EVF Cameras for Studio Work?

<p>Hi all. First off, let me apologize if this is the wrong forum. I wasn't sure where to put this, so I just guessed.</p>

<p>I'm looking into buying a mirrorless camera. I recently picked up an absolutely spotless Pentax 50mm f/1.2 for a whopping fifty bucks, and that sort of set the gears in motion. I shoot a lot of portraits and the occasional still life, typically using strobes. I very rarely shoot professionally, and my 'final results' are usually from a Hasselblad shooting black and white film, so I'm pretty sure a full-frame camera is unnecessary. I use a Nikon D70 as sort of a 'Polaroid back', working out the shot until I capture it on film. I also have a Canon G10 as a walking around camera, though I find that the dynamic range, especially in the shadows, is too short to use that for studio stuff in place of the D70. It's great as a "light meter", but never have I decided to actually use any of the flash images from the G10.</p>

<p>So I think a mirrorless camera might make a good replacement for both my D70 and my G10. Not as compact as the G10 or as fast as the D70, but it's got more tonal range than the G10, and more pixels than the D70.</p>

<p>The Samsung NX10 seemed like the best candidate, as it's set up the most like a 'real' camera, and the noise at high ISOs is irrelevant with lights. But there are some problems. Since the EVF is trying to give me an 'accurate' photo, it's black until the strobes fire. I can only see out of it while it is focusing .... while means I can only use AF lenses with it, since turning off the AF gives me black again. I could use some more lights and a tripod to hold the camera in place when I turn the lights off for the exposure, but that's way too complicated. I hear there's also no zoom option when using manual focus lenses, so focusing might not be as accurate. I didn't try the Pentax lens with an adaptor, so I can't prove that though.</p>

<p>On the other hand, I really like the feel of the Samsung. It feels more like a real camera than the NEX or Pen cameras, and the controls make much more sense. Plus the Sony doesn't work with studio strobes at all (no way to fire them), and the Olympus has a smaller sensor; I've only tested out the P-1, but I didn't feel that my camera did much more than my G10 did once lights were involved. I haven't used the Panasonic, but I suspect similar results since they use basically the same sensors.</p>

<p>So here's my query: is there (A) some sort of menu option I missed on the Samsung, or even a downloadable hack like with some Canons, that would give me an inaccurate, over-boosted live view image so I can see what the hell my composition looks like, and maybe even add a zoom function? Or (B) a compact camera that has a hot shoe for firing strobes, and a broad enough dynamic range to keep brown hair from looking like wool? I would REALLY like to shrink my kit as much as possible, since it seems like I have a different hammer for every nail.</p>

<p>Or should I just sell the Pentax lens for a nice profit and move on?</p>

<p>If I had my druthers, I would have a compact camera for most of my shooting, the Hassy for studio work, and a pocket-sized guy for hiking, social events, etc. But I'm not sure the technology has evolved to the point where I can do that yet. Any help would be appreciated.</p>

<p>Lastly, sorry for the super-long post.</p>

If you're in a studio, just tether the camera and you will have a far better view than through the finder.

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<p>should I just sell the Pentax lens</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, sell it</p>

<p>While you do have a good point Jeff, I sort of feel that you're missing mine. If I'm looking to use a mirrorless camera as a 'light meter', then I don't want to be using a laptop or LCD screen with it. Otherwise I'd just buy a D90. Or more likely, a D300. I'm looking for as simple, compact a setup as possible to achieve the quality I need. Since I don't usually shoot moving subjects, focusing speed and ISO performance, while important, are not at the top of my list. I'm primarily concerned with whether they work with lights, ease of focusing (auto or manual), dynamic range, size, and everything else, in that order.</p>

<p>After reading your post it seems to me that you have a very strange way of working. I'd say that most photographers in a studio would not mind holding a camera like a D90/D300 and many have a very complicated setup with lots of lights, large tripods, multiple cameras, tethered cameras, etc. To them it probably doesn't matter because they're only walking 2 feet to a table to put something down. These same photograhers may have a G10 or NX10 to use when walking many miles around town.</p>

<p>Since your end result is usually on the Hasselblad have you considered buying a Polaroid back for it? They're under $100 on B&H.</p>

<p>Walt-<br>

While I don't technically *disapprove* of a super complicated setup, I'm looking to avoid it as much as possible. I shoot on location now and again, and a lot of my shoots are spontaneous - both in terms of setup, and in terms of the action going on that I might miss. Since I prefer to set up scenes to just popping off model shots, I find that a digital preview is much more useful than a light meter, as I don't yet have the ability to visualize what scenic elements will look like when they interrupt the light.</p>

<p>The Polaroid back is an excellent idea, but I'm not sure about the cost vs. usefulness. The advantage of a new digital camera is that I can also use it elsewhere, and I'm positive that after two years I would have spent enough on instant film to pay for the other camera anyway.<br>

Something like basic like a D3000 does the job fine, but like I said ... I'd like to own a very small amount of hammers for the nails I need to use, and the EVF cameras also offer more compact size and the ability to use basically any lenses. But I'm beginning to feel like a newb, looking for a product that doesn't exist yet and haphazardly shooting people down that are trying to help.</p>

<p>So, sorry about that.</p>

<p>Zach-<br />I understand. I am primarily a studio photographer, and I bit the bullet on the Olympus EM -1 system. The "joy of seeing" at the decisive moment is what is now lacking. I can still get great results, but I had to accept that I cannot really see the image in all it's perfect glory until after I have shot it. Even with the "Live View Boost," images on a black background will appear over exposed and images on a white background will look underexposed. I have been shooting in the music business for 40 years, and now I find I am thinking more about the equipment than I am the energy in the room - or my client's needs. I, too, love the smaller, beautiful equipment, but this is a definite drawback for studio photographers. If I find a solution, I will keep you in mind.</p>