DSLRs and auto thyristor flashes

In my photography I am gradually into areas where on camera flash is a necessity

- despite trying my best to avoid it. In these days of auto everything is there

any reason (other than high trigger voltages) why I can't continue to use the

"old" technology of manual or auto flash. I would have thought with the advent

of histograms these settings would be even more flexible than do-it-all E-TTL.

Does anyone out there still use the likes of the Sunpak 120J and Metz 45 with

their DSLRs or have the new breed of TTL flashes made these redundant. I'd be

really interested to hear from anyone with a method of achieving consistent

results with manula or auto flash.

Cheers.

Alan

I still use Vivitar 283/285, and Sunpak series' flashes on my D70. I'ver read consistently about higher trigger voltages, but then I have a (professional) friend who has shot thousands of exposures with both these kinds of flashes, and with studio lights, with absolutely no hot shoe issues.

 

It probably isn't the best idea to run without a voltage stepper, but I've done it from time to time purely for the power output and flexibility. (My sunpak has the rechargeable pack, an off-camera cord, and I have three different stroboframe brackets that work nicely with it. The Vivitar 283 still has- in my opinion- the best flash diffuser EVER MADE for semi-compact photography: the 8x10 Kodak card in a Vivitar holder, and an off-shoe bracket. I can NOT seem to get the same, diffuse, shadow-eliminating effect from any flash since, including the Nikon...er- what is it... $400 ETTL flash with the little bounce card. I'm sorry, it's a fairly recent purchase, so I don't have the number.)

 

But for all of that extra crap we've added- and perfected- with all the old flash equipment and techniques- why the heck NOT use it?

 

The only thing I've found is that the system run that way is better off using the old center-weighted, averaging metering; which seems to defeat the expensive matrix-style metering built into nearly any DSLR that isn't found in every department store.

 

BUT, you've a technique, right? You've got a way to do it that you know works, you know when and where to move the thyristor setting around, or when to change the fstop - and even BETTER: you have the option now to change your ISO around to suit the needs of the artificial lighting- something you were never really able to do reliably in the past.

 

If I knew where I could get a voltage adapter right now, I'd go buy one. For me it looks as though this particular purchase will have to be mail or internet. In the meantime, when it really counts, I'm going to grab the 283 and card for oily-skinned subjects or close-proximity indoor shots, or the Sunpak so I can shoot all afternoon.

 

And, what of that macro ring flash I've used for certain macro shots? I miss having that option.

 

Just my opinion though. I'm kinda a "garage-engineering" type and will take- or make- whatever ends up working for ME.

A lot of people use DSLRs with completely manual studio flash systems.

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The Sunpak 383 that I often use on my D200 is a step up in automation over studio flash. It works just as well on the D200 as it does on film cameras. Unlike fancy i-TTL systems, the auto thyristor unit has no pre-flash to trigger people's blink reflex. It's easy to control, can be swiveled and tilted to bounce off of walls and ceilings, and its exposure control behaves entirely predictably.

I have a Sunpak 120J, Metz 45 and 60, and Vivitar 283/285s. While I use a 580EX with my Canon digital, I have used these with it. They work fine and if you are used to the auto thyristor flash metering, will have very little learning curve on a digital. The biggest disadvantage, as far as I'm concerned, is the fact that you can't throttle these flashes down as much as one might when using your digital at high ISO/wide aperture, and the one extra step in adjusting settings, which can get old when switching ISOs and f stops in fast moving situations like weddings. Otherwise, they are wonderful.

There's no reason why you can't use the "old" flashes with new equipment. If you're concerned about sync voltages, a simple device like the Wein Safe-Sync between the flash and camera solves that problem. I used a 550EX with my Canons for a bit and sold it as I didn't find E-TTL to be an advantage for me and I really didn't like the fact that it was not easily used on non-Canon bodies (I use mechanical film cameras and digital). I use various Sunpak, Vivitar, and Metz auto flashes depending on the situation. My standard wedding/event rig is a Metz 60 on camera (I bounce a lot so the extra power comes in handy) and 2 Metz 60's on stands for formals/reception.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I was beginning to think I would missing out on something if I didn't pack the Vivitars and Sunpaks in for something more expensive. I supppose the principles of good exposure don't change simply because I have stopped using film. One big advantage is a substantial cost saving, given that most people are flogging the old workhorses for next to nothing on eBay.

Thanks again, Alan