unfortunately: "no". I dropped a few. sometimes they seem to survive other times they have obvious issues. as far as compacts are concerned: I'm no friend of wriststraps since the odds you might drop the camera out of a jacket pocket, while doing something entirely different than photography, seem just too high. On my late casio just the trigger button plate fell out and could get remounted. On my Leica the rangefinder mechanism got misaligned and on a Pentax DSLR the rear display and the cardslot cover broke. I backpacked a on 2 AAA batteries depending compact film mamiya U and suspect that vibrations in a bike's side case somehow killed contacts in the battery compartment. A bunch of co-workers had drop damaged cellphone displays. Dunno what to suggest. You can insure camera gear against your clumsiness. It costs and either you can handle the related paperwork & hassle with repair companies or you can't and if you bought a used camera, you might just get money to buy another. You can shoot something cheap enough to shrug potential losses off laughingly. There are some rough waterproof and according to their manufactturers pretty drop proof compacts, I have a seasoned Pentax of that kind. I didn't break it yet but the tiny sensor inside + no image stabilization take their toll and a GR should punch several leagues above that toy (which the previous owner considered outperformed by his smart phone). I've been lugging cameras for 3 decades. "Pocketable" never really worked for me. OK a Minox, a tad shorter than a C, could make it's way into my pants' front pocket permanently, but anything bigger than a lighter or swiss army knife feels too big there. I don't have enough shirts with pockets to wear a 35mm Minox there and my life would shout for secured shirt pockets, that would translate to missed shots. Pocketability means nothing when you have no pockets! During very late film days I had a folding 35mm rangefinder in a side pocket of my backpack. I took some pictures with it but think it would have been more if that camera (Retina II) had come with strap lugs. I don't advertise turning yourself into an abused pack animal breaking down under the weight of your enormous kit. I'm just trying to suggest looking at neither overly heavy nor extremely bulky APS C ILCs with their (stabilized!) standard kit zooms. If you break your lens you should get another for 50 €/$ used if you break the elderly camera reasonable replacement (with lens) could be had for 250€/$ anytime.IMHO not much to worry about, drop damaging iphones seems more expensive. Bags & padding: I like slightly padded holster like bags for my cameras and scoop them up used or at the supermarket. Important feature is an ability to sink them in my backpack on the march, attach them to a (backpack) starp "almost ready" and wearing the camera naked while really busy shooting. Pardon my lack of (is that "balistical"?) knowledge about bag paddings. In theory they should help a bit... practically they seem too thin to help much! When you spent your very last cent on a camera & a travel ticket, use some spare clothing like a towel or a sweater wrapped around the camera inside your backpack I am not aware of any kind of event that could be accessed with something like the GR but not with a basic DSLR or such. I also believe that your camera type doesn't matter when it comes to photographing people. Clarifying: You can be more of a nuissance arranging us for a cellphone snap than another guy with a Speed Graphic. - Whatever speeds up your focus acquisition is of course nice to have though. Otherwise: Cell phone shooters look frequently at least as "shooting" as ILC users, so I think you don't need a compact camera for stealth. If you are backpacking anyhow: A regular APS MILC or entry level DSLR will not weigh much more than a GR, it will mean just a tiny bit of additional bulk. My personal take on camera damages: I'll take them as part of fate. If I go anywhere to shoot (i.e. "bring shots home" instead of "having my fun there"), I bring more than one camera.