F90x is underexposing

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by daniel_venosa, Oct 12, 2003.

  1. I recently bought an used f90x , i have shot 2 rolls of tri x( that i developed) and
    almost all the pics were underexposed....
    any sugestion?
  2. to eliminate that the error was yours in processign, shoot a roll of slide film instead, and have it processed commercially. make sure the iso is set correctly when you load it. also, try to compare your meter readings to other/another n90s
  3. I agree with Desmond, slide film will remove a big variable since you get one finished image as it was really shot, with no in-between steps. If it is correct, you will know when you lay it on the light table. The Tri-X can be effected by several things like temperature or developer strength.

    Additionally, you might look at the following:

    --Are you using DX or manual settings for the ISO? Since the camera was used, it might be set to a setting other than you might assume.

    --Is the exposure compensation set to "zero"? Again, the camera might have been set to some negative (under-exposure) compensation by the last user.

    --What metering pattern is set? If the pattern is for example set to spot, then it might be skewed for an overall scene if you are not taking this into consideration and the spot is hitting a bright area of the overall scene. If you are shooting in matrix mode, assuming that is a "no-brainer" mode, it often can be fooled, especially on these earlier cameras.

    My own experience with these cameras is that I get very good exposure, even without matrix metering if I know what is being "read" by the meter and adjust accordingly. There are lots of buttons and hidden settings to be checked, but once everything is correct, you should enjoy good results.
  4. n m

    n m

    Daniel, when you post a question like this it helps to include whatever you can to describe the problem accurately and exclude certain causes so that people do not waste their time with redundant suggestions. So please do not be insulted if you think the checklists suggested patronise you.
  5. As David Vestal said shoot Tri-X at EI 200 is "about as dangerous as taking extra sandwiches to a picnic."

    Also I as I recall from David Vestal B&W films are (or were) tested to ISO specifications using ANSI Standard Developer. This was described as a developer that produces high contrast, coarse grain and high film speed. It’s not a real world developer and it gives unrealistic film speed.

    The standard way of dealing with thin negative is reduce your film speed. When Kodak film came with an instruction insert this information was found in that leaflet.

    To check the camera use slide film. To correct the problem with Tri-X adjust the film speed. I recommend developing Tri-X in D-76 diluted 1:2. I do this to split the difference between 1:1’s soft mushy grain and 1:3's fine but harsh grain. I use 9.5 minutes at 70°F (21°C) but this depends on ones agitation method (5/30) and the contrast of your enlarger and paper. I use a two minute, temperature controlled, pre-wash. Tri-X has changed and I’m still using the old stuff from the ice box. YMMV!

    My experience with Nikon cameras since the introduction of SBC (Silicone Blue Cell) metering in the Nikon F2As and Nikkormat FT3 is that they are very consistent. Older cameras might have slightly slow shutters but that would result in increased exposure.

    I don’t trust DX coding. The problem is sugars, oils and especially wax (think lip balm) can cause it to misread. I never use the standard film speed for negative films. With color I use a speed that is 2/3 to 1 stop slower than the published speed and with B&W film I use tests to determine film speed.

    My best guess is your camera is fine.
  6. I use spot metering and matrix metering( if im in hurry) , i never use dx , and i
    develop with full strenght d-76.......i just bought a roll of velvia 50, lets see the


  7. Daniel, do you have the manual? The F90x has a custom setting of the program mode for shooting silhouettes that will cause underexposed pics, by 2 stops as I recall. To clear any custom settings do a 2 button reset. This will clear any custom program modes and also clear any exposure bias setting. That is push, and hold, at the same time, the 2 buttons marked with a green dot for at least 5 seconds. This will clear any custom settings. Next push the ISO button and make sure that the ISO is set to either the DX mode or the correct setting for the film speed. The next thing to do is to clean the DX contacts by wiping them with a lens cleaning tissue. If after taking these measures, the camera is still underexposing, you may want to look at having it serviced.

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