Dynalite 2040 / 1000x System Questions

<p>Hello<br>

Company i work for recently received a package of photo lighting gear on a trade for some production work. I've done some investigation into what we have here and it seems like the gear, while old, is still in great shape and of a professional grade. Most of the work we do is video work, but we occasionally do still photo work as well - i shoot with a Nikon D90 and have been using SB-600 and SB-900 speedlights wirelessly using the Nikon CLS system with great results (despite speedlights not being considered a top notch lighting solution).<br>

What i'd like to know, is if there is any way to use this equipment with my DSLR gear? I'm pretty sure i am missing the component that would trigger the flash units, but i'm not 100% sure what i would even need. i'm pretty sure all this dynalite gear has been discontinued, so is this stuff worthless? Can it be made to work with an aftermarket triggering system? Can this stuff be triggered by something like a pocketwizard? If so, could someone drop me a link to the product(s) that would do this? <br>

This is what i've got in the package, and this is IT, aside from a few diffusers, nothing else was included in the case we received. Thanks in advance for any information!</p>

2 x Dynalite 2040

<p>1 x Dynalite 4040<br>

1 x Dynalite M1000x<br>

Assorted Twistlock cables for attaching lights to M1000x (there is a 3 pin/blade 'sync' plug on the M1000x that i don't seem to have the cable for?)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>This equipment is not that out of date, it is still mostly in production. As far as I know, Dynalite is a healty company.<br>

I use a similar system, my power packs may be slightly newer.<br>

You definitely need to use something like a pocket wizard and not plug the sync in directly to protect the camera.<br>

A couple of standard Pocket Wizard plus II transceivers and the cable to the pack is all you would need. a standard household will work even with the 3 blade socket. Also you will probably want to tether to your computer, as the flash is purely manual.<br>

The problem with older equipment is not so much it being out of date, is that if it has sat around a lot the capacitors can go bad without frequent use. It can cost more then the power pack is worth to replace them. If they are ok though, repairs for other parts of the power packs and system are reasonably inexpensive and easy to have done. I would have them checked out by a good local repair place though.</p>

<p>Since your D90 has no connection means for Dynalights or Pocket Wizards without additional equipment or without loosing CLS, try to put SB900 in D90 camera hot shoe, and use the PC sync socket on the SB900 to connect your Dynalights.</p>

<p>Of course insted of cables, you can get Pocket Wizards and connect PW transmitter to the SB900 PC sync socket.</p>

<p>You could use all flashes in manual, or combination of CLS flash automated determination and incompatible Dynalights set manually in single exposure, if you know how to prevent overpowering the CLS determined light with strong Dynalights. Use diffusers, or direct Dynalights for ambleint flash lighting, etc.</p>

<p>wow guys, thanks for the quick responses! So if i'm understanding correctly i could:<br>

- get a std PC Sync cord<br>

- get a PocketWizard set (or comparable trigger system)<br>

- attach PW transmitter to hotshoe mounted SB900 via PC Cord<br>

- attach PW receiver to M1000x via Sync cord (or hack a std household cord)<br>

- Enjoy?</p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>The 1000x is far from worthless. Go to the Dynalite site and download the pdf manul for power packs. Look at the 1000er and 500xl instructions. You should be able to figure things out. You can order the 3 prong cable from Dynalite as well.</p>

<p>Just remember that iTTL and the packs don't mix, exposure wise, and that iTTL pre flashes can set off the pack if the pack is set to slave. I'd use the pack system with a sync cord or the built in slaves (set your Nikon flashes to manual or auto thyristor) before getting into wireless triggering. That should give you a better idea of what you will want in the way of triggers.</p>

<p>I have a Dynalite 500x and Cybersync triggers.</p>

<p>Since your D90 does not have a PC port, you can get hotshoe adapters that provide the port, if you want to use it that way.</p>

<p>I'll trade an SB800 for all that worthless gear ;-)<br>

Seriously though, it's nice gear, but it's a pack/head studio setup. Some people hate this compared to a monolight setup because adjusting ratios can be a pain but it's a nice setup. You're on the right track w/ a PW set. My guess is you might hate it and you might consider selling it for a monolight setup depending on what you want to do w/ it (sounds like it's your company's first studio lighting setup)...</p>

 

<p>Yeah i didn't mean to infer it was all worthless - the quality is totally apparent and it was the reason i was kinda stoked on what i found in the case. Seemed like dynalite had a whole new line of product so i was just afraid that the stuff was more incompatible than 'worthless', but yeah, thanks for all the info.<br>

Honestly, chances are our company will never use the stuff, but since i have access to it i know i can use it for my own purposes (jackpot!). Think you're totally right that i would prefer a monolight setup but seeing as this rig has fallen into my lap and i'm not using it for anything more than my own (non-paying) personal studio shoots i'm gonna try it out and see how it all works, it'll be a learning experience if anything.<br>

Btw - I plugged the units in and they all fire with the test button - for some reason the modeling light switch turns on the fans, but not the lights themselves? Do they only come on when connected to a sync cord or maybe the bulbs in the modeling lights are shot?<br>

I'm going to get a PC Sync cord and just run it from my SB900 in manual mode and see what happens. I doubt i will mix speedlights with this setup as i have three really nice lights to work with, won't need the extra light from the SB600/900's anyway. If that doesn't work i'll just get a hotshoe mounted PC cord adapter for my D90 and keep the SB's out of the equation entirely. <br>

Curious to compare the quality of light between these dynalites and the speedlights, i'm hoping to see some drastic improvement but have a feeling it won't be so much, we'll see!</p>

 

<p>Chris--read the manuals re the modeling lights. There are rocker switches to control these, but it could very well be the bulbs are shot.</p>

<p>These lights are usually used with modifiers, but comparing bare heads to shoemounts--the light is still harsh, but the Dynalite heads are bigger, so the light isn't as pinched looking. I would recommend you invest in umbrellas (the cheapest) for your experimentation.</p>

<p>Tip: Plug the pack in, and turn it on for about 24 hours to reform the capacitors before you use it... t</p>