Fuji x-pro 2 with lens adapter

Discussion in 'Mirrorless Digital Cameras' started by paul_sharratt, Apr 11, 2016.

  1. Can anyone set out the steps/choices for focusing/shooting using non-native lenses with an appropriate lens adapter on the Fuji x-pro 2. Would like to see it set out as choice A, B, or C with steps A1, A2, etc. Thank you.
     
  2. In general, a non-native lens requires a suitable adapter, which ranges from a few dollars to $300 or more, depending on the quality and manufacturer. While a few autofocus adapters are available, most of the time the lens must be focused manually, even if it is an AF lens. Usually there is no way for the camera to set the aperture, or even know which setting is used, so the lens must be used in aperture priority mode.
    My own experience started with with a Sony A7ii, which I found attractive because it could be used with lenses I already possessed, Nikon and Leica. The A7ii has in-body image stabilization and a variety of focusing aids for manual lenses. Originally, Sony had very few native lenses, but as time progressed more and more high quality lenses were added to their catalog, and my old lenses were gradually retired.
    The Fuji has a hybrid optical/electronic viewfinder, selected with a lever. The optical finder has a low magnification (0.3x) with a bright frame keyed to the lens, but not to foreign lenses. It has an optical split-image rangefinder, again usable only with native lenses. The electronic viewfinder is full-frame regardless of focal length, and has peaking (enhanced edge contrast) for manual focusing, but little else to help you out.
    The Sony A7 has only an electronic viewfinder with both peaking and magnification to help focusing manual lenses, and the image stabilization works with all lenses too. For best stabilization, you dial in the focal length, which is automatically determined with native lenses. It is a pleasure to use the Sony with manual lenses of all sorts. I don't think I would be comfortable with the Fuji.
    Fuji is an APS-C camera, which means few lenses for film cameras are short enough for wide-angle use (16 mm or less). However Fuji lenses are highly regarded, with a wide range of focal lengths and speeds. You aren't obliged to start with foreign lenses, waiting for something more desirable from the manufacturer. For a comprehensive review of the X-Pro2, see this article.
    http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-pro2
     
  3. I agree with Edward. While adapted legacy lenses are a joy to use on my A7, it's really not the same with my xp1. It just defeats the purpose of the OVF. However, using the EVF, it can produce some really fine results given you nail down the focus with peaking and magnification.
    Save up for native lenses so that you can take advantage of that really special hybrid finder. It's definitely something else....
     
  4. An XP2 does have focus peaking, a split image focus aid, and can magnify the focus area. It's quite usable with adapters.
    But the reason you buy one is to use Fuji lenses. They're fantastic. Not a bad piece of glass in the lineup. They're the
    2003 Red Sox offense of lenses. (The 18mm's corner sharpness is represented by Jeremy Giambi.) You get an 18-55
    and 55-200 kit and the results look like you're shooting L glass. I used to use adapters and stopped because there was no
    point.
     
  5. i agree. shooting a Fuji with adapted lenses somewhat defeats the purpose of shooting Fuji in the first place.
     
  6. Well, I think EVF-only Fujis are perfect if you're into adapting legacy and/or non-native glass. (XE's and XT's) Especially with the incorporation of split-image focus aids on the more recent Fuji bodies.
    If you just purchased that XP2 and you're ONLY adapting lenses, maybe return it and grab and an XT1? ...or wait for the XT2?
    Good luck.​
     
  7. Sorry I am badly informed. But I know: Fuji make one proprietary adapter to M-mount. It has a button to allow toggling between 5 different lens profiles that it will transmit to the attached camera. - Sorry I do not recall how you are supposed to stuff these profiles into your adapter. But at least you should be able to bring up the right OVF frame lines for your mounted lens that way. - I think the adapter does not sense the frame line info provided in the M mount and also the Fuji might have individual lines.
    I do have an X-E1 and Chinese adapters and believe Fuji -tech support mailed me I should set the camera to manual focus while I still have a Fuji lens mounted. There might be something in its general setup menus to be selected too.
    I am not sure why on earth one should pick an EVF only Fuji for adapted lenses. - The X-Pro2 has as few EVF pixels as the X-T1 and probably at least the same refresh rate.
    With the hybrid VF you can most likely frame more conveniently once you counted a lot of aperture ring clicks. - My X-E1's EVF went dark once I stopped my lens down to f16 while I had 4 100W bulbs in nearby strobes lighting my subject. If it was possible to bring frame lines up by hand / via menu I'd be much happier with hybrid VF using the tiny patch for focusing.
     
  8. Thank you for all the responses. The questions is one of how to, or workflow, for owners of Fuji x-pro 2. I'm interested in what people put to use with their non-native lenses. For the x-pro 2 people let me know please . . .
     
  9. The Fuji has a hybrid optical/electronic viewfinder, selected with a lever. The optical finder has a low magnification (0.3x) with a bright frame keyed to the lens, but not to foreign lenses. It has an optical split-image rangefinder, again usable only with native lenses. The electronic viewfinder is full-frame regardless of focal length, and has peaking (enhanced edge contrast) for manual focusing, but little else to help you out.​
    Actually on the X-Pro2 I'm using seems to contradict what this is saying. There is a frame line in the OVF that is accurate to the lens if properly set in the menu. It offers full optical viewer or the imposed partial EVF window in the lower right corner and is just like using a Fuji lens in full manual mode except yes you have to use manual lenses with aperture rings. Oh, lucky me, all the lens I want to use on it besides the amazing Fuji lens, and the Fuji's are truly excellent lenses, have aperture rings. To me its very familiar using legacy lenses on the Xpro 2 and there's really no need to use and XT1 at all, just not true. If you must use EVF completely, there is a very good one on the XP2. Also, for the leica lenses I've been using, the resolution increase in the sensor, has actually brought out potentials in these lenses I haven't seen since shooting film or onthe times I've used them on 4/3. They are good mind you, but I'm just getting a different level of clarity and color with this new sensor.
    Saying all that, I only use the legacy lenses for certain things. My main lens in the amazing Fuji xf 23, I'm just loving it. But legacy lenses work fine. 35mm and 50mm or less do not really need stabilization. Even many of Fuji's best lenses are not OIS, and it really doesn't matter unless you have extremely low light and then its less important for wide angle lenses.
    Also, I'm finding the high ISO incredibly good, better than I expected and that can help me get my shutter speed up. Anecdotally, It w Was darkish semi rain, last Sat and most of the shots I took are at 1600 ISO and there's just no noise. But I digress. With a good adopter like the Rayqual, IMHO they work great on legacy manual focus lenses on the X-Pro2.
     
  10. Paul, just to answer part of your question, I use Leica 35 and 50mm Summicrons, CVC 21, 50 and 90, much less often, but my main lens is the Fuji XF 23.
     
  11. Oops, I misspoke above. Some of the photos I mentioned above were shot at low ISO. The ones at ISO1600 did have some noise but it is still impressively low. I was looking at 1/1 and 2/1 to really see it and not unattractive. Usually don't care but just wanted to check since I was putting that out there. Sorry.
     
  12. I shoot adapted manual focus primes on a Fuji X-Pro 2.
    --The cheap generic adapters on fleabay work fine.
    --Set the menu option, Shoot without Lens, else the camera will not respond to a shutter press!
    --Mount the lens and set the focal length in the menu item to match the lens.
    --Make sure the M-C-S switch is on S.
    --Set the aperture. If you wish, fix ISO and shutter speed, too, or use the EC dial to adjust exposure.
    --Choose OVF or EVF as you prefer for a shot.
    --Use the joystick on the back to move the focus box to where you want it.
    --Focus using the magnified EVF, obtained by pressing the rear command dial. I like focus peaking off.
     
  13. Thanks Charlie. Did you mean to write that the M-C-S switch to be on M?
     
  14. Did you mean to write that the M-C-S switch to be on M?​
    To perform manual focus with a non-X lens, yes.
     
  15. Having the switch set to M enables focusing aids.

    The Xpro2 works well with legacy lenses. I used the Xpro1 with legacy lenses and it was ok, but not great in general.
    There were some lenses, such as the Nikon 105mm f2.5 which work exceptionally well on the Xpro1, even photographing
    people (static objects are never a problem). Zone focusing also works well on the Xpro1.

    The improvements to the Xpro2 in this regard are game changers. I mention this because those who have used the Xpro1 but
    not the Xpro2 may not give you the information you seek.

    The one thing to know is that if you are using the EVF, what you see is what you get (100% accurate view). If you use the
    OVF, you will get two overlapping boxes, one extending a little bit up and to the left, the other a little bit down and to the
    right. These represent parallax correction for infinity and close focus. Because the camera doesn't know your focus
    distance with a legacy lens, it doesn't automatically compensate as it does when manually focusing native lenses.

    If you use the peaking feature it helps to use a color like red (another feature the Xpro1 lacked).

    The joy stick for focus point selection is another substantial difference. It is easy and obvious to use, but you need to experience it in practice to see the utility.

    The Xpro2 allows for substantial reconfiguration, allowing you to customize several features of the interface. It is worth considering which features you end up using with legacy lenses and adjusting the interface to improve your workflow once you have identified which aids serve you best.
     
  16. Thank you Derrick. Very helpful. Shoot yesterday using Zeiss M lenses and am looking forward to using the Nikon 105. I
    have opted to using the EVF but your straight forwsrd description of the OVF with non-native lenses makes great sense.
    Now to learn how to lock shutter speed when using strobes with flash triggers (bc I shott at 1/320 for 10 images:().
     

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