nvanzanten Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 <p>Does any one have recent experience with this. I have a quantity of 5 oz cans and was thinking of giving it try. But wondering if newer films need any kind of adjustment?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 <p>Treat it as if it is D-76. as it is almost the same.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_de_fehr Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 <p>I was given several cans of Isodol, and I brought one up to Alaska with me. The can is supposed to make a gallon of developer, but I don't have a lot of space in my room, and I didn't have a gallon container, so I made it up in a liter of water instead of a gallon. I used hot tap water, and everything dissolved, and stayed dissolved when the solution cooled. Since I don't have a thermometer, or a light meter up here, I rely on long development times and dilute solutions. I dilute my 1 liter concentrate 1:10, and develop for around 20 minutes. I agitate for 30 seconds, or so, and then get in the shower. After my shower, I agitate again for a few seconds, and then get dressed. Then I pour out the developer and pour in the fixer, etc. This system has worked very well for me. I'm shooting some kind of Chinese film I bought from Ultrafine online in 120 format. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot_myrick1 Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 <p>Does any one have recent experience with this. I have a quantity of 5 oz cans and was thinking of giving it try. But wondering if newer films need any kind of adjustment?</p> Isodol is the equivalent of Kodak DK-50 film developer. Dilute it 1:1 and follow times for Stock D-76. I still have a couple of cans myself and I still use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 from Modern Photography 1960-10 KODAK DK-50 & ANSCO ISODOL: Two energetic non-fine-grain types which, diluted, make soft-working single· shots. Medium to high film speed, good sharpness, moderate contrast. In general, lsodol develops negatives to a slightly higher contrast than DK-50 will in the same time. Use lso· dol for Ansco films, DK-50 for Kodak films. Useful and inexpensive to de· velop large numbers of films quickly. Price: DK-50, 1 gal. powder, 75 cents; lsodol 65 cents. Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester 4, N. Y. Ansco, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot_myrick1 Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Dilute your Isodol 1:3 and follow processing times for stock D-76 for all of your films that you're processing. I use this developer as a backup for Kodak's DK-50 and DK-60A when I run short or out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_wood7 Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 I have also tried DK-50 1:1 recently on some 12 year out of date apx 100 sheet film that was not stored properly to test my super graphic. I was very impressed that I had very little fogging. I used Elliot's t max 1:4 time and it was very very close. I have been using Diafine and I like it but it is not kind to out of date film. Will mix up some DK-60 soon. Thanks everyone for keeping old technology alive and well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Some say that Diafine is fine for out of date films. I never tried a side-by-side comparison, but some of the older films I have had, I did in Diafine. Well, some years ago I had a roll of Tri-X that I shot 30 years earlier. (My father found it in a camera that I had borrowed from him.) There is some age fog, but otherwise it seems fine. But otherwise, my choice for old film is usually HC-110 (B). -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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