FM Battery Issue

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by exaktamoment, Oct 5, 2017.

  1. I am the proud owner of e recently acquired Nikon FM. The first thing I did was to acquire some fresh batteries for the camera (Eveready 357) because I was sure the batts in the camera would dead. And they were. The problem arose when I went to check the operation of the light meter system (which is the only thing the batteries are used for) - it appeared not to work.

    To make a long story short, I checked and double checked the batteries to make sure I had put them in properly, yet when the battery cover/holder is screwed in tight, the light metering does not work.

    If I screw the cover/holder in LOOSELY, it DOES work. But tightened? No go.

    Has someone had experience with this? And fixed it?

    Help?

    Lou
     
  2. Take a pencil eraser and clean both the base of the battery cover(where the batteries contact it) and the contact strap inside the battery chamber. This will cure many ills in cameras that use button batteries.
     
  3. Another possibility though at bit more expensive would be to find an MD-12 for it. For me it makes the camera easier to handle and the batteries in the motor drive also power the meter.

    Rick H.
     
  4. Whether the motordrive improves handling, is personal preference. I'd absolutely wouldn't want one on a FM/FM2, makes a nicely portable camera a clunky heavy thing. Ben's tip should do the trick, it worked on my F3 which suffered a similar quirk once.
     
  5. Not! The MD-12 doesn't power any camera. The only Nikon that can be powered by a motor drive is the F3 and the MD-4
     
  6. By the way the problem seems easy to fix. It's only at the battery compartment. Removing the base plate should reveal the problem.
     
  7. Really BeBu? I thought the MD-12 also powered the meter in the FM. Oh well, learned something new today. Wouter you are right, it is a personal preference. My hands are fairly big though and the motor drive and battery grips have always suited me, given the camera a better balance in my hands.

    Rick H.
     
  8. I am not sure about the Canon as I am not a Canon user but I think the Canon New F1 motor drive does provide power to the camera. However, in the Nikon the MD-4 is the only one that does that. Nikon does it because at the introduction of the F3 so many people who were using F2 (including myself) dislike it because without batteries it simply not working (with 1 speed that's no good) so Nikon made the MD-4 that can provide power to the F3 so that pros wouldn't worry about dead batteries in the camera. The AA batteries in the MD-4 are easy to get. Nikon even made a battery pack the screw in to the F3 battery compartment so that you can have the battery pack in the pocket to keep it warm.
    Over the years the F3 has proven it's reliability well and there is no longer a concern about a camera being battery dependent. The F3 is my favorite camera after getting to know it I love it. It's a simple camera and does its job well.
    So for the OP buying the MD-12 isn't an option but I think since he moving the position of the battery cap can sometimes make it work then the loose connection is right there at the battery compartment so it shouldn't be difficult to fix.
     
  9. The motor drive can only power the camera when used with the High Speed Power Pack FN(rechargeable NiCd) and the C-FN connecting cord. The latter replaces the "palm grip" on the right of the body that also serves as the battery door, and has a PX-28 shaped appendage to fit in the battery compartment. It connects to the high speed Ni-Cd via a short cable with a coax-type connector on the front. The standard pack with 12 AA cells does not have the connector, nor does the standar(not high-speed) Ni-Cd pack.

    I have two functioning set-ups(one for each of my New F-1s) with rebuilt Ni-Cd packs(one rebuilt with NiMH, the other with NiCds-there are arguments for using both). At one time, I did a decent business on Ebay buying dead packs and rebuilding them-8 or 9 years ago I would pay $40 or so for a dead pack, charger, and cord, rebuild them, and get $100 or so for a working set-up.

    I used New F-1s for quite a while and I think that a lot of my general dislike of the F3(which I've voiced here) comes back to my familiarity with the New F-1 and consequently a strong preference for its operation(the two did compete with each other when current). I think the F3/MD-4 combination is far superior, though. Aside from powering the camera without using a cable that looks like an afterthought, it also manages 5fps with 8 alkaline cells(the Motor Drive FN requires the Ni-Cd pack with 12 AA-sized cells to do 5fps-with the12 cell alkaline pack it can only do 4.5fps).
     
  10. Well while I like the F3/MD-4 a lot but giving credit where credit due the MD-4 only capable of 3.8fps with 8AA. To get 5.5fps you have to use the MN-2 battery pack (of course it fit in the same place as the 8AA holder) but inside are 14 NiCad batteries that deliver 16.8V.
     
  11. It's the battery compartment issue that when tightening the button battery in holder to camera body plus and minus contacts actually shorten by the holder internally so battery will die quickly and meter won't work as a result, solution, cut a piece of thicker regular paper in round shape about same diameter as the holder (inner) and place it btw battery and holder then screw it back in tight, all done.
     
  12. The paper cut is donats or screw washer shaped with center opened

    20171009_184846.jpg
     
  13. Thanks. I'll try that right away.
     
  14. Silly question... is this the right size for the hole reinforcers you can get for ring binders? If so, they're an easy source of circular bits of paper with a hole in the middle. Just in case that saves effort.

    If it's the wrong size, ignore me.
     
  15. obviously it should work without the the ring so the cap is defective? I wonder if you can find a good cap and fix the problem correctly?
     
  16. Original battery cell from Japan was one piece (not confirmed but I do see one) instead of two button cells stacked together, then there's a small chance of battery dimension deviation from batch to batch time to time that the one on bottom not sitting perfectly to cause shortening as found out myself over years (not on one body) that only one of two cells gone dead zero and the other still full. In another word, it may be of "defective" battery not the holder.
     
  17. 1 piece or 2 pieces I have used them on the FM2, FM, FE, F3, F2 without any problem. There must be something wrong with the cap if that is the case. You can buy the 1 piece battery if you want.
     
  18. Just checked, and the hole reinforcers I have are too large in diameter to fit in the battery holder. It's close, but not quite right.
     
  19. Darn. Oh well, I tried to help. :)
     
    exaktamoment likes this.
  20. It was a great idea and I was almost sure you were right.
     

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