f1.4 or f1.8 as a first fast lens?

<p>Hi all, I'm new here and new to digital photography. I've got a Nikon D3000 and am learning how to use it. I'm interested in taking portraits and landscapes initially, and a photographer I spoke to recently suggested getting a 50mm f1.4 or f1.8 lens, I've been looking these up and I know that the f1.4 lens will operate at lower light levels, but have read several conflicting descriptions of the usefulness of this lens, some saying it is preferable over the f1.8 and some saying that it causes more distortion and there's no point paying the extra £100 for the f1.4.<br>

I'm wondering if any of you have experience of the difference and benefits to each lens to help me make my decision?<br>

Thanks!</p>

 

<p>Mega,<br>

I think only the 50mm 1.4 AF-S will autofocus on you D3000... afaik there is no 50/1.8 that will af on your camera body. Keep in mind there is the 50mm 1.4 AF-D that will also not autofocus on your body.</p>

<p>HTHs!</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Alvin</p>

<p>A f1.4 lens will "operate at lower light levels" because is two thirds of a stop faster; translated to the real life this advantage is not so big... if you`re shooting f1.4 at 1/60sec., with a f1.8 lens this speed will be 1/40sec.<br /> <br /> Some "purists" could also prefer f1.4 versions because its (slightly) better bokeh and (slightly) shallower depth of field wide open. Construction quality is noticeably better, I think.<br /> <br /> Distortion? I`d say on f1.4 versions this use to be higher, but nothing to be worried about (for "normal" use).</p>

<p>Thanks for your replies. Alvin, will it make a big difference having autofocus? It's so much more expensive, almost as expensive as my camera!!!</p>

<p>The brand new f/1.4 is great, apparently, but I don't have it and can't talk about it.</p>

<p>For older lenses, don't waste your money. Both the older 1.4 and 1.8 50mms have distortion wide-open but the 1.8 is cheaper and much better. That much I can say from experience.</p>

<p>The 50mm focal length on a DX sensor is indeed a good focal length for portraits. The softness of the old 1.4 wide-open is quite nice, though.</p>

<p>AF vs. MF really depends on how/what you shoot. If your subject is not moving, MF isn't hard at all. If the subject is moving, your "keeper rate" won't be as high as with an AF lens, depending on your skill and light levels. As you use MF lenses more, you'll get better at manual focussing. </p>

<p>"will it make a big difference having autofocus? " Absolutely. Is it worth paying the extra difference in cost over the f1.8 [for the AF]. Absolutely.</p>

<p>Unless you are shooting in low light often, you may not actually want/need this lens.</p>

<p>Megan,<br>

I like to shoot with 50mm lens but on a DX camera like yours you can do very well with a Nikon AF-S 35mm /f1.8 DX that is cheaper, a high performer, and could be used for some landscapes, for general photography and for portraiture. In my opinion is much wiser to start with it because it's really a bargain for what offers. </p>

<p>This lens will have autofocus on your camera and is a new design done especially for crop sensor cameras. I have not the numbers at hand but I think that costs only half than the 50/1.4 and is a far better option than the 50/1.8 that does not autofocus on your camera. </p>

<p>Megan,</p>

<p>AF is definately a plus over MF, if that is what you prefer. Remember that not so long ago only MF lenses existed and that stopped nobody from taking pictures. I don't know the D3000, but in order for you to focus manually you will need a bright viewfinder, because that will allow you to focus properly. I have a F100 and D700 and they both have a focus aid in the viewfinder that I find very helpfull in focussing. However in dim light situations, the AF sensor will not be able to assist you.</p>

<p>Since you're new to photography, and I really hope that you will enjoy photography as most of the boys and girls around here, I'd suggest you go for the AF lens. Ok, it will cost you a bit more, but it will provide you with a lot more sharp pictures. If you get the hang of it, you may considers buying a used MF Nikkor. They are (sometimes) not too expensive and there are some true gems available out there.</p>

<p>Why don't you think it over over a nice cup of tea, use your kit lens a bit longer and save for a nice second AF-S lens, for if you want AF it is AF-S you will be looking for, all other AF lenses (hence non AF-S) will be MF lenses on your camera body.</p>

<p>Good luck!</p>

"...taking portraits and landscapes initially..."

<p>Hi Megan, I'm a Canon shooter myself, just wandered over to see what happens on 'the other side' :) In answer to your question, your lens is unlikely to be able to perform both functions well (i.e. landscapes and portraits). It will likely be very good at one and not too great at the other.

<p>When shooting portraits, you often want a 'shallow depth of field' that leads to that nice out-of-focus background and an in-focus subject in the foreground. In this case a 50 f/1.8 should more than suffice, as you probably also don't want to shoot at a wider aperture than perhaps f/2.8 otherwise too little is in focus. With practice you'll be able to pull off a f/1.8 portrait, but they're not to everyone's taste and are quite tricky to do.

<p>50mm on a crop-sensor is something like a 75mm or 80mm focal length (not sure what the D3000 crop factor is). Which in simple terms, is likely to be too narrow to get a decent landscape sot. More often than not, landscapes are shot using a wide angle lens, which allows you to capture a panorama view. Also, you often want the opposite effect to portraits, in that you want lots of the scene from foreground to background to be in focus (sharp). So you'll end up shooting at perhaps f/8-f/11, at which point most lenses achieve their maximum sharpness. So you likely don't need an f/1.8 or 1.4 lens.

<p>I hope I'm not confusing you now! :) It would be worth your while reading up on the fundamentals of photography to grasp better the terms I've used. In fact, I would stick to the lens that came with your camera and try out these principles on it, before you invest in another lens.

<p>Best regards,

<br>Mark

<p>@ Mark<em><br /> </em><br>

<em>"More often than not, landscapes are shot using a wide angle lens"</em> Depends on the landscape you are shooting, your shooting position in relation to the landscape and the shot you are trying to achieve.</p>

<p><em>"want the opposite effect to portraits, in that you want lots of the scene from foreground to background to be in focus (sharp)"</em> This is subjective and depends on the photographer. Many people use the 50mm and 85mm specifically to blur the background and get nice bokeh. These lenses have the advantage of giving the photographer the ability control DOF and shoot however he/she chooses.</p>

<p>The general rule about photography is that there are no rules. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Above, Jose mentioned the minor difference between the background blur rendering (bokeh) of a 50/1.8 and a 50/1.4. <em>Which</em> 50/1.4 also makes a difference.<br /><br />Here are two side-by side shots taken with a Nikon 50/1.8 (on the left) and the Sigma 50/1.4 HSM (on the right). Each was used at f/1.8, in much the way you might use if wanted really shallow DoF to deal with a busy background behind a portrait subject. This particular example is meant to show how higher-contrast background elements can (with some lenses) exhibit some significant and possibly distracting artifacts. Here's that test:<br /><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00V/00VA1c-197267584.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="608" /><br /><br />If you're even <em>thinking</em> about the AF-S 50 G from Nikon (which handles the above a little better than the 1.8, but not much), at least consider the extra $45 or so for the 50/1.4 HSM, which I think makes a much nicer portrait lens if that's an important use for you.<br /><br />Needless to say, I don't think you want to be stuck in manual focus mode, anyway. The 50/1.8 is a great little lens for the money, but you'll go nuts trying to get it in focus on the fly.</p>

<p>Wow, Matt.<br>

My fast 50 at the moment is an AI 50 f/1.8 (the one with the long barrel that focusses pretty close), and I'm looking for an f/1.4 lens. I'd looked at the Sigma but was leaning more toward the 58mm Cosina-Voigtlander, just because the Sigma is so huge. But if the background blur from the Sigma reliably looks like you've shown, I may just have to put up with the size. Thanks for the tip.</p>

 

<p>That quality, John, is why I bought the Sigma. I already use their 30/1.4, but was completely happy to give Nikon's 50/1.4 G a chance ... no dice. The Sigma's just a lot more beautiful, in the ways I intend to use it. Deadly sharp, too. Here, at f/1.8:<br /><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00V/00V2RU-191893584.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br />And because I already have it posted here and easy to link to, here's another at f/2:<br /><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00V/00V6F5-194429684.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br />It's all a matter of taste, but I'm quite satisfied with it. For me, the size/mass of that lens actually feels very nice. Stable. I'm doubting you'd regret the Cosina-Voigtlander, John - isn't it great to have all of these choices?</p>

<p>Megan, does your D3000 come with a 18-55mm lens? You must be using some lens with the camera for the time being, right? Do you find the 50mm focal length useful?</p>

<p>It is more important to add a lens that meets you needs rather than mererly based on someone's recommendation, although a 50mm should make a decent portrait lens on the D3000. Keep in mind that the 50mm/f1.8 is not an AF-S lens and you'll lose AF on the D3000.</p>

<p>I have the D3000 and the 50mm AF-S f1.4 and I really love that combo. It is very useful for low light and I use it for all sorts of family gatherings and holidays almost exclusively. I would highly recommend it. (even though the lens is more expensive than the D3000)<br>

The 50mm lens will last a long time and you will be able to continue using it even when you upgrade to a newer better body. The AF on that lens is fast and accurate. Keep in mind though opened wide up to 1.4 I have had shots ruined because the tip of someones nose is in focus and their eyes are fuzzy. I use the lens for all purpose shooting of groups or close up portraits too.</p>

<p>Note I do not have the other 50mm lens so I cannot comment on its quality. Merely commenting on the D3000 combo with the AF-S 50mm.</p>

<p>megan, the 35/1.8 will AF on a d3000 and may be a better overall focal length on DX, though 50mm is a good length for portraits.</p>

 

<p>I did buy & luv my little 50mm.1.8 E series lens by nikon,great price 40$,manual focus,thats ok nice smooth focusing,I'm using it on my D40,saved the day at my daughters wedding....I personally would never spend the big bucks for the 1.4 AFS..!</p>

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<p>I did buy & luv my little 50mm.1.8 E series lens by nikon,great price 40$,manual focus,thats ok nice smooth focusing,I'm using it on my D40</p>

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<p>As long as you don't mind no metering and no auto focus on the D3000, D5000, D40, D40X, and D60 ....</p>

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<p>I'd looked at the Sigma but was leaning more toward the 58mm Cosina-Voigtlander, just because the Sigma is so huge.</p>

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<p>Its outstanding bokeh is partly dependent on its size (e.g., the dia. of the lens) "because background blur and depth of field are fundamentally dependent upon the size of the entrance pupil (the apparent size of the aperture as seen through the front element)." -- dpreview</p>

<p>Hi Megan,<br>

In my opinion, that is a definite yes for auto focus. I have a manual focus 55/2.8 AIS that I use occasionally for portraits but it is very difficult to get spot on focus with moving targets. Even with static portraiture subjects, at F4-5.6 I've had misses.<br>

I'd also echo the others in the thread, do use your zoom, if you have one, to see which focal lengths work better for you - 30, 35 or 50mm, then make your choice.</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Alvin</p>

<p>IMO, having no metering would be more of a nuisance than having to focus manually.<br>

(I'm not familiar with the D3000 but if it will not meter with a lens without internal focusing motor then I'd go for a lens that it can meter with. That is, after considering which focal length will be the most useful for your subject matter.)</p>

<p>The difference between the two is not all that great, just a hair more than half a stop. And I can count the number of times on one hand in the last 35 years that I have ever shot a "normal" lens wide open . Plus there is a pretty big difference in $$$. Personally, I would go with an f/1.8.</p>

<p>The AF 50mm.1.8 will meter with your camera because it has cpu coupling ability,however I have found this AF lens a little sloppy when focusing manualy, therefore the 50mm.E for me!!It does also teaches me about light & metering on the fly!!</p>

<p>Wow, thanks for all your replies! A lot to think about. I think perhaps I need to get a bit more familiar with my camera and it's current lens before I think about getting another lens. Especially as once I seem to have made up my mind, someone else comes along and points out and even better one for even more money! Photography isn't the cheapest pass time, is it?</p>