Elan II Film door latch broken

Yesterday I realized that my trusted Elan II got a broken film door

latch. It had a half-exposed film in it too and I realized the door

is not properly locked. I tried to close to does not lock in, then

later found a small piece of (3 mm) plastic came off from the body

which hold the film door in place when locked. Any body got a

similar problem?

Yep - our Elan II had to go into our local camera repair shop this fall for the same problem.

call canon parts and they'll sell you a replacement latch.

This was the popular complaint against ElanII/50/55 etc... Many people back then chose to use a battery grip to avoid that problem all together. perhaps you might consider a battery grip also.

"This was the popular complaint against ElanII/50/55 etc... Many people back then chose to use a battery grip to avoid that problem all together. perhaps you might consider a battery grip also."

 

Are you thinking of the battery door (and poor battery contact) perhaps? I don't see a connection between the film door and battery grip.

 

Anyway, the film door latch on my Elan II failed too, after I dropped it from waist height to the sidewalk. It was about a $30 repair at a camera shop. If you can get the part, it doesn't look like it would be that tricky to repair yourself.

I have two Elean II's and this has happened to both. The first time I ttok it to a shop and paid $20. The second time I called Canon and bought two latches for $10, including shipping. Now I have a spare. All you need is a very small screw driver. Takes about ten minutes to do the repair.

I got it fixed at the local camera shop. Although I open the outer skin on that side I was not sure that I could do it my self. Do you have to open both top cover and bottom cover as well? Thank you very much for your responces.

oh yeah, I thought the word film in the heading meant the type of camera and not which door, sorry. yeah. my mistake. the battery grip suggestion was for the battery door which is as filmsy as anyone can make a battery door. :(

If I remeber correctly I had to take either three covers off to get the old switch out and the new on in.

I faced the same problem few monthe back and I am still using the PVC tape for closing the camera back. I ordered the replacement switch from Canon USA New Jersy Factory Service Center which is expected anytime now (I am in India) . Can someone confirm if it is only the side plate that needs to be unscrewed for replacing the latch or it is something more difficult which may require taking camera to a repair shop. Thanks.

It's really easy to fix. The part is $15 if ordered directly from Canon. Make sure you have a good set of small screw-drivers. You should be able to fix it yourself.

Same problem here! I e-mailed Canon and they told me the details were "proprietary" - Hah! Then they warned me not to do the repair myself as it would void the warrantee! Geez - this is a ten year old camera! Finally, they wanted me to send it in - C'mon, we Canonites can beat this rap!

 

Would someone please be more specific about how to replace the latch - it appears to take more than just the side cover removed with two screws (that part is ridiculously easy, but the latch is still captive by the metal spring tangs). Is there a web site or posting with instructions someone can share.

 

Cheers to All,

David

I also feel it would be great if someone can post specific instructions about how to change this part. I got the latch from Canon but they are refusing to divulge any more details. Affraid to mess up the things without proper diagrams I am still using duct tape !

i wish i had stumbled on this thread before i paid canon 85 dollars to repair mine. Strange thing was, i am very careful with my cameras. When i put the camera away, it was fine. Next time I opened the bag, it was broken... go figya.

Same problem here with my Elan 2e. Does anybody have the actual part number for ordering it. And any links to buy the part (latch) online? I'm in Argentina and want to buy the part and replace it myself.

The part number is CF1-3129-000. I found at http://www.huroncamera.com/ $15 plus shipping.

http://www.sdcamerasolution.com/index.php?p=page&page_id=elanlatchinstructions

 

Canon Elan II IIE 7 7E Back Door Latch Instructions

CHANGING THE DOOR LATCH ON A CANON ELAN

 

 

 

TOOLS YOU NEED ? small Phillips head screwdriver, tweezers

 

 

 

Remove 2 screws that hold the latch cover plate and remove the plate. (1)

Remove one screw from the bottom of the camera. (2) This one is slightly longer than the other two, so keep it separate.

Pry the camera body apart slightly until you expose the spring (3)

Lift up the latch plate and if it doesn?t come loose by itself, unhook the spring from the back of the plate.

Grab the end of the spring with your tweezers ? NOTE: The loop on the end of the spring has to be put over a pin, so grab the spring by the end coils, not the loop. (4) You don?t need to stretch the spring, the idea is just to hold end of the spring out away from its slot so you can hook the latch on to it.

Hook the pin on the latch to the loop on the spring. (5) Don?t stretch the spring, just hold it and bring the latch to it. IMPORTANT- handle the latch by the plastic parts of it. The metal part is an electrical switch which has to make contact with a circuit board just inside the camera, and is shaped for just that, so you don?t want to bend it by grabbing it. <!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->(It is the part that tells the camera the door is open) The latch goes on the camera with the arrow facing out and pointing down. Hook the spring on the pin that is just at the top of the metal ?fork? (electrical contact)

Now put the new latch in place. Slide the metal contacts under the camera front. (6) Make sure the metal fork is straight and making proper contact with the circuit board. Place the slots on the latch plate over the two pins and set the whole thing down in place.

Squeeze the camera front back together, and replace the latch cover plate.

 

 

Copyright ? 2008 San Diego Camera Solution. All Rights Reserved.

this site shows how to do it

 

http://www.sdcamerasolution.com/index.php?p=page&page_id=elanlatchinstructions

 

I have to do it also and am in the process of getting the parts

Great to have this resource. My trusty little Elan II just did the door latch trick, and I just ordered the part.

 

Thanks all.

<p>Here's a small tutorial on replacing the latch, served up with pictures inside the thread. You'll have to forgive my lame attempts with macro in some of the pictures; I'm still working on it :)<br>

FWIW, I don't recommend the Wal-Mart Stanley brand jeweler's screwdrivers, sold in the tool section, for this surgery. They don't have a phillips small enough and the metal is not very strong. I ended up using the 1.4mm straight slot for removing the screws.<br>

The latch assembly has four small, springy metal contacts on one side. These are 'slider' contacts, and move up and down with the latch as you open and close the film door, contacting two separate circuits to tell the camera when the door is 'open' or 'closed.' They do not need to be soldered or attached in any way.<br>

The setup:</p>

<p><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2474-1.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Below is the broken latch in-camera before removal.</p>

<p><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2478.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Below are the two side screws that need to be removed to access the latch assembly. There are a total of three screws that must be removed to get the latch out.<br>

<img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2476.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>This is the third screw, on the camera body. Remove it. You don't need to remove any other screws to complete this project, and I recommend that you don't! There are lots of little things under the bottom cover that won't go back together the way you want them to.<br>

<img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2503x.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Below we see the camera with two small screwdrivers wedged between the cover, giving you just enough access to see and manipulate the shiny metal spring hooked onto the door latch we're replacing. Go ahead and wedge something small between the body seams - carefully - as shown so you won't be fumbling around blind with the spring.</p>

<p><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2492.jpg" alt="" width="758" height="505" /></p>

<p>Once you are able to pull up on the latch, pull it up and out slowly. The spring is hooked onto a very small peg on the latch, and will come right off while remaining anchored on the other side. The whole assembly should come out smoothly and easily.</p>

<p>Below is what you should have at this point:<br>

<img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2493.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Next we are installing the replacement latch. To accomplish this, you'll need to hold the latch with one hand to maneuver it into the spring, which you'll be positioning with tweezers or a small screwdriver. Don't put tension on the spring at this point; it should slip easily onto the post and all you need to do then is smoothly push the latch assembly down and into place. The spring will have slight tension on it.</p>

<p><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2497.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Below you'll see that the latch is in place, with the spring still visible - since our screwdrivers are still holding the body apart at the seams. The electrical contacts are visible on the lower left hand side of the latch.</p>

<p><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2498.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>With the screwdrivers removed, we are ready for the three screws and cover plate to go back in:</p>

<p><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/scrivyscriv/IMG_2501.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>It's very simple, and should take no more than thirty minutes for a mechanically inclined person to do.</p>

<p>I know some of the picures aren't very sharp and are out of the DOF in places, but they serve much better for identifying where you are in each step than the black & white photos posted in the link above.</p>

<p>The door latch on my Elan 7n recently had the same problem. I already ordered the part, it should be on its way to Brazil.<br>

But I have been looking closely at the camera, specifically at the light trap around the film door. There is a plastic light trap that goes around all the film door, but at the edge of the door that sits on top of the film cartridge there is also a piece of black foam, inside of the trap. I could be wrong, but it seems to me, that when I close the film door, that piece of foam gives extra pressure and turns/flexes the film door a bit, making it stay a bit open at the top and not the bottom.<br>

I was thinking of trimming that piece of foam a little bit, maybe hoping this would make the next door latch last a little longer. Have any of you noticed this?</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Gui</p>

Just in case anybody still has a Canon Elan II / EOS50 / EOS50e and wants to repair the camera back latch, parts are now available from this place on ebay 2x for Canon EOS 50 55 SLR Camera Replacement Side Hook Back Door Buckle ZVMB101 | eBay .

 

Got 2 parts for £12 a pair and they work perfectly. I have been able to rescue the camera from the scrap heap and use it again!

Yesterday I realized that my trusted Elan II got a broken film door

latch. It had a half-exposed film in it too and I realized the door

is not properly locked. I tried to close to does not lock in, then

later found a small piece of (3 mm) plastic came off from the body

which hold the film door in place when locked. Any body got a

similar problem?

 

Don't know if this helps, I have an EOS Elan IIe gathering dust, I know it's it's late, but it's yours if you want it, saves me taking it to our local Thrift Store. Also, I have an EOS 650.

Now this kind of 're-animation' is useful since important new information is offered. Thanks michaelcampbell

 

I missed it in October, I'm afraid.

 

3D printers are another long term solution to many of these old missing and broken parts issues.