fat pixels

Discussion in 'Photo.net Site Help' started by coho, Sep 24, 2006.

  1. I realize this has been covered before but not for a while: When I convert my
    images from tif to jpeg for display on PN, the colours just lose life. I look
    at my lively tif images, then look at the somewhat drab jpeg conversions and I
    must agree perhaps I deserve those 3/3s I'm getting. Is there a better way to
    make the fat pixel sing as a jpeg and bring life to my images on PN?
     
  2. Convert your images to sRGB before posting them (and search the archives).
     
  3. thanks
     
  4. David,<br>
    <br>
    If you are using Adobe ImageReady to convert you TIF/TIFF(s) to
    JPG(s) I recommend trying a compression value of 75 and if the
    image is to large in megapixels then try 43. I find that values
    between but not including 75 and 43 produces poorer quality
    images. I have ideas as to why this happens but I can&#146;t
    explain it correctly or completely so I won&#146;t try.<br>
    <br>
    For best color on various displays: copy your image to a new file
    and use &#147;Convert to profile...&#148; to convert it to sRGB.
    Depending on your monitor calibration and what Photoshop&#146;s (or
    another program&#146;s) images are emulating you may need to
    adjust the Hue and Saturation in Adobe ImageReady. If you are
    using a program other than ImageReady experiment with various
    compression values.<br>
    <br>
    You many not get the best gamma and mid tone saturation directly
    from your camera or on conversion. These can be adjusted using
    the Levels and Curves pallets. To increase mid tone contrast and
    saturation you can pin or drag the 1/4 tone down slightly then
    drag up the 3/4 tone. This increases the mid-tone contrast at the
    expense of the high light and depending, to the shadow contrast.
    This is a feature of conventional wet darkroom process. Indeed a
    painter must do the same on canvas. It's not possible to depict
    the actual values of most subjects, particularly a hard sunlight
    one on a two dimensional surface. In theory a sheet of
    photographic paper can reflect no more than 100% of the light
    that falls on it nor less than 0%. In practice it's more like 107%
    due to optical brighteners and perhaps as low as 5% in the
    shadows. These are not test values but general values.<br>
    <br>
    Do NOT use Brightness and Contrast as these are &#147;lousy,&#148;
    that is they cause loss of data. If you need to clip the image
    some use Levels where you can control what you are doing both
    visually and with the aid of the Histogram. Note that Auto Levels
    and Auto Curves does some clipping.<br>
    <br>
    I suggest archiving almost all images (as shot) as unmodified NEF(s).
    Edit the best, that is separate them from the mediocre. Later an
    image that does not seem worth saving may have more value to you.
    I speak from sad experience. Saving the also ran(s) is not as
    space consuming as saving apparently unneeded slides and
    negatives.<br>
    <br>
    Best,<br>
    <br>
    Dave Hartman.
     

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