Exposure vs Shutter Speed

Discussion in 'Beginner Questions' started by miss.annette_leigh_haynes, Jan 13, 2018.

  1. I bought a D70s about a year and a half ago for $30. I have since given it away to my brother. I used the 28mm f/2.8 AI lens on it. It's quite easy to use just set the aperture, shutter speed, focus then shoot.
     
  2. I made the transition to digital with out any pain or relearning. But I add that I did not try to use the legacy batch of FD lenses from the 1980s. I started more recently to use a few of them with my mirrorless cameras, only a few though since I am a zoom lens fanboy and FD zooms were so so and big. FD EOM are optically good some great, but not all outstanding unless fluorite and special glass back then..still valued as used for courste . Modern optical design is pretty darn good for the money. Someone mentioned kit lens. Sure try one and be surprised... I have bought used lenses and cameras and, like used cars that is a way to save big time.
    ----0------
    I look back at film as I do on cars with carburetors especially those dual carb buggers. OK, hot stuff, but a pain in the ass if you worked on them. Technology has taken stuff off our back so we can concentrate on those aesthetics and leave the fiddling part.( So it said anyway) I learned exposure relations when my cameras ( Universal II/ Century Graphic. Stereo Realist) had no meters at all nor lens connectivity and I used a Weston Master III selenium meter. It showed the choices of f stop and aperture and the relationship as well as the ASA now ISO and did the job and fie on your sunny 16 I mean that took thinkin.' . My individual experience such as it was, being this: Nalmely If one's time has some value, ( whose does not?) and you have a few bucks, -not even a lot of money - it is well and prudent to get a camera from say 2006 onward, later better... I could be wrong on the timeline so..Handheld meters were mentioned. Underrated.Yes they are. Funny how much one can learn from a used Gossen Luna Pro meter. And, heck, it still is a great check on things even with in camera metering. Film costs were the least of the problem. It took time. Post processing, I do not diddle. Out of camera JPEG does the job for me. ( We are easy on that score.) Digital is so darn easy actually if you look at the result IMO. But hey. Big world no worries.)
    ( Not once have I seen a camera manual that anyone says is fair much less great. This is a boon to tech writers who moonlight and who do follow on books.)
    PS to the lady: If the OP would like I can send her no charge a working Vivitar 285 HV, low trigger voltage. I have two of them.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
  3. I guess what does it say about me that I can balance and tune twin SUs in my sleep and then also shot and developed some FP4+ in my 500C(from 1960, and this time with the old fashioned "look through the window to start back).

    Just a couple of days ago, I got a call from someone locally who had never owned a British car before and had just bought a '72 Midget. I went over and went through a full tune-up with him-setting the valve lash, changing and gapping the points, setting the timing, and then finally a full tune on his carbs. It took a bit longer than usual on the carbs since I also changed the needles valves, set the float height, clean out the dashpots and change the oil, and fully disconnected the linkages to set the idle and do the initial balance. It normally takes me ~10 minutes on my own car to set and balance the idle, set the mixture, then reset and rebalance the idle.

    BTW, I usually only need a 1/2" wrench to remove the air cleaners and sometimes a small flathead or nut driver to turn the idle screws(although I often turn them by hand). I use a long rubber hose to balance them, do the "piston lift" using the conveniently provided pins for that purpose. On my preferred style of carb(the HS type) I can adjust the mixture by hand, although occasionally use the special little SU-branded wrench made just for that purpose.
     
  4. Good on you Ben. I had one British sports touring car and that was quite enough. You are my kind of buddy if I owned an MG. Or Triumph. How about VW. We all go through the sports car phase. And then get mature. Married and wife has her hair mussed. Or have kids. Or dogs. Or the tonneau won't stay put. British and sheet metal. Sorry dear friiends over there. This car was designed by some engineer in Coventry who had one too many Guiness pints methinks.. Gerry and Alpine 1962.jpg But then I do not iknow how Rootes assebmly line worked either..a Monday car? :) I drove this gem up the Simplon Pass and on to Geneva. But back home here outside its native land, ho ho, it kept burning wheel bearings. Distressing thing that and can ruin a whole day and scare a date too. Now fast forward. My Toyota is so boringly reliable. Used to like excitement. Tech: Century Graphic, 120 roll film, Tri X souped in Dektol. And printed on...I forget.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
  5. Nice looking car Gerry.

    I'm happy to help any friends or strangers with an MG. I won't soil my tools by having them touch a Triumph :) . I'd be lost on Beetle.

    I'm not quite 30, but I've been bitten by the British car "bug" and as long as life's circumstances allow I'd like to continue owning one. Trust me, it's nice to hop into my Lincoln-especially on a cold day, turn the key, and know that it's just going to start every time. Not only that, but it will be warm in the winter, cool in the summer, have lights that will let me see the road at night, and windshield wipers that reliably let me see :) .

    A while back, I saw a comment on the internet that I thought had a lot of truth. It went along the lines of answering what it was like to own a British sports car to someone who hadn't ever. The advice was to go out on a dark, cold, and rainy night, roll down the windows, turn off the windshield wipers, turn off the headlights, and turn off the heater. Then, every time you come to an intersection, stop and throw a $20 bill out the window. It's not quite the same thing, but it's close enough :) .
     
  6. Brief anecdote, just one. I bought the Alpine because it looked sharp and I was overseas and saw a sports car in my future. White with red interior. My fiancee loved the look and the rasp of the exhaust. that kind of stuff. So dissolve to the day of my marriage. Heading down the highway 40 miles to the chapel. White steam from the hood and the temperature goes into the red sector. Pull over ( on a Saturday morning) and the attendant says " you got a cracked radiator manifold. " Well ok let us go to a radiator fixer. "Oh, one of those things," says radiator guy..cluck cluck.. Do all the cars like that have hoods that come off hinged from the front- duh, beats me dude.. Finger biting but successfully done... Off to ceremony. Sweating and stressed, but we are young, under 30, Ben.Shoot everybody has a story about the big day. ...I got a few more but not today. Ending later on after a few mishaps on honeymoon natch...Yep, I sold it off to some guy who liked fiddling, enjoyed the roar of the exhaust. I hope he had no reason to cuss yours truly..I hid nothing. ( Company redesigned things after I did their quality control on Mark I model. They eventually popped a V 8 Ford engine in the car and sold it as Tiger. Now if someone gave me a deal on a Miata, I could be sold again, well maybe. I think I could just rent one and be satisfied you know.) postscript. Why do I remember little stuff like Zenith Downdraught Carburetors when I cannot recall where I last set my reading glasses? No do not answer.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
  7. Ok Ben Hutcherson:
    Naked Eye Vs Auto Focus so which is really better I have a Nikon D70 DSLR I have never used an AF Lens before I ordered one
    Nikon 35-80mm 1:4-5.6D AF Nikkor Lens I do not have it in my possession till Jan. 22 Monday 2018 I do not have $500.00 to $1000.00 to spend for a Lens right now so what are your remarks about this Lens?
     
  8. That lens will serve you fine on your D70. It gets a bit iffy at higher resolutions, but you should be fine.

    Also, be aware that you lose autofocus on a lot of newer low end bodies. The D70 will be fine with it, but the D40, D50, D3000 series, and D5000 series are not capable of operating the autofocus on that lens(it requires an in-body focus motor, something that Nikon has steadily been eliminating from lower end cameras).
     
  9. I'd really recommend a 18-55 or the AF-S 18-70 f/3.5-4.5 (which used to come as kitlens with the D70) rather than a 35-70 for a D70. These lenses cost nowhere near $500, closer to $100 in fact, and optically and functionally they're miles better than the 35-80 zoom.
    Another very affordable good lens is the Nikon AF-S 18-105mm VR lens - it can often bve found 2nd hand at very good prices, and it's a very credible performer.
     
  10. Very much agreed on these suggestions.

    The 18-55 in particular is such a great lens for such a great that any DX shooter should have one. The only thing to watch is to make sure you're not getting the newest AF-P version, as it can not be focused(automatically or manually) on a D70.

    Plus, as you said, a 35mm-xx lens is pretty cramped for DX.
     
  11. Where do I find Info on the Web what lens not to buy for my Nikon D70 DSLR?
     
  12. Search for "Nikon Lens Compatibility Chart". Thom Hogan and Ken Rockwell both have decent ones.

    Here's your short answer:

    1. Non-AI lenses can not be safely mounted
    2. Manual focus AI and AI-S lenses will mount and work, but do not offer metering.
    3. AI-P lenses(manual focus with a CPU) offer full metering and automatic exposure. Be sure the aperture ring is set to its smallest setting or the camera will blink FEE and not work.
    4. All AF, AF-D, AF-I, and AF-S lenses are fully compatible including metering, exposure, and autofocus. If the lens has an aperture ring (type G lenses do not) you must set the ring to the smallest aperture. Most lenses have a lock you can engage for this.
    5. Type E lenses(not series E, the manual focus 1980s lenses) are not compatible. The D70 is not capable of controlling the aperture in these lenses, so they can only work at full aperture. Do not use.
    6. AF-P lenses can not focus on a D70. Neither autofocus nor manual focus works on the D70. Do not use.
     
  13. Sorry to to be unlearned this is my first Digital Camera the only thing I can say about it is there a Manual Focus Macro Bellows that will fit this Nikon D70 DSLR Camera.
    Or any AF Macro Bellow that will fit this Nikon D70 Camera Marco can`t be beat I have a Vintage Nikon Nippon F Marco Bellows but I need a 1 1/2" Extension
    to make it work do they make anything like that?
     
  14. Ben:
    A AF Lens is better than no AF Lens at all true fact!! I am looking to buy a better AF Lens the 18-55mm has no 28mm setting no 50mm setting so I will look at other lens like a Nikkor AF, f/3.5 28-70mm maybe I can Buy it in Feb.
     
  15. I'm not following your comment about not having a 28mm or 50mm setting. Zooms are more or less infinitely variable. Even if the setting isn't marked on the ring, you can still set the ring to any position between. Most lenses will even register small changes in the zoom setting.

    Screen Shot 2018-01-20 at 12.27.18 AM.png

    Note that the above shows "38mm"-this was a 24-85mm lens, and it registers even single digit changes in the zoom setting.

    Also, it's worth mentioning that the 18-55 is really like ~27mm-82.5mm lens on a 35mm camera.
     
    SSepan likes this.
  16. Ok I did not know that Thanks!!
    what do I use instead of Marco Bellows they will not fit my D70 Camera unless I have a 1 1/2" adapter?
     
  17. I am not sure what the OP is talking about but I have used the D70s (which isn't much different from the D70) with the Nikon PB-6 bellow and use no adapter. Pre AI lenses are not recommended but I have use them on the D70s without problem. In fact with the D70s Pre AI or AI lens works the same.
    The fact that the OP used to use a plain prism Nikon F and a 4x5 then no AF and no meter shouldn't be a problem.
     
  18. The bellows should mount without a problem. AFAIK, they DON'T have a coupling ridge at all, and don't present a problem.
     
  19. Genuine Nikon bellows have a revolving mount. To use them on a DX camera, you have to mount them 'sideways' and then rotate them into their normal position using the rotating mount. Otherwise the prism overhang gets in the way.

    OK, it's not straightforward, but easily doable. No need for any extender tube.

    There's no such thing as an AF bellows, BTW. However, you can get AF coupled extension tubes for both 'screwdriver' and G type lenses.

    FWIW, I used a set of Pentax bellows for years on my Nikon cameras. The rear thread of the Pentax bellows detached, allowing a Nikon T-mount to be fitted. At the front end I used an M42 fit macro lens, or various 39mm enlarger lenses via a thread adapter.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2018
  20. My AF Lens arrived today Jan 20/18

    35-80mm 1:4-5.6D what good are F-Stops if I can only use f/22 use any other f-Stop, FEE appears and shutter is locked

    Is there any way to bypass this mode?
     

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