Flash Bracket Question...

I did some searching, and found most what I wanted. Hopefully I don't

get beat too badly. This seemed to be the best forum to ask.. :)

 

I have a Canon 20D and a 580EX flash. I DO NOT have a battery grip

nor plan on getting one.

 

I've looked at two flash brackets, the CB Junior Flash Rotating

Bracket and the Stroboframe Press-T Bracket. Both look very similar,

but I noticed the CBJ has a flip out leg to let it sit up on a table

which seems cool.

 

I also would be getting the Off Camera Shoe Cord 2 to retain E-TTL2

compatability. Last, I read I should get the Bogen 3298 adapter for

wear purposes on the bracket.

 

My questions finally are this, am I missing anything that will bolt

all this together?

 

Second, any opinions from someone who's owned either bracket,

especially the CB Junior would be greatly appreciated.

 

As a side note, a good recomendation on a book that well explains

best ways for flash orientation with and without brackets would be

appreciated as well.

 

On my film camera, I never used a flash and was always happy with my

results. The digital world for some reason seems so much more

compliated for me.

 

Thanks much!!!

 

-Mario

I handled every flash bracket I could get my hands on last year. This isn't the sort of thing that's easy to settle on by looking at a catalog so I wanted to buy locally. I tried most of the Stroboframes and none of 'em quite did the trick for me.

 

The full sized Custom Brackets are great but heavy and expensive by the time you get done adding all the necessary bits.

 

The last bracket I tried was the one I bought - the CB Junior. It's more rigid than the comparable Stroboframes and was more resistant to twisting, needing only friction - no anti twist plates needed for the camera body. It's a couple ounces heavier than the comparable Stroboframes but not enough to matter.

 

In practice it works very well. There's plenty of clearance on the right side to grip a large camera normally. I can access all of the controls on my D2H, including in the vertical position, something I couldn't quite do with most of the Stroboframes.

 

The pivoting top plate is predrilled with four holes, making it a snap to find the perfect alignment for your flash in horizontal or vertical orientation. There's even enough clearance to mount two flashes side by side if desired for the extra output, altho' this would be awfully heavy.

 

The flip-out leg really helps keep the camera from tipping over. The top plate pivot is very smooth and wobble-free, spring loaded to resist flopping around. The spring resistance could be a bit stiffer for my tastes but it's still not bad at all.

 

The bracket includes a tripod socket so the entire rig could be mounted on a tripod or monopod. I'm betting it could be rigged with a QR plate too, altho' I haven't tried this.

 

A few nits...

 

Wrangling the bracket and camera together is a bit of a juggling act. You'll need a quarter or a nickel to turn the flush mounted bolt. I'd like it better if it included a flush mounted bolt with a flip-out twist lever. Practice on the floor or a bed first 'cause you'll probably drop the coin a few times and cuss a bit. Once it's on, tho', it stays on. The large rubber-cork strips really grip the soft rubbery armor clad bodies of most dSLRs and AF SLRs.

 

While the camera-to-bracket fit doesn't really need an anti-twist plate, it would help with the flash itself. I've been using double stick tape to keep my flash from twisting around and while it works, it ain't elegant. I'll probably break down and spring for an anti-twist plate.

 

You have to be careful to wrap the cord around the foam rubber clad grip to avoid pinching the cord when flipping the top plate from horizontal to vertical and back. An expensive cord could be damaged if it's pinched under the full weight of the bracket's top plate and a large flash unit. After a few experiments I came up with a wrap and twist-tie method that keeps the cord safely away from the pinch point.

 

All in all an excellent bracket, especially for use with a large camera. No regrets.

Mario,

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The Off-Camera Shoe Cord 2 may be mounted with a screw (I guess this is the best way) or in a shoe-mount. While the CB Jr has several holes to mount the SC2, I don't remember it includes a screw to mount the flash cord, so you may think about buying the CN-JR Anti Twist Plate. This small piece will help your SC2 to stay aligned with the camera axis (the SC2 has one stright side and an uneven side, so you need to be careful on the side you install it if using the anti-twist plate).

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One good thing of the Canon flash system is the short length SC2: It is just thie right size for a flash bracket, while the Nikon cords are better suited for larger applications, so it's easier to keep your cable of being pinched. (While I'm a Canon user, like you, I believe the Nikon flash system is quite superior to Canon's, but I didn't choosed my system because of the flash).

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This week I'm doing some tests with a 580EX and a 420EX mounted on the CB Jr, the 580EX connected with a SC2 to a 20D and pointing up, and the 420EX as slave and pointing forward as a fill in around 4:1 ratio (according to the Canon wireless system, where the existing light isn't considered for the ratio). The rig is quite heavy, but the results so far are very good. I will let everybody in the forum if I ever try it at a (long) paid event.

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Ruben

I hold the camera in the right hand, the flash in the left. I've got a collection of expensive fancy brackets that contort every which way. It's easier to not use one. When I was shooting 120 square format I used a Jones bracket. It got the flash directly over the lens but didn't flip to the side.

What you need to know about flash brackets is this--does it work for you and your gear? That's it. There are many, many different flash brackets because people like different things about them and have different needs for gear and use of the gear. Some people like the ones you mention, others don't. You're just going to have to make a short list, like you have, get one or two and try them out. Getting opinions is good but doesn't really make the decision for you. What bugs you about them may not be the same things that bug others. A lot of it you won't find out until you use them on a job. The search for the perfect flash bracket is endless, as you will find out. I have about five or six flash brackets, maybe more, actually that I've acquired over the years for both my 35mm and medium format systems.

 

As for a book that explains flash orientation--no such thing. A lot depends on what modifiers you intend to use. Some can only work in one flash head orientation, others are more flexible. One basic consideration is whether to keep the long aspect ratio in sync with the long aspect ratio of the camera (portrait mode). Some brackets, like a Custom Bracket, keeps the flash stationary and turns the camera, so that when the camera is in portrait mode, the flash head is still in horizontal mode. Usually doesn't make much difference if using a modifier or bouncing, but when you use the flash direct, it may. On the other hand, with that kind of bracket, you can use a Lumiquest 80/20, and you can't with the kind that flips the flash.

 

If you bounce, you can usually get away without using a bracket. If you don't, or for the times you need to use the flash direct, you get side shadows on portrait shots. Whether this is OK with you will determine whether you can shoot a wedding without a bracket. The Lightsphere is actually designed to be used without a bracket, although you can use one with it anyway.

 

Hope this helps and isn't too confusing.

Brackets are a necessary evil, and are heavy PIA's. They do cast shadows low and behind most subjects though, and eliminate the dreaded "red-eye" while evenly lighting the overall scene.

 

Keeping the light high, and over the lens on a bracket is an ideal location for a "fill" light only.

 

The bad news is that the main light still needs to be off the lens axis, or the results are flat and 2D. So brackets have severe limitations.

Mario,

I use Press-T's on our 20D with a 580 and Mark II's. One biggy that I haven't heard

mentioned was battery access. Stroboframes PressT means you have to pull off the bracket

to replace the camera battery. Thats a pretty big factor. (BTW, the Press-T has a leg also)

We purchased a CustomBracket system for it, but the 20D is used by my wife. She's a

petite girl and struggled with the bracket. Watching her struggle with a bracket at a

wedding isn't what I want to do so it's up for sale now in the classifieds. I haven't tried the

CB Junior so I can't comment on that. The press T and the custom bracket both have

mounting plates and the custom bracket requires a hot shoe attachment. Be sure to keep

an extra Off shoe cord 2 with you just in case. Hope some of this helps.

Jeffrey

Thanks everyone, everything here was very helpful.

 

Nadine, the reason I asked a good book was (I have read the EOS Flash Bible) I never know the best time I can use flash pointing straight forward. I know there are rules of thumb, but I'm and anti-flash person and I don't get enough flash practice in to know better.

 

I do plan on taking a creative lighting course and that was one big reason for needing the bracket and cord.

 

-Mario

You might find the following interesting.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007gWH&tag=

 

It is old but full of interesting bits about using the Pro-T. One of the bits is something that should be brought up. That is that over time, if you use the clamp type units to hold the Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord in place, the hot shoe end on the cord will give out--either snap off or crumble. I found that to be true. I now use the 1/4 20 hole in the shoe cord to attach to a bracket. You might do some other searches. There have been a few other posts re the Pro/Press T and battery access, etc.

Mario, I'm in a similar position. I'm going to get a 30D and one 580EX (the kit that B&H

sells (580EX Speedlite E-TTL II Shoe Mount Flash with Quantum Turbo Battery, Charger &

Connecting Cable). I shoot mostly PJ, so my thought was to get the CB QRS-35-PJ bracket.

If anyone has thoughts on this one I'd greatly appreciate the comments. What am I

missing? Also, does the Canon off camera shoe cord 2 have E-TTLII compatibility. I'm

guessing so, but before I invest I'd like a confirmation. I greatly appreciate any help

anyone can give me. J

I believe the Off Camera Shoe Cord 2 to retain E-TTL2 compatability...

 

Any takers?

 

-Mario