bryan_andregg Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 I used my M7 with a flash for the first time this past weekend at a friends wedding and rehersal dinner. I had a Vivitar 2800 on the M7 which worked pretty darn good for a first time setup. The only problem I had with exposures was that there was noticable Red-Eye in picutres of people facing the camera when the flash was used. I know what Red-Eye is, and I know how to prevent it in general (move the flash off camera, bounce the flash, etc.), but I want to know what most people do. I was using two cameras at the same time, so having to hand hold the flash off camera seems out as an option, and a bracket eliminates the whole reason that I shoot with my little M's in the first place. Advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank uhlig Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Apparently there is no cure for your problem, since handholding the flash up above is ruled out by you, as is getting a flash bracket. Maybe someone makes a "stick" with flash contacts below and flash shoe above to extend the height of your flash. Maybe you could use a flash whose flash window is higher up than the one of the V 2800. (Note that all of this refers only to horizontal mode compositions.) And now a more serious question: - without a flash bracket - how do you like those shadows on the side of people's faces in vertical shooting orientation? That is the real reason to get a bracket, in my book. But you have ruled the cure out already. Actually look at the small brackets (4.5 inches if i recall correctly) of Stroboframe, a Leica body might just fit under its bar ... Go and measure one to see. And good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen_w. Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 OT: I inquired whether using the 2800 on the M7 is safe. After some research, I found that the trigger voltage of the flash is 250V; much higher than the maximum recommended for the TTL/M7. Evidently, you had no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_kaplan1 Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 I usually hold my M in my right hand, a Vivitar 283 in my left, and use no bracket The flash is always over the lens, high enough to avoid red eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 And the shadows from Al`s subjects fall on the wall below where they are visable. Recommend Stroframe Flip bracket if you are not coordinated. Also add Sto-Fen diffuser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hans_berkhout Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 If you notice a person in your shot with only one red eye there is a problem: could be an eyetumor like retinoblastoma (kids!) in the non-red eye, or it could be a prosthesis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uhooru Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 I've been using a stroboframe flip bracket with a SF20 and the Lutz shade deal. Works pretty good. Still looks like flash in dark rooms but the Lutz tones it down a bit. The braket works great, and is very conveniant. I got it because I didn't like holding the flash in one hand and shooting at those times when a flash is neccessary. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben z Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Thing called a Mini Softbox by Lumaquist. It goes on the flash with velcro and fans the light out just enough that I never get red eye. It does shorten your maximum working distance from the subject, so if you're shooting from 20 feet away with a 90 or 135mm and less than 400 speed film, forget it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank uhlig Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Oops, the small height (4 1/2) inch brackets are made by STRATOS; google for that, NOT Stroboframe. Mea culpa ... my error .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan flanders Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 1. Buy a f=1.0 lens and forget flash, relying on available darkness. 2. Buy a copy of Photoshop and quit worrying about redeye. 3. Quit shooting weddings for pay unless assured a well lighted venue. 4. If you are too cheap to buy Photoshop then learn how to retouch negtives and prings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan flanders Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 1. Buy a f=1.0 lens and shoot only in available darkness. 2. Buy a copy of Photoshop and correct the exposures accordingly. 3. Don't shoot weddings unless assured adequate lighting. 4. Learn to retouch negatives and prints to elliminate the undesireable consequences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan flanders Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 I beg your pardon, I didn't promise you no rose garden , and we all get confusd by the procedures onece in a while. Mea culpa runneth orver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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