Efke 25 processing.....

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by huntrbll, Aug 24, 2005.

  1. I just bought 10 rolls of Efke 25 120 film to shoot in medium
    format folders I also recently purchased. I have read a lot of good
    things about this film, but was wondering how most people process it
    for best results. I plan on both scanning and printing in a
    traditional darkroom....
    Any other recommendations for a fine-grain B&W film and processing????
  2. Bill, I am very intersted in your results I have thought of ordering some myself. Let me know how they turn out and post some print scans for us. I miss agfapan 25.
  3. Hi Bill,

    About 3 weeks ago I shot my first roll of Adox 25 (same material). I developed it in Neofin Blau (Blue) with the times from the "Massive Development Chart" -- something like 8 min @ 20 C. -- and the negatives came out great. Looking at the negatives only (I haven't had the time to print them yet), APX 25 seems to hold the slightest advantage over the Adox/Efke with respect to grain. But honestly, the difference isn't worth arguing over. I will wait 'til I have time to go into the darkroom before I make any further claims, but I believe I have found my replacement for APX 25.
    Also be very careful when handling the film after processing. The emulsion is very soft and scratches easily until it is completely dry.

  4. Hi

    I use it in my folders too. I use a 2 minute pre-wash, then Rodinal 1+100 for 17 to 18 minutes, using a reduced agitation scheme - 15s each minute (5 inversions) for first three minutes, then one inversion every three minutes. Then use water as a stop bath and fix as per usual. The 1+100 dilution helps ensure the contrast is manageable, and developed like this it scans very nice.

    (There are a couple of examples in my gallery)

    Other fine grain films I've used and liked are Ilford Delta 100 and Fuji Acros 100. For colour, Fuji Reala is really nice.

  5. The water pre-wash is important for Efke, which has a tendency to curl badly if not pre-washed. Rodinal 1:50 or 1:100 gives very good results.

    Remember that Efke 25 and Efke 50 (but not Efke 100) are orthopanchromatic, and not panchromatic. This property can be used to produce interesting effects: if you shoot people in "sunny 16" conditions, using a green filter, their skin takes on a bronzed look.

    Good shooting.

    /s/ David Beal ** Memories Preserved Photography, LLC
  6. Rodinal 1+100 works great in Efke 25.

    Xtol or similar should give you finer grain, but... why?
    Also you'd have to dilute them, the development times are bound to be extra short.
  7. Here are some mine notes I took while I was on my last vacation year ago - not the perfect situation for developing, temperature of chemicals was from 18-22°C (room temperature above 25 or even 28°). Than, my timing was +/- 30 seconds... I didn't care much as I was just testing my Tachihara and didn't expect perfect results. Anyway, I'm really happy with what I have got.
    (sorry for my clumsy english)

    Xtol 1+1
    7.5-8 min. in developer, same time in water. little bit to strong.
    4 min. in dev., 4 min in water, 3min. in dev, 5min. in w., almost perfect - exposed by sunny 16 rule as my meter died in the filed.

    Xtol 1+2
    11 minutes in dev. 10 in water. (s-16-r again, same day as above), slightly weaker. good but could be a bit stronger. 12 minutes?
    11 minutes, no water bath. 21°. could be stronger.

    Xtol 1+3
    (negative is perfect, but I don't know exactly what I meant with those timing:)
    5+5+5+10, no agitation (?), night temperature.

    Xtol 1+4(1000ml) + 5ml Rodinal
    (high contrast shot - sunset with white clouds and very dark trees. orange filter used)
    (two sheets, exposed as 12 and 50 ASA)
    10 min dev. 8 min water, 8min dev. 10min w., normal agitation.
    12 ASA - slightly stronger, less agitation would help.
    50 ASA - a little bit week.
    conclusion - stupido, use efke 25 as 25...
    (I hate that meter, dead again. sunny 16 again) 25 ASA, orange filter, 1/15 f 16, go to 1/4 f 32. 1st plate - close the shutter after compousing frame! 2nd plate - 16min with regular constant agaitation (2 circles / 30 sec.). 10 min in water bath. Isn't that perfect? :) (this shot is attached here, unfortunately, some moire ocured in sky, should scan on drum scanner)

    (studio strobes, few weeks later)

    Rodinal 1+50
    7 min. - could be stronger
    8 min. - almost perfect.

    Rodinal 1+75
    12 min. - will be good for scan, not for condenser enlarger.
    14 min. with 6 in water. good. not perfect grain.

    that's it. I was using 9x12cm efke PL 25. hope it will help as some starting point.
  8. I rate it at about EI 20 and develop in Rodinal 1+50 for 4.5 minutes at 20C. But you will find literally dozens of threads discussing it if you search the archives both here and at www.apug.org. It both scans and prints well.
  9. There are lots of developers you can use with Efke 25. However Rodinal seems to really bring
    out it's best qualities. The 1:100 dilution is ideal. I use that dilution and develop for 20
    minutes. Presoak w/water, Agitate Rodinal continuouly the first 30 seconds, and then 3
    inversions every other minute. Use your first roll as a test, since dilute Rodinal development
    is very unique to the user.
  10. I have to say that I don't like grain which I'm geting with Rodinal, and I have found that XTol makes me much finier grain. At least with longer developing time in weaker developr (which should create finer tones). The previous picture I posted is just an example of such rich tones, but the picture itself isn't of the best sharpnes (old 135mm symmar in windy day). This one was made with really sharp G-Claron, was scanned on Topaz at 2500 dpi. The details here are resized at 50%. Shot was efke 25 developed in XTol 1+2 for 11 minutes, no water bath. I would like to have it developed with some wather bath and maybe in a slightly cooler developer. But that is all under 2-3%...
  11. I too also used Rodinal 1+100 for Efke 25 but my negs came out waaayy too dense and therfore contrasty. Going by what I'm reading hear, it looks like one needs to cut back on the agitation. I'm always afraid to do this because I hear that negs can get streaked.
  12. Three ways I process Efke25.

    Sheet film is done in PyrocatHD in a rotary processor, loverly stuff. Normal roll film is done in W2D2+, amazing tonality and grain. High contrast architectural stuff is done in Rodinal 1+200 stand development. Startling graphic detail and tone. I have used my homebrewed 777 on it for an old fashioned look but have not tamed that beast yet.

    That said, if you don't blow out the highlights, most developers will work, I wouldn't use something like straight D76 or Diafine on it though.

    tim in san jose

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