Filling Those #@&% Stainless Reels

<p>I did my first two rolls of 120 TMAX this afternoon. Good news - - I had some success. Bad news, on each roll, I managed to have some film to film contact and spoiled a couple frames on each roll. I used my new PhotoFlex change room. I had a lot of trouble getting this film on the reel. I definitely couldn't feel that the film layers were touching. What's the secret?</p>

<p>For 120 I find that it is quite important to get the film in the central clip straight or the film will wind on weird. I do this by feeding the slightly cupped film into the spool center and then with my other hand I can feel where the clip is. Put the film through the clip and then use the fingers of the hand holding the spool to feel that there is an even amount of film coming through the clip. Then slightly close the clip but not fully close it and then wiggle the film with the hand holding the film to get it straight, again using the fingers of the other hand as a guide.<br>

During the actual spooling of the film, I spool on as normal but to check its on properly I do 2 things. First I give the film a slight push after rolling on a length of film. The gap between the rails will allow the film to move a bit. If its rolled on properly then the film should move freely. Second, as I am rolling the film on, I use the hand holding the reel to feel that the film is being rolled on properly. It should be straight from side to side of the reel and without any kinks or bends.<br>

Doing this I have never had a failure in loading a 120 film.</p>

<p>Chuk--<br>

Good tips. Now, a dumb question---can I touch the film? I was very nervous about letting my fingers touch any of the film. I used a white glove on one hand. I noticed that I crimped the edges in several places also. If I can touch the film, I think it would make it far easier. But, I doubt that's allowed!</p>

<p>I feel lucky I only ruined 2 frames on each roll.</p>

<p>I've always found I have an easier time if I don't attach the end of the film to the center clip. If not attached the film is self-aligning. It also helps to practice in the light with a length of exposed film.</p>

<p>Eventually I threw my metal tanks/reels away and went Patterson.....no more grief....Robert</p>

<p>What does that mean you went "Patterson?"</p>

<p>I mean that I purchased much of the Patterson line of developing tanks and plastic reels. I have developed many hundreds of reels over the years and never had any more loading/handling issues.....Robert</p>

<p>Ahhh...I see. Patterson brand. I'll check that out.</p>

<p>No problem touching the back of the film with dry, not-sweaty fingers without gloves. Just don;t touch the emulsion. I use a stainless steel cup shaped gadget Nikkor used to supply to cup the film for a few inches outside the reel usually, but it's not necessary. Just center it when you attach it, start over if you feel edges sticking out of the sides. And to make it easy, I get the film off the paper before I start loading it onto the reel, and fold the sticky tape over and press it against the other side of the film to give me a stiff edge to start the film. 120 is way easier than 35 mm 36 exp., and stainless steel is easier for 120 (not 35) than the plastic reels that wind it on automatically. Just do it a few times with a blank film in daylight.</p>

<p>I use thin cotton gloves no worry and if you sweat the absorb it.</p>

<p>Patterson. 40 years without error.</p>

<p>Make sure your reels are absolutely straight and parallel! Any twist, any lack of parallelism, and they are utterly useless.<br>

If they are new "generic brand" reels made in China, they may have been built poorly, all twisted. What you really want is a vintage reel that has never been dropped. Vintage Nikor brand is great -- but they aren't marked. New Hewes reels are the only ones made currently of high quality.<br>

It's also a matter of learning the feel, of how to gently aim the film as it winds the film onto the reel. You have to mostly let the film do the work. You also need to know the "feel" of a mis-feed.<br>

Once you get the "feel" of loading stainless steel reels, it's a cinch. Like riding a bike, you'll never lose the skill.</p>

<p>While there's no secret I have found a few things that help take the #@&% out of the loading process. As Al mentioned those center clips drove me crazy so I ended up removing them. Much easier IMO to center the film without them. Ditch the gloves. If you wash your hands well beforehand gloves are not necessary and limit your ability to feel any buckling of film as it rolls onto the reel. If you suspect a problem as you wind the film don't hesitate to run a finger over the base side of the film - you will immediately feel any buckle. Back off past the problem and start again. For anyone having problems I recommend sacrificing a roll and practice in room light as Al suggested. Nothing beats seeing and feeling a buckle and teaching yourself how to avoid and or fix.</p>

<p>The secret is to use the plastic reels!</p>

<p>And there is nothing particularly wrong with touching the emulsion side as long as your fingers are dry and clean, especially if the alternative is to screw up the film loading onto a spool.<br>

Also, I'm not sure that cotton gloves are the best. Cloth gathers dust. The cheap disposable pastic gloves used in food processing is what I prefer to use.</p>

<p>It helps to practice with "dummy" (exposed) film, in daylight, until you get the hang of it. The "touch" comes with experience. No problem with touching the back or edges of the film while loading. I've had more issues with the Patterson system as the slightest amount of residual moisture on the tracks can stop the films progress and cause it to pop out of the channel, especially with the longer 220 film.</p>

 

<p>Here I have used stainless steel reels since the late 1950's; to the whole thing is like riding a bike; or using a can opener; or opening a car door.</p>

<p> With 120 it is tougher than 35mm</p>

<p>Here I LISTEN how the film is going on the reel; and an HEAR when it is getting fouled; and FEEL how it goes on. If you listen to a radio you loose this feedback.</p>

<p>Having loaded thousands of rolls of film; the only areas where 120 can be a pain is an decades old roll with massive curl; or a bent reel.</p>

<p>With 35mm I learned to load two rolls back to back; ie emulsions out. You can load 4 36exp rolls of 35mm on two reels.</p>

<p>I have loaded so much 120/620 and 35mm that I hate clips.</p>

<p>It is OK not to use stainless; not everybody gets the knack.</p>

<p> With a plastic reel; just make darn sure they are bone dry; many will hang up film with a tiny speck of water.</p>

<p>Kodak 40 to 70 years ago made a simple apron that worked; it just had bubbles at the edges to keep the film separated. One just rolled the film on the apron and dropped it in the tank. </p>

<p>In case you want to have a look at them, it's Paterson, single "t". Musn't let this thread deteriorate into another plastic versus metal discussion, both have their merits, but I've used both and prefer the Paterson ones. So perhaps you should at least consider them, imo best by far is the super system 4, which is the latest version.</p>

<p>Usually 5 to 25 percent of the Paterson film stuff On Ebay is listed as Patterson; with two T's.</p>

<p>In the USA there are 16 items under "paterson film" and 2 under "Patterson film"</p>

 

<p>I hated stainless until I purchased Hewes Reels. Now for me there is nothing else. While winding I do a test push and pull on the film to make sure it's riding free in the wire. If it doesn't move there is probably a kink of sorts the needs to be fixed. I haven't had a mishap since going Hewes.</p>

<p>I love these discussions. Some swear by one thing and swear at the other, and vice versa. I started a couple of years ago with a Yankee Clipper cause the price was right. I had non-uniform agitation issues, and I always felt that I just barely got the last few inches of film on the reel. I wouldn't recomend them. I've used Hewes since then with few problems. As others have said, getting it started centered is the secret if there is one. Cutting the end of the film square is very important too. My son's girl friend is interested in darkroom photography and I was wondering what to recommend. I haven't used Paterson, and I was wondering if that is what I should recommend to a newbee, or just dive in with stainless.</p>

<p> IMO, this is the best test for a kink, but this method isn't specific to Hewes. I've used this on no-name reels too.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>While winding I do a test push and pull on the film to make sure it's riding free in the wire. If it doesn't move there is probably a kink of sorts the needs to be fixed.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I forgot about this method ! Think I'll try this with 220 on my next session.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>With 35mm I learned to load two rolls back to back; ie emulsions out. You can load 4 36exp rolls of 35mm on two reels.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The only advice I have for the OP is practice. It took me at least 2 hours a day for 2 solid weeks in college before I was comfortable enough for prime time. Trust me, it <em>will</em> become second nature. If you eventually go with plastic, I would strongly suggest to not give up on SS. It's a handy skill to have in your back pocket because plastic reels can fail too.</p>

<p>I use that gentle push-pull to check to make sure the film didn't jump the track somewhere.</p>

<p><a href="https://www.agxphoto.info/cover/mirrors/ch3/chapter3.html#CH3.13">https://www.agxphoto.info/cover/mirrors/ch3/chapter3.html#CH3.13</a></p>

<p>Nikor made a thicker wire version too; thus Hewes is a great copycat of a 70 year old brand. Hewes is pushed on Photo.net like there is so sort of kickback.! :)</p>

<p>Both a crushed/bent Spiratone; Nikor; or Hewes reel will make a poorer loading session.</p>

<p>It is weird how newcomers push Hewes versus all other stainless; when there have been many dozen brands of stainless reels made.</p>

<p>Any reel no matter what the brand can be bent and destroyed in a school darkroom; the thicker wire Nikor reels were brought out as a version 40 years ago; to make stainless reels more gorilla/student proof.</p>

<p>The sad thing is many of us who bought brand new Nikors and never lent them can load them behind our backs; since they are not screwed up my others.</p>

<p>In the 1960's One could buy stainless reels from about 2 dozen brand names; even Sears; J C Penney too.</p>

<p>How well a reel loads is more aligned to its condition; than brand name. A 2 dollar Spiratone reel from 1965 can be easy to load; and crushed/bent Hewes a PITA.</p>

<p>Nikor reels go back about 75 to 80 years; thus a used one has more risk than a brand new never used Hewes reel</p>

<p> In Nikor; there were hundreds of different items made; some that Hewes never will make. Nikkor made reels for 116/616; 4x5 films; even larger roll films; for 100 feet of 16mm and 35mm films too.<br>

Nikor gets beat up by newcomers; it comes across like saying Leica; Milwaukee saw, and Nikon are total garbage; ie bizzare.</p>