Film Camera Week for May 4

Discussion in 'Classic Manual Cameras' started by Mike Gammill, May 3, 2018.

  1. Greetings everyone and welcome to our new thread. As always, post all the images you want from your film camera. I'll start with some images from a roll of Ilford HP5+ that I processed and scanned earlier in the week.
    upload_2018-5-3_4-52-37.jpeg
    Late afternoon outside bookstore, Minolta XE-5 with 35mm f 2.8 MD Celtic, deep yellow filter
    upload_2018-5-3_4-54-22.jpeg
    ready for trailer, XE-5 with MC Rokkor 50mm f 1.7
    upload_2018-5-3_4-56-9.jpeg
    late afternoon sun outside Olive Garden, XE-5 with 35mm MD Celtic
    upload_2018-5-3_4-59-29.jpeg
    iron pig, XE-5 with 50mm f 1.7
    upload_2018-5-3_5-1-16.jpeg
    Chevelle (a '72 I think) Parking so congested I couldn't get a view of whole car, XE--5 with 50mm
     
  2. Brick lane Cotton District, Starkville, Mississippi. Nikon F6, Zeiss Milvus 50/1.4, B+W 022 medium yellow filter, 400TX. 2018 ab&w 6 -34.jpg
     
  3. Restaurants off an alley in Cotton District. F6, Milvus 50/1.4, 022, 400TX. 2018 ab&w 6 -28.jpg
     
  4. Bin 612. F6, Milvus 50/1.4, 022, 400TX. 1018 ab&w 6 -26.jpg
     
  5. Neat small building, Cotton District. F6, Milvus 50/1.4, 022, 400TX. 1018 ab&w 6 -25.jpg
     
  6. Golden oldie

    [​IMG]
    Taken at Fort IJmuiden back in 2013,
    Graflex Speed Graphic with Graphic 23 film holder, Ektar 100
     
  7. First photo on an Agfa Billy Compur. Raw and out of focus scan made with an HP G4050 scanner (i plan to get an Epson V550). Development problems (plan to sell my stainless steel tank and get a Patterson - i have no talent for winding spools!). All photos on the roll seem under exposed. This was shot I believe at f/11 and 1/250. Other shots at f/16 1/400 have similar underexposure. I used a Nikon F2 with a 50mm lens as a light meter and distance checker. Ilford HP5+ 400 film (50 or 100 ASA film would be better). How many stops would you say that this is underexposed by? Thanks!

    scan0004_03.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2018
  8. The way to deal with stainless steel reals is to sacrifice a roll of film and practice in the daylight. I am not sure about the exposure because if everything was working correctly you shouldn't be that far off.
     
    escuta likes this.
  9. I'm also still using a HP Scanjet G4050 with Vuescan. I hated the HP scanjet software and could never get it to give me good results. Once I started using Vuescan I got much better scans.
    Otherwise I'd guess your about 1 or 2 stops off...which is weird as shutters generally never get faster when they malfunction (with exception of some battery dependent cameras).
    Maybe it was a development issue?
     
    andyfalsetta and escuta like this.
  10. m42dave

    m42dave Dave E.

    Three from a BelOMO Elikon 35CM, Fujicolor 200, skylight filter.

    Evening Clouds, Elikon 35CM.jpg

    Evening Sky
     
  11. m42dave

    m42dave Dave E.

  12. m42dave

    m42dave Dave E.

    Silver Creations, Elikon 35CM.jpg

    Silver Creations
     
  13. Hello again. . from the romp thru China Town last Saturday. Fed-2 / Jupiter-8, UFX400, OA & V600 scan. Aloha, Bill 2k18-035-018 ces10 bc.jpg
     
  14. My Bus journey into Honolulu puts me off right here. . . it is only 2 blocks into the China Town District from here. Same data. Bill 2k18-035-010 ces10 bc.jpg
     
  15. Thanks James and Rick. James, I've done lots of practice with both 35mm and 120 film. Can't seem to get it right. I used a Patterson tank years ago when I was 15, I remember it worked then so it should I think be as easy for me now. Rick, due to the exchange rate here, the Vuescan software is almost a third the price of a new V550, plus my G4050, as of recently, is producing a long streak in the scans and is very slow, so i think it's time for an upgrade. All the best!
     
    mjferron likes this.
  16. Perhaps and yes it is weird. I used the same batch of chemicals as with a roll of 35mm HP5+ last week and same development time (the 35mm roll showed perfect exposure). The only thing I changed was that I fixed for about 9 minutes instead of about 7 - I don't think that would do anything, would it? The developer was fresh and the Kodak fixer only used twice before. And the camera/light meter was definitely set at 400 ASA. Development time for this roll and the last was 14min 40sec for both (should be 13min but i increased to compensate for a 5% error in the developer dilution).
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2018
  17. it wasn't 14'40" but 13'40"
     

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