Flare across frames w/ Nikkor 20mm/f2.8 AF

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by salvatore.mele, Sep 25, 2004.

  1. I know I should not, but every now and then I shot with the sun in the frame with the 20/2.8. Often I've then to bin the result, but it never happened to me that the flare went all the way into the previous frame! I know a thing or two of basic optics, and I did not even think this was possible at all... Feedback and comments would be appreciated
    009b36-19785584.jpg
     
  2. I guess the light may have travelled through the film base (lightguide)?
     
  3. Something about this image suggests uncut color negative film, and not slide film. Why the flare should cross over to the previous frame, yet not darken the border adjacent to the frame in question is strange. If this is negative film, it would be interesting to see the untouched negatives.
     
  4. Alex, this is indeed negative film, Fuji Superia 400, what I should have mentioned in the original post.

    I've scanned the strip, got the two individual frames, and just pasted them together, one close to the other, as they appear on the strip.
     
  5. Can you scan the negative of the mast with the flare, including the two adjacent frames exactly as they were in the camera? I think we need to see this to determine tne cause.
     
  6. This is very typical and there is nothing much that can be
    done other than not placing a very strong light source like the
    sun near the edge of the frame. If you must compose this way
    leave a blank frame in between shots. Remember that the image is
    upside down and backwards right to left in the back of your
    camera so take this into consideration when leaving blank frames.<br>
    <br>
    What you are seeing is internal camera flare, reflections around
    the film aperture and shutter (that is the film aperture not the
    lens aperture).<br>
    <br>
    You can reduce or perhaps element the ghost pattern that are more
    to the middle of the frame by using a 20/3.5, 28/2.0 AI or AIS
    Nikkor or a 16/2.8 AIS of AF-D Fisheye-Nikkor.<br>
    <br>
    Regards,<br>
    <br>
    Dave Hartman.
     
  7. Sorry that should have been...<br>
    <br>
    You can reduce or perhaps eliminate the ghost patterns that are
    more to the middle of the frame by using a 20/3.5, 28/2.0 AI or
    AIS Nikkor or a 16/2.8 AIS or AF-D Fisheye-Nikkor.<br>
    <br>
    Gees, three errors in one sentence.
     

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