FM2N Rewind lever got too much tension

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by hidi_heson, May 27, 2016.

  1. Very frustrating
    It seems that when I reach the end of the roll, when I can't push the film advance further, it creates too much tension between the roll and the spool, so that when I rewind, the other end of the film in the roll will fall out of the canister...
    I had no choice but to open the gate, and of course all the film got a good ole "double" exposure...
    Did I do something wrong?! does it happend to anyone, and how can I avoid it?!
    I wasted two rolls of film with good photos because of this.
    Should I just stop at 36 or 24, even if there is still film left ?
    For what is worth, at lease I got my film stock cheap.
     
  2. SCL

    SCL

    I've heard of others having this issue, mostly with older cameras and off-branded films. Although I've never encountered it, I routinely make a practice of stopping when I've hit the indicated number of exposures. I also suspect that some people who have encountered it have used a longer than normal leader causing the film to crowd the take-up spool. Thee tension should be a tactile sign that you shouldn't try to wind any more. However, all is not lost if you encounter the tightness. Instead of trying to rewind the film, use a changing bag or very dark room or closet at night, open the camera back and gently remove the film from the take-up spool and either put it into your development tank or gently reinsert it into the cartridge.
     
  3. thanks stephen.... another down side of mechanical cameras.... lots of moving parts, broke one... good luck.
     
  4. .... another down side of mechanical cameras....

    its not intended to use brute force
     
  5. the thing is that I wasn't even being "brute"...
     
  6. Heidi, I apologise in advance for suggesting this, but ..
    Are you sure you are fully depressing the rewind button in the base of the camera?
     
  7. I don't remember to be honest, but it may be very well that I forgot... will that cause this issue then?
     
  8. it may be very well that I forgot... will that cause this issue then?​
    Indeed. If you don't engage the rewind function you're trying to go in reverse while the transmission is still in drive.
    Henry Posner
    B&H Photo-Video
     
  9. Heidi, just in case, but Nikon still has the manual of the FM2 available as a PDF here. It describes steps as these step by step - it's a quick and simple read but it might just help getting better familiar with the camera.
     
  10. Yeah, another source for the manual is from http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_fm2/nikon_fm2.htm .
    If you download that, and read it carefully, you will be able to figure out a lot of the answers.
    I repeat, a lot of your problems seem to be from a lack of understanding of how film cameras work and how to use them. I again strongly recommend that you go on-line or to your local library and check out basic film camera books and on-line tutorials.
    Most of us are more than willing to help out, but your questions will be more fruitful if you have control of the basics. :)
     
  11. With my F3T, when I start feeling more resistance and know I'm at the end of a roll, and the film won't go any further, I immediately stop pushing and hit the "release" button on the bottom of the camera. I then just rewind the film. A couple of times I did pull a roll out of the canister. I simply took the camera home, went into a bathroom with no windows (and waited until after dark) and carefully put the film back into the canister.
    Kent in SD
     
  12. I have a FM2n and when I reach the end of the roll I can feel the tightness of the film in the advance lever. I do not try to squeeze out one more shot but instead immediately stop and rewind. I have never pulled the film out of the cassette but I think about it as I bulk load and it's up to me to attach the film to the spool well enough.
     
  13. Just like with all precision equipment, if it is binding DON'T FORCE IT. Likely bad things will happen.
    There are lots of little gears and cams in their and if you force things you can bend the cams and/or strip the gears. Even on the older Nikons, a few gears were made of plastic and not metal. Nikon actually made one of the gears in their MD-2 out of plastic and it would mate with a brass one. Guess which one lost over time. There were so many failures that eventually if you sent your MD-2 into Nikon for repairs that plastic gear was replaced with a brass one, which is what it should have been all along.
     

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