does anyone use the Rowell -1.7 flash exposure mod?

<p>If so, how do you keep the camera from thwarting you? do you set the camera to Manual mode?</p>

<p>Sure you don't mean -0.7 stops?</p>

<p>All depends on your flash setup.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Galen's recommendation is pretty old and TTL metering technology was pretty different back then. then. When I want use flash compensation I just set the flash compensation to the + or - settign that makes the photo look best. </p>

<p>Also what cameras and flashes are you using. </p>

<p>I use a Nikon D90 with an SB600 and a F100 with a SB80X.</p>

<p>Thom Hogan and Galen Rowell wrote -1.7 for balanced fill flash.</p>

<p>The D90 and SB-600 offer far more reliable TTL flash than earlier Nikon TTL flash, which wasn't bad either. My usual rule of thumb for outdoor fill flash is -0.7 (D2H and SB-800). I might use -1.7 indoors in small spaces with bright walls and ceilings (such as a typical apartment living room), but that'd be too much for typical outdoor daylight use. Even with auto-everything mode it works reliably. Occasionally I might need to dial in a little more or less depending on circumstances such as bright backlighting from a low sun behind the subjects.</p>

<p>It's very easy to run a few tests. That's what I did when I first got the D2H and SB-800 in 2005. I wasn't sure whether to trust it but a few quick tests outdoors with various subjects - family, kids, pets - in various lighting conditions, quickly proved the system is reliable.</p>

<p>Be sure to try the FV Lock option as well. It really helps in getting consistent flash results, especially when using a zoom to change focal lengths without changing focus or subject-to-camera distance.</p>

<p>For daylight fill, I normally set between -1 and -1.5 stops below ambient. It gives a nice separation to the subject and eye highlights, without blasting away all of the character of the ambient light (which remains the key light.) I think the call for -1.7 is because of Nikon's use of 1/3 stops. I prefer -1.5 stops, but -1.7 is close enough and works well. However, it's worth testing first -- different circumstances call for anything between -.7 and -1.7.<br>

It's simple to apply, whether using Nikon TTL (SB-26 and SB-28 on an F100) or using Auto-flash with any camera (say an SB-26 on Auto mode, or a Metz CT-4.)</p>