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* FOLLOWUP * see thread - Film for Zeiss Icon Nettar 515/2


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Well, here they are in all their glory *lol*. I think they turned

out pretty nice, they are much sharper in life than I can reproduce

on a monitor, with jpeg and all. The originals were the scanned

negatives from my Canon 9950F at 4800dpi. You can see some

vignetting (?) but the center could be cropped into a very useable

square, I think. Please let me know what you think.

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I did'nt know really what to expect, as this was the first time I've ever used this camera - so the vignetting was a bit of a surprise. I did'nt use a lens hood, so it was'nt that. I noticed that red blotch as figure it was bleed through, might try some sort of tape or somehow keep the back dark when taking shots.

 

PS I hang my head in shame for the misspelling of "Ikon" ........ I'll be in the corner

 

lol

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I've got a hunch on the light fall-off. Since Reala isn't terribly intolerant of exposure errors the way transparency film would be, I wonder if you weren't just underexposing everything by around a stop, leading to too little density in the corners? If you're using a meter, try next time setting it to EI 64 or so with your Reala, see if that doesn't improve things. If not using a meter, spend some time getting to know the differences between "sunny" and "hazy" and between "cloudy bright" and "cloudy dull". Also, look carefully at the aperture scale; some of those are marked in such a way it's possible to err by most of a stop if you read from the wrong side of the pointer...
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Thanks Donald, I am using a light meter (and a grey card), but it's of vintage origins as well (Metraphot 3). I figured I was reading it right, but now that you mention it, I'm not sure if I'm reading it correctly or not as there is a black and an empty triangle on it. I was using the black one, as it seemed to be giving the more logical reading. Maybe I'll try the empty triangle setting next time, and see what happens.
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Keith, check it against a known value: Sunny 16. Set to an abritrary speed, read the gray card in direct sun with no haze, and you should get an exposure from one mark or the other at f/16, 1/ASA. If the sun is hazy, make it f/11, 1/ASA.

 

If you're not getting that reading, but (say) one stop smaller or faster, then it's the meter; the simplest way to compensate is simply to downrate the film -- set the meter at EI 50 instead of 100, say.

 

If you are getting that reading, then it might be worth checking to see what lens you have in your Nettar -- IIRC, the Novar-Anastigmat common on that model was a pretty standard Cooke type triplet, and as such could be prone to light fall-off at the corners of a 6x9 with a 105 mm focal length; it'll likely be better if you stop down some.

 

BTW, if the meter has two ranges, likely one mark is for the high range, the other for low (some selenium meters did this with a perforated cover that attenuated a calibrated amount of light, or a ND filter). Or it might be for reflected vs. incident.

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