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Fuji GX680, can it be used effectively hand held?


nick_sandin

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Hello all,

 

I have just gotten back in to medium format fil photography after a long time sticking to 35mm and digital. I currently have a Mamiya 645

pro and I love it. However, for some of the photography that I do, I want a camera with more control through movements.

 

I am looking at a couple options. I could hold on to my Mamiya & get a Graflex Super Graphic or something similar; but then I am forced

to take on the cost of purchasing & processing 4x5 film.

 

My second option is what brings me here. I could sell my Mamiya and get a Fuji GX680. My concern with the 680 is the considerable

increase in size of the camera. What I'd like to know from someone who has experience with the 680, is the camera small enough to be

used handheld? I know that it would be a handful, but is it still practical? I would love to be able to have one camera that could suit all my

needs.

 

Also, while on the subject, what is the lens selection like with the 680? Could I get the body, a couple backs, a wide, normal, and tele lens

for under $1500 or so?

 

All input is greatly appreciated, thanks!

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<p>No Graflex expert here, but if you can spot one with an international back, you should be able to use Calumet slide in roll holders, to shoot 6x7cm with it. - I only know Technika there the 4x5" WA functions as MF standard lens and so on. - Combining a MF wide with movements seems hard there. And handholdability of the entire unit is a bit questionable but not entirely impossible.</p>
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<p>I did use shift on my 1920s Voigtländer Bergheil 6.5x9cm handheld, framing with its sports finder after groundglass focusing (for double checking) on the building I wanted to shoot. And I'd doubt the majority of Lensbaby shots to involve tripods.<br>

I used my Technika handheld too, but that was of course without movements. - Anyhow the Fuji is a SLR, so why not use it handheld even with applied movements? - Results might not be great but better than with a rigid setup depending on the subject etc. </p>

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<p>I handled one at a trade fair, and I would say yes, handholding OK if you are Arnold Schwarzenegger, possibly even if you are not if you use a neckstrap to take some of the weight, but really this camera was designed for studio-only tripod-only use.</p>
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<p>You're kidding, right? Check pix of the thing and ask yourself again. It was a brilliant studio camera in its day but never meant for mobile shooting.</p>

<p>It's a complex and largely unserviceable camera. I know Fujifilm.ca stopped working on them quite some time ago. Due to cost, they didn't sell widely which means little chance of spares or indie techs capable of handling them.</p>

<p>If you want a 6x7 camera, try a Mamiya RB/RZ. Right at the edge of the handholdable envelope and a great deal less $$$. Lots of bodies, lenses and backs still in circulation plus better service/repair options.</p>

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<p>You're kidding, right? Check pix of the thing and ask yourself again. It was a brilliant studio camera in its day but never meant for mobile shooting.</p>

<p>It's a complex and largely unserviceable camera. I know Fujifilm.ca stopped working on them quite some time ago. Due to cost, they didn't sell widely which means little chance of spares or indie techs capable of handling them.</p>

<p>If you want a 6x7 camera, try a Mamiya RB/RZ. Right at the edge of the handholdable envelope and a great deal less $$$. Lots of bodies, lenses and backs still in circulation plus better service/repair options.</p>

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<p>Hi Nick,<br>

I have the GX680iii, and I also have a Mamiya 645. I have the GX680 for the same reasons that you want it - for the movements.<br>

I've looked into other options such as a tilt-shift adapters for MF (finding most wide angle lenses don't have a large enough image circle for the tilt-shift), I've also looked at large format, which i'm still considering, but if you want hand-held, forget it.<br>

I've never used the GX680 hand-held, only ever on a tripod, only because I carry it in parts (in a back pack - very convenient) and assemble when I get to location (I also never use this as a 'studio camera' - only landscape and architecture), You could assemble it, put it in a bag and then take it out and wear it around your neck (it's ready for a neck strap), however, expect some neck strain if you're carrying it with the lens attached at all times, maybe you could carry the lenses in something around your waist? or in a bag on your back? then attach for the image, only because the lenses are heavy, beautiful!... but heavy.<br>

The body and film backs of the camera are plastic/carbon fibre which is impressive but the glass in the lenses are pretty large and heavy.<br>

On lenses, I only ever take two out with me, the 125 mm, great for portraits and details - very shallow depth of field, and the 65 mm which is my wide angle. The widest lens is 50 mm, however this is the only lens of their range which doesn't have a large enough image circle for movements, so if you want movements, 65 mm is the widest, and it's wide enough.<br>

you could buy an entire kit for $1500 for sure, however, you probably wont be able to find a mint 65 mm that would keep this kit under $1500, there are plenty out there on eBay for example, but they mostly have a tiny bit of dust or something a little more scary. Mine has a touch of dust, but I don't see it effecting any of my images, so I don't mind it.<br>

the Pentax 67 has a lens with movements, but it's 75mm, so not wide enough for architecture, but maybe landscape? I'd look into those, but it could also be a little heavy, and if you don't frighten the wildlife away, the mirror slap will, so just consider that.<br>

I have a 35 mm for my mamiya 645, it's great for interiors but not exteriors or landscapes (where you might need movements - and I think movements are necessary once you know have to use them - cheak this out: https://youtu.be/0fw-API6SIY )<br>

one last thing on the GX680, never buy rechargeable batteries for it, it can last a long time on the single use ones, but not the rechargeable ones, also take a spare set with you just in case. That is the downside to this, runs on batteries. Other than that, It's a wonderful camera, I do take it on hikes, worth it.</p>

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<p>If RF photography would suit you, you could do worse than acquire (for less than 1500$ for both) two near mint 6x9 Fujifilm cameras, one with a 65mm lens, the other with a 90mm lens (GSW690III and GW690II being the most recent of the discontinued models). Apart from the large negative size you would have two bodies, just in case, 5 or 10 years on you need to send one for repair or even retire it. I have used both, kept a 65mm one, and in moderate use am completely confident with its quality and durability.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=7929394">tom chow</a>, Dec 20, 2015; 06:51 p.m.</p>

 

<p><a title="" href="https://vimeo.com/14894129" data-skimwords-word="https%3A%2F%2Fvimeo.com%2F14894129" data-skim-creative="500005">https://vimeo.com/14894129</a></p>

 

</blockquote>

 

<p>I should point out that I do own and use a GX680. I disagree that it is a Studio only camera, I use it primarily in the field - maybe because I don't really have a studio... ;)</p>

<p>It is great to pack out in the field, set up on a tripod, an shoot with tilt and shifts (just like a 4x5). The SLR viewing, and self contained power sources make this a very spiffy field camera.</p>

<p>Hand held is another thing altogether. You certainly can hand hold it (ie: the link I previously gave), people have with much larger cameras (ie: Gowland), but the main reason for shooting this camera instead of, say a GW690, is the tilt and shift functions, which require precise setup to optimize the image plane and perspective (unless you are only interested in the "minature" look). I'd say this camera spends 99% of the time on a tripod, and since I've only shoot a few hundred frames on it...</p>

<p>The Graflex can also take 6x9 backs, so that gives you a nice mechanical option. But the GX680 reflex viewing is really quite nice, no changing film backs for the ground glass, easy low level viewing for focus plane confirmation, electronic cable release & mirror pre-release. </p>

 

"Manfred, there is a design problem with that camera...every time you drop it that pin breaks"
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<blockquote>

<p>How will you use movements handheld?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I understood that his intentions were not to do both simultaneously. He states:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I would love to be able to have one camera that could suit all my needs.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>...i.e. he wants something which can both be used on a tripod for movements, AND be taken around handheld for the kind of shooting he's been doing to date with his Mamiya 645 Pro.</p>

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<p>The 680 is a fascinating camera. Thanks for letting us see the Vimeo video Tom. Agree that the Fujifilm 690s cannot do the tilt and shifts, but by cheating and envisaging a 6 x 6 or 6 x 7 negative from the 690 you can tilt it to rectify to some degree keystoning and some other modified perspectives. I also like to shoot panorama 3 x 9 cm images with it. The CaptureTek guys had fun handholding the camera and benefitting from the movement cancelling effect of the Metz flash. Nice happy Toronto summer scene, possibly Yorkville?</p>
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Thanks for the responses all! I ended up going with a Mamiya RZ67. Still pushing the limits of hand-holdability, but a little

more reasonable. I figure I will probably acquire a proper view camera at some point in the future, but I figured that the RZ

would meet more of my requirements right now.

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  • 10 months later...
<p>The gx680 is my favourite camera. I prefer it whenever it is usable. Sadly that doesnt include when i need to shoot handheld. Sure enough, i do hold it by hand or semi supported in certain tricky situations, but only when i cant get the shot with the tripod.<br /><br />I have four cameras that can be used handheld with movements. <br /><br />1. The gx680. The mirror and screen is good, but i wouldnt want to use a smaller focusing screen than 8x8 to get it right. With the "winged strap" it may be possible to handhold it. I dont have such a strap though, so its a last resort.<br /><br />2. Linhof super technica 13x18. Nice grip and ok rangefinder, though it has to be recalibrated when changing the movements. There is no way to see what the movements does to the picture either. Not a good option either.<br /><br />3. Linhof super technicas 4x5". Same as above and lighter but harder to get the rangefinder calibration perfect.<br /><br />4. Mentor studio reflex. 9x12. Light wood SLR camera with ok grip. If you have a good 12x12 focusing screen and a nice mirror, this is the way to go. But only as long as you dont need wide anges. The back of the lens would hit the mirror with anything wider than a normal lens.<br /><br /><br /></p>
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  • 10 months later...

I just got mine and needed to fix some light leaks in the bellows and replace the back batteries before proceeding.

 

I'll say this: it looks massive but there's a lot of plastic and composites. It's heavier than a Mamiya RB, but it balances OKish in your left hand while you focus/shoot with the right. And for such a big camera there's no perceptible mirror slap, even if you don't use the lock-up. Everything is electronic and feels very, very damped; like shooting my Nikon D600; my old Pentax 67 was like shooting off a powerfull handgun in that respect.

 

That said, given the narrow DOF of the "normal" lenses I'd be most comfortable hand holding with 65 or 50 and Portra 400.

 

I'm planning to buy the 65 w/November's pension money, and will report back after I shot a roll walking about the neighborhood with it.

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Also, while on the subject, what is the lens selection like with the 680? Could I get the body, a couple backs, a wide, normal, and tele lens

for under $1500 or so?

 

All input is greatly appreciated, thanks!

Its contingent on the subject of shooting and whether you use digital backs. You have to buy a S version if your intention is to to shoot digitally, since its bit lighter than movements verison (movements cant renderd properly with digital backs).

Most of Gx680 lenses can be easily bargained under 200 USD (except probably the 50mm monster). Fuji lenses are cheap because they cant be used on any other system, but needle-sharp and impeccable in terms of image rendering. I'm quite sure 100mm f/4 outperforms most of Zeiss Hasselblad lenses. So yes, you can buy the whole lot under 1500 USD. I've just seen a full set of Fuji lenses for under 800 dollars on a local auction in Moscow.

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