Electro 35 G - Pad of death or corrosion ?

Hello,

 

finally I've bought into Electro 35, and seems that I have missed some checks

before deal. Battery compartment don't show visible signs of pollution, to be

sure I cleaned spring and cap contacts with naphta. Battery check is positive -

bright green light is on.

In Auto mode, red overexposure lamps reacts to amount of light - if aperture is

large and/or meter sees lot of ligh, red light is on. If aperture is stopped

down or meter is obscured, then red lamp goes off. Orange underexposure lamp

never lights, even if meter is closed by finger. It's hard to judge, but

compared to another point-and-shoots I'm using, I haven't seen on my Electro

shutter opening measured in seconds as I do on Epic, to say.

Note, that in Bulb mode shutter fires for same time as in Auto. Googling around,

I found something similar here

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00ANtJ. Listening sound of

cocking, I can not hear definite 'clunk', sound is even all time.

Maybe be this related to PoD or rather it's electricity issiue ? Meter is

working, just one channel (underexposure) is cut off.

 

I'm not mentioning light seals - after have working with lighter fluid I

estimate that on straightlined Electro it will be a breeze. Just metering problem...

 

TIA,

Andrejs

Forgot to add - in viewfinder orange light also never goes on, red sometimes comes on together with upper-side panel red light, and sometimes - not.

If you do not hear a distinct "Yashica clunk" when moving the advance crank it's very probably a pad problem. The overexposure metering happens in a much earlier stage of pressing the shutter button than underexposure metering. If the shutter button and the slide contacts inside are not in sync (as provided by the pad) the camera will not work correctly, and will not set slower speeds correctly.

 

BTW the red light in the shutter and on top are the same bulb. It will not easily be visible through the red window on top in very bright ambient light.

 

Concerning the B setting problem, this might be due to smudge on slide contacts below the aperture dial. However, I think you first should cope with the pad problem.

<a href="http://feuerbacher.net/photo/frame.html?repair.html~Main">PAd of Death Repair</a> a good guide that lets you actually see the POD.

Thanks guys, it is POD ! Winfried, seems you are contributing much on kyphoto.com forums, I started to go through Electro threads there.

After removing top plate, saw that there's no pad at all, inserted temporary pad made from paper with long trail which don't allow temp pad fall into and voila - orange lamp comes into play ! Even more - Bulb works. Of course, I had another issue - with some apertures shutter is not closing (like staying in Bulb), but as I recall this is sorted out on KYphoto forums.

So I'll glue real pad in place and see how it works after reworking seals. Seems promising, hope this will work.

 

Thank you for encouraging :)

Actually I have posted a lot about the E35's but currently I have turned to some other activities. However, after inserting a pad of suitable thickness (3mm or 1/8 inch approx.) check whether the amber light (if activated) goes off just BEFORE the shutter is released, i.e. before it clicks.

 

I think the problem at certain aperture settings is rather related to dirty slide contacts below the aperture dial. When removing this take care not to loose the tiny ball bearings providing the click stops.

Winfried - you are suggesting 3mm thickness ? Yashica-guy refer to 2mm as critical, and other sorce say 2.2mm is fine, and insist >3mm cause metering problems. If you call 3mm safe, it's much easier to cut this :) I figured that I have linoleum to cut pads for zillion of Electro's.

 

For shutter closing problem I will try to clean contacts under shutter button. If problem stays with certain f-stops only, I will have to go your route, cleaning contacts under aperture ring.

 

And finally, seems that I have to adjust RF - real distance differ from setting on scale focusing ring - Matt Denton describes it, though not clear which screw it is - right under squared hole in mirror hood with (+) type head ?

 

Again, I can just second many thanks you are receiving everywhere on Net :)

I do not remember exact thickness - maybe it is a bit less than 3mm. The rangefinder can be adjusted by the big screw with two crossed slots (it's NOT a Philips screw, it should be turned with a standard screwdriver).

Just implanted POD, went with 2mm thick rubber washer. Chose easy way - opened just top cover. Yes, it gives clunk now (and not with paper pad, mentioned before). For those asking how 'clunk' sounds, there's buddhist answer - one for sure will recognize 'clunk', if it hears it :)

Seems that metering and shutter speeds are realistic, bulb works and haven't tested flash (as I don't have any yet).

 

Please give me a hint on scale focusing - if distance value on scale ring is bigger than real distance, though at infinity setting distant object match yellow image - do I really need to adjust rangefinder (as I undestand) or have to do what is called focus ring adjustment (which should be rare case when ring has moved) ? Well, will go read more on RF adjustments, should come clear.

 

At the end this baby will expose film, I know this !