Focusing Methods

I shoot weddings and portraits with a 30D. For portraits, I like my cheap Canon

50 lens an I also use my 28-135 IS. For weddings and events, I'll be getting

more (17-55, 70-200, etc) but I'm wondering what methods you use for

focusing..weddings especially.

 

I've been doing a lot of portraits and notice that I'm not getting the focus I

want. I use auto and rotate between using all focus points and just a select

one. But, I notice that quite a few of my shots aren't focused where I

intended. I try manual but it's hard for me get moving objects.

 

I'm wondering what tricks you use at weddings to get the focus you want. Do you

focus manually on a set pew during the procession and shoot when the walkers get

to that point? Rely on auto and have a way of setting the point quickly?

 

Ideas tricks/methods would help. Thanks!

Are you using the 50 1.4 and shooting at max aperture? If so, you'll have a very narrow in focus area. Try shooting at a smaller aperture. Also, the 1-series cameras AF capabilities are a big improvement over the 30D.

I wouldn't say there is any "trick" at all. It just takes practice and experience. You'll get it down eventually I'm sure. <p>

Yes, the autofocus system in the 1-series Canons is better, but there are plenty of photographers doing perfectly fine with the 30D/20D (including myself).<p>

The 50mm 1.4 lens has the better USM focusing than the cheaper 50mm 1.8. That "might" make a difference. Also, the 28-135mm has a variable aperture as you zoom, so it will have a smaller max aperture, let in less light, and make it a little harder to focus if you are in dim lighting. Of course, you can also always use the focus-assist beam on your flash.<p>

But I think the main thing is just keep practicing to get better at it.

I suggest you do some searching re focus on the 20D (since it will also apply to some extent to the 30D), plus on focusing with Canon cameras in general. There are many factors to consider if you aren't getting the consistent sharp focus you want. Among them, lens calibration, focusing point selection, camera focusing mode (DO NOT use AI Focus and be careful and practice if using AI Servo), DOF as it pertains to the focus/recompose focusing method, and lastly, but not least, the 20D's focus points being larger than what is marked, meaning the focus tends to shift to the background if you focus on the edge of a subject. Also--the 20D (don't know about the 30D) just plain backfocuses for no reason sometimes. Hard to know which of the above might be troubling you. The only thing I can say is, I never use the automatic mode to focus point selection, and during the processional, I do pre-focus on a spot and/or use zone focus.

Hi Mariah!

 

I like your lens wish list. It's exactly what I shoot with. I have two lens bodies, and I hardly ever have to remove a lens.

 

Always use the center focus spot, because it is far more sensitive than the other ones, particularly at maximum lens apertures below F5.6. Then recompose. The camera and flash will re-meter the scene based on where the center focal point ends up (most of the time) but if you shoot RAW, you can compensate for that later.

 

Get yourself some depth of field tables, or a depth of field calculator if you have a Pocket PC or laptop that you take with you. Jonathan Sachs has some excellent freeware:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~jonsachs/

 

Finally, for the processionals and recessionals, use zone focus with lots of flash. Here's a good article:

 

http://www.zuga.net/forums/showthread.php?p=136415&mode=threaded

 

Later,

 

Paul

"Always use the center focus spot, because it is far more sensitive than the other ones, particularly at maximum lens apertures below F5.6. Then recompose."

 

You have to be aware with this technique that it will result in back-focus, and it will be more pronounced the wider angle the lens. Why? because when you swing the camera to recompose, the focal plane swings too, and will swing behind the object you just used to focus. This might not be a problem, and you can compensate a little with which where you set the initial focus; but with a depth of field down to just an inch or so at f/1.4 it is noticeable.