Jump to content

FM2n - Best lens choices


b_n_f

Recommended Posts

I have just ordered an FM2n. It will have a place next to my F100, N80 and D200.

 

My motivation was that I wanted a mechanical, rugged SLR. I originally was

going to re-go the Leica r6/6.2 route, but, frankly, the glass still costs too

much for a travel, seldom to be used MF system.

 

So, what are some good lens choice for the FM2n? I'll use my 1.4/50 AF,

clearly, but I'm not interested in hauling my other AF primes or constant

aperture AF zooms. (Too expensive to replace for this hobbyist.)

 

I'd like study metal lenses that can get banged around a bit. I'm thinking a

fast 28, maybe something wider too (24?), a fast mid tele (75 or 90) and two

zooms. (equivalents of 28-70 and 70-200 but the old stuff!).

 

Lastly, is there anything else that you would consider essential for the FM2n?

I imagine the MF16 date back ranks up there....

 

(Man it's nice to be back in a film, mechanical world for a change.....)

 

 

Ciao

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've gotta ask: So you bought expensive fixed aperture lenses so they can sit on your shelf? Do you collect cameras or shoot images?

 

That said, my essential list for older Nikkors includes:

 

- 20mm Nikkor of your liking

- 24mm f/2 or f/2.8

- 35mm Nikkor of your liking

- 105mm f/2.5 (actually a "gotta have").

- 180mm f/2.8

- 300mm IF ED Nikkor of your choice. (Depends on how much you need)

 

Other stuff: I really like the feel of the MD-12 motor drive more than any other drive/winder I own. It gives the camera a great feel. I also like a brighter ground glass system, like Beattie or one of those. I've never found a use for a data back though, unless it serves as a controller, like on an F4.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like small lenses on my small FE2 / FM2 cameras. Stay simple, one medium wide and one medium telephoto.

 

I have traveled the world with simple two-lens kits. Instead of thinking in terms of what you can't shoot, think about what you can. I find that I shoot for the lens on the camera, finding myself getting to the proper distance even before viewing. This comes from a minimal kit, where you really know the lens(es) versus a bag-o-glass that makes you keep thinking about the "other" lenses rather than the one on the camera.

 

Based on my real world experience, I can live very well with either of these two kits:

 

1. 24mm f/2.8 AIS and 85mm f/2.0 AIS

 

2. 35mm f/1.4 AIS and 105mm f/2.5 AIS

 

FWIW... I own every AI / AIS Nikkor from 20mm to 300mm, many in several speeds, but I can do 90% of everything I do with film Nikons with either of those two kits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The choice between 24mm and 28mm is personal, depending on how you view the world. So, you had stated, getting both may be appropriate if you haven't yet settled on a "world view." IMO, any of the 24mm or 28mm, f2.0 or f2.8, Ai or AIS would be good, EXCEPT for the 28mm/2.8 AI. Yes, there IS a difference between the 28mm/2.8 AIS (which is an awesome lens) and the 28mm/2.8 AI (which is not).

 

For a fast mid-tele, the easy answer is the 85mm/1.4 or 1.8, or the classic 105/2.5 (or even 1.8).

 

I will also suggest an excellent AIS zoom -- 50-135mm/3.5 AIS; unless you absolutely need f2.8 or faster, this zoom should be at or near the top of your list.

 

KL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great camera choice, Albert is right on the money here's my kit 24,35, 85, but I used a 180mm as well this was everything needed as a press and pr photographer in my day plus two FM's of course.

Michael and Albert I am interested in your choice of the 105 2.5 I have a 85mm 1.8 that is a fantastic lens but I havbe never used the 105mm 2.5 am I missing something. BTW the 35 mm lens was used for about 85% of the time.

 

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With no help from you on what you shoot, it's difficult. I'd get a 50/2 AI, a 100/2.8E series, maybe an AI'd 24/2.8--an all-round budget kit. An MD-12 and an E series grid screen might help, too. Data backs would be at or near the bottom of my "must have" list. Generally, the focus "feel" on AF lenses isn't great.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to agree a 45P on an FM2/FM3a is a tight package. I often use a MD-12 on these

bodies too as it gives my big hands a better grip on the camera, but it all depends on what I

plan to shoot. I love shooting with the FM3a but since mine is in mint condition I really hate

to take it out and get it banged up. I have far too many other bodies to choose from

anyways. Besides since picking up my F6 my other Nikon film bodies aren't getting much

use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another enthusiastic vote for the Nikkor 105 2.5 (get one of the last versions if you can).

It's a fantastic lens, perfect for portraiture, landscape and travel photography, and it

balances perfectly with the FM bodies. For travel I would usually carry the FM2n (or the F3)

with a 24 2.8, a 50 1.4 and the 105 2.5.......it would all fit in a small Domke bag that I

could carry all day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No new ground, but I have to concur with many of the recommendations for the 105 f2.5. The AI or AIS versions are both excellent. That lens, and MF primes in general, really epitomize Nikons manual focus gear.

 

Sergio acutally duplicated one of my favorite kits. An FM with 24mm f2.8, 50mm f1.4 and 105mm f2.5. You can cover an awful lot with that trio. Drop a CL3T closeup lens into the bag and you can turn the 105 into a poor-man's macro lens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the 50mm f/2 AI Nikkor is a classic for the FM2N, but it's not expensive or sexy. It's a sorta bargain basement alternative to the 45mm f/2.8.

 

If I could have only one the 35mm f/1.4 would be a nice choice. But I ain't paying what some dealers ask for a dusty used sample.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Albert on focal length choices, but I prefer the fastest variants (e.g. 24/2.0 coupled with 85/1.4; 35/1.4 coupled with 105/1.8).

 

I'll also note that if you're interested in 'heavy metal', many of these lenses are available in pre-AI versions with scalloped metal (sometimes called 'hill and dale') focus rings and aperture rings, not rubber. Some of the pre-AI versions have been subsequently "AI'd" or modified to work with AI metering. Just an option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too bought an FM2n (and later an F3HP) at some point as a compact mechanical alternative

to the big DSLRs... and proceeded to buy all new primes to go along with it even though I had

a full complement of AF primes. With the FM2n I wanted smaller ones, basically.

 

Previous posters have mentioned some good choices. I just wanted to add the Voigtlander

Ultron 40/2 to the list... it's my default lens these days, usually paired with a 24/2.

 

j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<I>Vivitar Series 1, 28-90 f/2.8-3.5....and, the Kiron 28-105 f/3.2-4.5,...</I><P>

 

A variable aperture zoom is less than fun with a fully manual match-diode camera. A zoom can be faster than primes as far as framing, but if you need to tweak the aperture after each zoom action, that speed is not as good as it seems.<P>

 

If a zoom is desired, look for constant aperture ones (28-50mm f/3.5 AIS Nikkor, or the very fine 75-150mm f/3.5 Series E for example), so that after you set the f-stop and shutter speed, you can zoom freely and know that f/5.6 is always f/5.6.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, we want to know what you like to shoot and where indoors or outdoors.

 

I like the 28/2 and the 85/1.8 and a 135/2 the 24mm tests Bjorn says are so so. 28mm might be enough anyway for a wide angle since the Nikon pro zooms started in the old days at 28 or 35.

 

One thing I have the 45/2.8 which was made by Voigtlander and now they came out with an updated faster version thats 40 f2.0 its more complicated design that might be worth adding even with your 50/1.4.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...