Flash with Rolleiflex 6x6

<p> I have a Rolleiflex 3.5 F and am getting a Nikon SB 800 flash in a few days. Since the flash can be zoomed to different fl's which fl should I choose on the flash, 80mm which is the actual fl of the lens or 50mm since the 80mm is a normal lens for 6x6?</p>

<p>DaveO</p>

The latter. You should match the angle of view, make the flash unit fill that with its output. So set the thing to 50 mm is you are using a lens that has a similar angle of view as 50 mm lenses on 35 mm format, such as an 80 mm on 6x4.5 or 6x6.

<p> Thanks, I thought the 50mm fl length was correct, but I thought I'd check with someone else. Unlike digital you don't see the results right away on film.</p>

<p>DaveO</p>

<p>If you have a Nikon digital or film SLR camera, getting SB800 is your best choice.<br>

Getting SB800 for Rolleflex 6x6 perhaps is not a good idea.</p>

<p>Frank -- what's a better choice? I've often thought of getting a flash to use with my Rollei's - instead of dragging out a strobe.</p>

<p>Getting SB800 for Rolleiflex 6x6 costs you for features that you will never use.</p>

<p>E.g. to mention a few (not a complete list): CLS commanding/Remote flash faatures, Multiflash CLS, Auto CLS FP fast sync features, Auto iTTL for Digitals, Auto D_TTL for older first generation Nikon digitals, film TTL for Nikon selected film cameras, auto flash head zoom adjustments, etc.</p>

<p>For these you will need to pay about $400 for used to $500. If you can justify the cost, - then get the SB800, it will retain the resale value, and could possibly serve if you get Nikon's camera in the future. </p>

<p>Otherwise, for the Rolleiflex 6x6, perhaps you could be satisified with a flash that has variable power settings, and thyristor based sensor on flash Auto exposure. Flash with features like that, that you could possibly use on Rolleiflex, costs about $50 to $100.</p>

Or less. Look into the Metz 45 CT-1 units.<br>The last one i bought (some years ago) i paid about US$ 10 for. You can still find them for that sort of money.<br>Being a handle mount unit suits the TLR well. And even though it is the most basic of all Metz 45-series units, it offers automatic mode as well as full manual. Hard to beat.

<p>Not considering the handle mount flashes, the best candidate flash for Rolleiflex 6x6:<br>

$82.<br>

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-285HV-Auto-Professional-Flash/dp/B00004TVSP/ref=sr_1_31?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1323201403&sr=1-31">http://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-285HV-Auto-Professional-Flash/dp/B00004TVSP/ref=sr_1_31?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1323201403&sr=1-31</a></p>

<p>see others on Amazon, B&H, Adorama, Keh, etc.</p>

 

<p>Frank -- thanks for that -- I'm going to order one from B&H and figure out how to use it with my Rolleiflex -- there have been times when some nice fill would have done wonders.</p>

<p>Quick question -- it looks like I can pick up a PC cord (PC-31) from B&H -- I'm wondering how people juggle the flash and the camera? I suppose I would get focus about where I wanted it -- and then raise the flash in one hand -- and then look through the viewfinder and sort of move back and forth until I have focus - and then use my right hand to fire the shutter.<br>

Does that sound about right? (Yes, I know I could use a tripod -- but I don't like them much).</p>

<p>Would something like this work as a flash bracket with either a 3.5F or 2.8F?</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/105119-REG/Stroboframe_310_900_Camera_Flip_Bracket.html</p>

It could, depending on its size.<br>The Vivitar and a bracket like that... would have bought about 12 perfectly fine Metz 45 CT-1 units. Maybe only 6, if not so lucky to find ones as cheap as i did. ;-)

<p>Some people like the "Rollei locking tip" on their sync cord. See tip # 3.<br>

http://www.paramountcords.com/categories.asp?cat=28<br>

By the way, I fear you are the only one with a 3.5/80 mm. Other 3.5 owners had to settle for 75 mm. :-)</p>

<p>You may also want to look at acquiring a Rolleifix. This will give you a quick release from the flash bracket or tripod and helps avoid any damage to the camera back.</p>

<p>If you're going shoeless, I'd really look into a wireless trigger. I typically house the small transmitter in a neoprene filter pouch tethered to my strap and the flash tethered to my wrist. I can briefly hang the flash from my wrist while focusing and immediately grab it when I need it. Takes a bit of practice but it's manageable. Stopping down a bit and scale focusing will speed things up if the shot requires it.</p>

<p>As for brackets, my favorite for the Rollei is <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.veachco.com/j-120.htm" target="_blank">the Jones bracket</a> . Another interesting option is to modify a rolleiflash bracket to take a standard cold shoe with a small flash. It sure beats lugging all that steel around. :) Just make sure you get the correct bayonet size for your camera.<br>

Have fun.</p>

<p>For some reason you mentioned that did not want to bring strobes with you, and I assumed the shoe mount flash you need, that is why I recommended Vititar shoe mount.</p>

<p>However, since the Relleifles 6x6 is a square format camera, a small size light weight handle mount flash is better (in my opinion).<br>

You do not want any rotating arm flash bracket for a square format camera. The bracket will add weight, and could easily amount to the Metz flash recommended by Q.G. His recommendation is better than Vivital for square medium format camera. I only recommended shoe mount Vivitar, because you mention did not want a strobe.</p>

<p>Now since you kow better, reconsider getting handle mount Metz for your 6x6.</p>

<p>If you get a Vivitar, it comes with a PC sync cord. Vivitar PC sync cords for my old Vivitars are custom Vivitar made, a different type plug, and ordinary PC sync cords may not be suitable for Vivitars.</p>

<p>To get back to the original question, you might need to use your flash set to a wider angle if it has a rectangular coverage pattern. (I don't know if the coverage really is rectangular with modern flashes, but they sure look as though they're trying to be.) If the flash has less vertical than horizontal coverage, then you need to think of 6x6 as a crop from 6x9, and 80mm on 6x9 is pretty much the same as a 35mm lens (not a 50mm lens ) on 24x36, where you'd still need the 35mm setting to illuminate the top and bottom of the frame with a 35mm lens even if you only used a 24x24mm crop for your print. Again, assuming these newfangled things throw a rectangular pattern.<br>

Back in my day, flashes were nice and circular and you didn't have to worry about this; it was all about the diagonal.</p>

 

<p>I think the Metz (looking at a Metz Mecablitz 45 CL-1) looks to fit the bill. It comes with a bracket (I have a Rolleifix) - and does the basic STUFF I want to do.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>i would like to contribute 2 pennies here. i am not familiar with Nikon flashes. but most flashes designed for 135 format have a rectangular field of illumination. therefore if you zoom to 50mm (standard for 135), and use it on a square format camera, there is a possibility that the top and bottom part of your film is not illuminated by the flash. it would be better if you zoom your flash to 35mm (slightly wide for 135). you may want to experiment on your camera first by doing a test roll. Cheers. Tak</p>

<p> I was wrong, my lens on the Rolleiflex 3.5F is a 75mm Planar. I also have a Nikon D 80, FM2n and an F6 so the features on an SB 800 would not be wasted. I am currently using a Nikon SB 22s which gave me some trouble two weeks ago by going off by itself three times. It may have been because I had a sync cord attached to it but not to a camera.</p>

<p>DaveO</p>

<p> I was wrong, my lens on the Rolleiflex 3.5F is a 75mm Planar. I also have a Nikon D 80, FM2n and an F6 so the features on an SB 800 would not be wasted. I am currently using a Nikon SB 22s which gave me some trouble two weeks ago by going off by itself three times. It may have been because I had a sync cord attached to it but not to a camera. I use a Nikon SC 15 sync cable and also an aluminum base like bar with a handle on one side and a tripod bolt on the other to hold the Rolleiflex.</p>

<p>DaveO</p>