To begin with, the most common mistake I see when people are trying to ETTR (expose to the right) is that they are applying WB gain to the equation and stop when one of the channels appears to be clipping based on the embedded JPEG. Usually this is the red channel, and you read it all the time when someone warns "watch the red channel on the histogram". If you are shooting JPEG, then this is good advice; but ETTR is for shooting in RAW and not suitable for shooting JPEG. To better understand how your camera is actually exposing the scene, WB gain needs to be ignored. Consider the BFA (Bayer filter array), with its 2 green photosites for every blue and red photosite; this means the sensor is twice as sensitive to the green channel as it is to the red and blue channels. Therefore, the red and blue channels have to be amplified by the camera's ASIC for OOC (out of camera) JPEGs or by software as a part of converting the RAW data. This is why noise comes primarily from the red and blue channels, because they are often underexposed. One solution is to only look at the green channel in the histogram being read from the embedded JPEG. The problem is that sometimes you will end up overexposing one of the channels and not even realize it. Now there's something I bet you weren't expecting. As many of you already know, BFA is a composite of the light reaching the photosite filtered to respond to one color, but it is then blended with light from the neighboring photosites to arrive at a value for that pixel that has all three color channels. Take a picture of a deep blue sky in the afternoon and the composite value that makes up the blue channel in the embedded JPEG will look good; but if you only look at the blue channel without applying any red channel gain to the composite pixels in the sky, you will see that the blue channel there has been overexposed. Overexposing a color channel means that even though the histogram says you have an accurate exposure, you have actually ended up with a color shift (not enough blue in those pixels relative to red and green). The problem is that there is no way to view the data accurately without removing the WB gain. To accurately see what your camera is doing therefore requires that you start with a neutral WB, which is called a uni-WB. I am indebted to Julia Borg for here graciousness in making the uni-WB available to me and everyone else who has asked for it. I have some versions of the uni-WB for the D200 and D70 here: http://imageevent.com/tonybeach/mypicturesfolder/junk and they can be installed directly onto those cameras by saving the original file and copying it to a folder being used by the camera (e.g., DCIM > 105ND200) and then accessing the image through the custom WB setting in the camera and applying it. For those with other cameras that can use Nikon Capture, if you have Nikon Capture, you can get the custom WB here: http://www.pochtar.com/UniWB.zip and install it using Nikon Capture. Some other image optimization settings and the selected colorspace and color mode will also affect the embedded JPEG. Therefore, the most accurate display needs to have the following settings applied: aRGB Color Mode II Linear custom contrast curve Saturation Normal Sharpening Off Once you are seeing what your camera is really doing, it becomes apparent that some attenuation of the color channels is desirable for optimal exposure, that way you keep the more sensitive color channels from overexposing while you get adequate saturation in the less sensitive ones. This is accomplished by using a CC (color correction) filter in front of your lens. The amount of color correction is largely dependent on the camera and the lighting, but for a D2x Julia Borg recommends CC40M and for a D200 she recommends CC30M. Here's the problem, and the reason I mentioned Nikon's new cameras in the subject line of this thread -- Nikon's new cameras cannot have custom WB installed. Camera Control Pro is now required to access and upload settings to any camera after the D200, and it doesn't do what could be done with Nikon Capture's camera control module. This means that the D2xs, D80, D40, and D40x do not have this capability. It gets worse, since Nikon is not supporting NC's camera control module anymore, the feature is lost in Vista and any future OS upgrades as well. Recently I was unfairly called a "Nikon fanboy" for not conceeding that my D200 was a piece of junk. Well, I think Nikon could improve their products and I'm confident that they will, that seems like a reasonable stance on my part. However, I am very upset with what Nikon is doing right now with NX and Camera Control Pro; they have taken a $100 item that worked reasonably well and replaced it with a $140 and a $70 item that for my purposes don't work as well. I don't think it's unreasonable of my to implore Nikon to restore custom WB settings to Camera Control Pro so that we can benefit from using uni- WB in the future and make accurate ETTRs.