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F100 Metering Symbol in View Finder


frank_yang

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I got a F100 that replace my N90s and I noitce when I put a my nikon 28-105mm

Af f3.5-4.5 lens, and when I change the metering switch (on the prism) from

metric metering to center or spot metering position, the LCD in the view

finder still shows the metric metering symbol. I try it with my 17-35mm f2.8

and 80-200mm f2.8 and it show the same thing so I know it's not the lens.

 

When I put manual AIS lens on the body and change the metering switch to spot

position the LCD in the finder only show the center weighted symbol.

 

I remember on my N90s the sybmol on the LCD in the view finder changes when

you change the metering mode between metric, center and spot.

 

My question is this a normal on a F100 or someting is wrong with my F100 and I

should bring it to a shop to have it repair? Thanks

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I've had the same problem with the meter selection switch on an F100 body - sometimes it would work, sometimes not, and I would have to "jiggle" the switch to make it work. It may have been a bad contact or whatever but it was a new camera and I took it back for an exchange. Other people have reported the same problem over on the Nikonians website so I would say it's your body.

 

Center-weighted and spot are the only metering modes available for AIS lenses on the F100 so if it's stuck on matrix, it would switch to CW. The fact you can't change to spot again suggests that the switch is not working.

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Frank, that is not normal. The moment you switch the metering mode button on the prism you ought to see the corresponding symbol in the view finder. There was a known problem with that button amongst some F100's, perhaps early serial #'s. What is the serial number of yours? Exactly what the problem was I cannot recall. I want to say it would malfunction electronically, as your are experiencing, and often mechanically by falling off.

 

While you're inspecting your F100 also have a look at the film-rewind fork, in particular at the two prongs. Are the prongs the same length or is one longer than the other? If the same length, good. If different lengths, not so good as they had a tendency to break. It would be advisable to have the fork replaced in your leisure rather than, at an inopportune time, wishing it was replaced.

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Just checked my F100 and it doesn't have this problem, but a few days ago, I discovered that my 4-year-old D100 has recently developed the exact same problem. If I play around with that little metering mode switch on the D100, the problem goes away. I am quite sure that it is the result of bad contacts. Maybe there is a bit of oxidization developed inside.
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Hi Frank...how are you? Trouble with the F100 huh? I just checked on my D100 and its metering symbol in LCD inside the viewfinder changes as i change the metering metric, center-weighted, or spot. As you know the D100 specs is equal to F80 and your F100 should have that feature. I am saying that there is big possibility that your F100 is in trouble....:). Better consult your handbook manual to double check.

 

By the way..NIkon service at Torrance, CA is helpful. Once i got my D100 shipped and they got it fixed. No problem.

 

Still shooting some films? I thought you have considered D200. :)

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Hi all, thanks for the response. The serial number on my F100 is US22755** I'm not sure if this is an early or late production F100 but I bought it as a factory demo from Cameta cameraa and still under warranty I just wish I can bring it to Torrance facility to get it service instead of mailing it back to Cameta. I'd play with the switch many time and nothing changes so there is nothing I can do short of sparying contact cleaner around the switch but not sure if that is a good idea? The rewind fork is the same length on both segments but I notice its made of plastic instead of metal as is on the N90s. At least I know for sure now there is something wrong with the switch and need to be address. What other common problems with the F100 that I should keep an eye out for?

 

Edward, your alive ;) I'm still stuck in film heaven and waiting for the FM Digital...just kidding, i just got too many manual lens to give up until the D200 (meter w/AI Lens) come along so its on my to get list, but I do have an Nikon Coolpix 8400 that cover my digital needs and that 24mm lens come to the rescue more ofen then you realize on our architectural line of work.

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<em>I'd play with the switch many time and nothing

changes so there is nothing I can do short of sparying contact

cleaner around the switch but not sure if that is a good idea?

--Frank Yang<br>

</em><br>

I would not spray contact cleaner around the switch. If the

camera is still properly sealed you will be wasting your time. If

not you will introduce alcohol which as an affinity for water

inside the camera. Chances are low that the contact cleaner with

find its mark even if it gets in side. Send the camera to Nikon

or a Nikon Authorized repair station. Check, everyone who claims

to be a Nikon authorized repair station many not be one. <br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

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Had the same problem with a 221xxx series and spent a few minutes exercising the switch back and forth. After 50 or excursions it was operating normally but it needs a reminder session fairly regularly to keep it operating properly. I would guess it is a poorly designed switch or it is getting some exposure to the elements and oxidizing the contacts. A common problem from my readings.

 

R.

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<em>I would guess it is a poorly designed switch or it

is getting some exposure to the elements and oxidizing the

contacts. A common problem from my readings. -- Ron Ries<br>

</em><br>

Might this be more common with cameras that have been used in the

rain? I know many modern AF SLR(s) and DSLR(s) have significant

environmental sealing but I dont trust these to rain.<br>

<br>

It seems that I read about a photographer who was shooting with a

Nikon F100 and got drenched by heavy salt spray. He was at the

bow of a boat photographing whales. The camera died on the spot.

I read this on a professional photographers forum.<br>

<br>

I have not seen this problem with my F100 but I used my F5 and FE2

more often than the F100.<br>

<br>

The switch may use a gold plated brass contact. If the gold is

missing through wear the brass will corrode fairly quickly.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.<br>

<br>

PS: I though of recommending exercising the switch. Ive had

both cameras and pocket calculators that use S-76 batteries fail

to function with good batteries. Taken out the batteries and

burnished them on my blue jeans, put the batteries back in and

had no problems for a significant time, maybe a few months, maybe

a year. The pocket calculator gets hand-me-down batteries from my

FE2(s) so the calculator is more prone to the problem.

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