Frustrated trying to roll 120 film around stainless steel real

Years and years and years ago I used to develop film I used to be able to load 120 reels like it was nothing 25 years later I can't even do it it's like don't even know how to get it underneath the clip looking for tips and advice.

The usual advice is to find a sacrificial roll and practice loading, first in daylight and then in the dark. Other common advice is to get a Hewes reel, but that's expensive.

I'm a die hard plastic reel fan but recalling you have to bend your film, the way it was not rolled to get it into steel reels? Maybe you can practise with either an old strip or a worthless ages ago expired roll by light? And yes, depending on the brand you want to process there might be huge thickness differences between Ilford and Kodak.

Yeah I got some freestyle photo stainless steel reels they're definitely not as good as Hewes.

 

I have a practice roll that I'm using it's just when I put it under the clip it seems all bunched up it doesn't look like the video that I'm watching.

 

I'm a practice some more and if it seems too difficult I may get plastic reels.

Practice is a really good idea, but as I said recently, it's unfortunately (for me, anyhow) not like getting back on a bicycle.

 

I did get some "easy loading" (they say) plastic reels, but haven't had a chance to try them yet.

Yes, avoid cheap "no name" stainless reels. Better to get Hewes or if you can find some used Nikor reels in good condition they would work well.

Went to my local camera store and played around with the plastic reels unbelievable how easy it is to put it on the plastic real why you would mess with stainless steel is beyond me I bought two plastic reels in a tank I'm set thank you for all of your guy's help.

Do NOT use the clip.

The problems is, you MUST position the film perfectly under the clip, or it will roll at an angle and kink.

I put the film in the center, not using the clip, hold the film with a finger and the film will self-center as I start to roll. It takes a bit of practice but once you get it, it works for both 35mm and 120/220 films.

 

He he, different strokes. I find plastic reels harder to load than stainless steel reels.

"Went to my local camera store and played around with the plastic reels unbelievable how easy it is to put it on the plastic real why you would mess with stainless steel is beyond me."

 

- Easy to say after a quick try in the light and with new, bone dry reels.

 

Come back when you've tried loading them on a hot, humid day in the confines of a changing bag and those plastic reels have accumulated a bit of chemical 'dirt'.

just practice with whatever you get. you'll be surprised how you learn to see by touch when in the dark.

So you're actually rolling the film on the stainless steel real without using the clip just rolling it around the real without the clip I may try that.

Weird thing is I got my plastic tank home from the camera store that holds two 120 reels their adjustable between 35mm and 120 the drawback is is when you put them both at 1:20 both of the reals don't fit in the tank you can only do one at a time it's like who is the brain dead person that designed this you cannot close the lid major design flaw.

Okay my bad after reading different sites and looking at different develop tanks it holds to 35mm but you can only process one 120 roll at a time you have to buy the tank that holds 3 35mm reels that will develop to 120 reels at the same time.

 

So my question is if I'm putting only one real in on the bottom of the tank put in the other real on top of it and then locking them together how much chemical do I need do I need just enough to cover over the top of the bottom real or do I fill the tank like halfway?

The clip should provide enough tension to hold the film, but not enough to be a barricade. Has the clip corroded to the middle axle or something? I dislike plastic because of the reasons above, but then again I literally rolled several hundred reels of 35mm and 120 per week so it became second nature.

 

IMO, 120 is easier with stainless than 35mm because 120 is easier to center. I'd rather load 120 on stainless than 220 on dip n dunk racks anyday.

Now there's nothing wrong with the clip there's no rosters no corrosion it's brand new I actually roll it around the real without using the clip and it seemed to go on okay do I really need to use the clip?

Now there's nothing wrong with the clip there's no rosters no corrosion it's brand new I actually roll it around the real without using the clip and it seemed to go on okay do I really need to use the clip?

 

I never use the clip.

When I did (many years ago), it usually created the off center feeding problem that lead to kinking the film.

IMHO, the clip was/is a poor solution to a perceived problem, and it created more problems than it solved.

I agree with you 100% the clip it doesn't work you're right it pinches the film and causes the film to Kink it's much easier to roll the film around the real without using the clip thanks for the tip great tip.

The trick is to hold the film several inches from the end and bend it slightly so the rails will position end of film in the middle when sliding it toward the open clip.

Okay my bad after reading different sites and looking at different develop tanks it holds to 35mm but you can only process one 120 roll at a time you have to buy the tank that holds 3 35mm reels that will develop to 120 reels at the same time.

 

So my question is if I'm putting only one real in on the bottom of the tank put in the other real on top of it and then locking them together how much chemical do I need do I need just enough to cover over the top of the bottom real or do I fill the tank like halfway?

Unless you are doing "Stand"...do not even go there...Fill it "All" the way..

Use the same amount of chemistry as you would for two rolls of film. Even with agitation, you want the film to remain in the chemistry at all times. You can practice with water. Just enough so you can see the water coming up out of the hole, when you have the lid off.

I THINK i use 22 Oz with a Paterson Tank. I usually use Stainless.

Anyway. Put both reels in the tank, screw on the light-tight lid, and pour in water until you see it come out the hole. Then you know you have enough to cover the top reel.

Pour THAT into a marked beaker and you will then know how much you need.

Good Luck

Thank you very much for the instructions yes I'm going to do a stand development with 30 seconds of vegetation in the beginning and 30 seconds of agitation at the 30-minute mark I'm going to go 60 minutes total.

But I will put both reels in and I will fill it up with water to see how much I need thank you

One last question if I turn one of my reels to 120 film the other one will only go to 35 why do I need to put both reels in there can I just put the 120 film reel on the bottom and there's like a long thing that goes down into the tank so the real if I put one real it cannot move up and down in the tank it always sits on the bottom.

Well guys I developed my first roll I did a stand development actually actually came out pretty good.

 

I did have trouble loading the plastic real in the dark in the light it seems so simple to do it but in the dark I struggled with it but I got it within 5 minutes but it wasn't as easy as I thought it was going to be I I thi II think the stainless steel reell without using the clip might be easier next development I'm trying that.

why you would mess with stainless steel is beyond me

I understand their fans value the ability to re-use them immediately instead of "tomorrow"? But yes, I am in your boat.

Pour THAT into a marked beaker and you will then know how much you need.

Better dig out some adhesive tape and mark your beaker with it. - Back in the days I used household scale substitute beakers with markings for ml / g of flour / salt and some more kitchen stuff and spotting the ml scale among all of them seemed hard and remembering numbers always is.

"Back in the days I used household scale substitute beakers with markings for ml / g of flour / salt...."

 

- How can anyone set about developing without proper measuring cylinder(s) or an accurate thermometer? A 1 litre + 50ml cylinder would be the minimum requirement I would have thought.

 

Not having measures accurate to 1ml rules out using T-max, HC-110 or any other highly concentrated stock developer. Or accurately making up powdered chemicals.

 

Not to mention the health risk of confusing domestic kitchen measures with those used for photo chemicals.

I bought myself a accurate digital thermometer that works very well.

 

I also have a 500ml beaker and a 50 ml beaker so I think it will should work fine.

 

My First Development last night was a stand development and the negatives came out pretty good.