on Epson glossy but it's dull and has out of gamut patches

printing steely grey (played around with saturation and hue but can't pull into

acceptable -or any- gamut). Local lab did a decent job on Kodak Royal matte

but it's lacking that "punch" and I'd like to go A3 at least - any ideas for

paper/technique etc. 1290 printer with standard inks - monitor calibrated.

Cheers<div>00LZFs-37059384.jpg.c2b7be0f8cafbc1ee08d181d1d53874c.jpg</div>

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I'm not an expert, but I can usually figure out how to get things like this look close through trial and error. Assuming you've checked out the basic turorials that explain how to set the two drivers when pringing, I have a couple ideas of things you might check out (if you haven't already)....

 

What colorspace is the photo captured in? Have you downloaded the paper profile and are you using it photoshop to soft proof? If you are softproofing, do the colors show up with an out of gamut warning (that's my guess based on what you say)? What colorspace is photo in before you print. You may need to convert the colorspace to adobe rgb 1998 from the edit-convert to profile menu if it doesn't look right and adjust the colors in photoshop using the paper profile. You might try playing with the intents also.

 

I guess it's possible that you're seeing colors in the srgb version that aren't in adobe 1998 (this will produce an out of gammut warning when soft proofing with this turned on). One trick to try is that it is possible to capture in profoto rgb (which will give you a wider range of colors) and print in adobe 1998 and let the conversion happen in the epson driver and get saturated colors without much fuss.

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First you have to determine just how wide the gamut is. The standard tool is Photoshop's Soft Proof. I would go to the Dry Creek Web site and download some of the profiles for glossy papers on various printers (which are inherently more saturated than matte papers) to use for soft proofing. If you can't find any that meets your needs, try Fujiflex (aka Superglossy) for the ultimate in gamut.
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You might try PhotoGamutRGB. Google it.

 

It's an optimized generic minilab space you can convert to or Soft

Proof then convert and still edit to grab the most gamut these

types of printers can manage with the least amount of

posterization and dulling.

 

P22 display phosphors are more than any printer can take and

that posted image has pretty much tapped that gamut as well.

You're getting into Peter Max custom mixed fluorescent

screenprinting ink territory.

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