Do I Need Different Types of Fixer for Tri-X and T-max film?

I was reading a Photo.net thread from 2007, and I came across this statement:

 

 

I'm trying to set up a B&W darkroom, and I shoot both Tri-X and T-max (100 and 400). When I had a darkroom back in the 70's-80's, I used Kodak fixer for everything, usually D-76. It would be inconvenient to have to use 2 types of fixer and keep track of which film needs which fixer in my new darkroom.

 

Thanks for any recommendations.

 

 

Hmm... I recommend you

use "Great Ape" brand

universal developer...

http://bayouline.com/o2.gif

Kodak Rapid Fixer (ammonium thiosulphate) should work with any film. T Max films reduce the capacity of fixers faster than older films like the Ilford films that you mentioned or Tri-X. I have used Kodak Rapid Fixer for decades with all types of B&W film and it has always worked well for me. If I were choosing one fixer for film, that would be it.

Rapid fixer is all I ever use-either commercial preparations or my own concoction.

 

My main films are Tri-X in 35mm and 120 and FP4+ in 120 and 4x5. In terms of surface area, I probably do 70% Tri-X and 30% FP4+.

 

When I do run a T-grain film(I have enough oddball lots of 4x5 that I'll throw in TMAX or Delta every once in a while rather than committing to a roll in one of the smaller formats), I just use it with the same fixer. When the fixing time gets too long, I toss it and make fresh.

The only factor in either sodium or ammonium based fixers is time. 2x the clearing time of a film strip will get you into archival status. I have used both on just about every emulsion in the world & both have perform excellently. Edited October 24, 2017 by Bill Bowes

Same here. I almost always use old fashioned Kodak acid fixer for everything and just make sure the time is 2X clear. I started using Photographer's Formulary alkaline fixer for film and had no trouble with that either, though I don't know if I'll see any benefit in my lifetime. All my negs from the early '70s are in perfect shape and they were all done in regular fixer. Regardless of fixer, be sure to wash well.

I've never seen any official statement from Kodak declaring standard sodium fixer unsuitable for T-max, it just needs a slightly extended fixing time. The only real issue is that the purple AH dye is difficult to clear sometimes, but it doesn't affect the printing or scanning qualities of the negatives.

 

As has already been said: Rapid fixer is suitable for any generation of film.

 

"Hmm... I recommend you

use "Great Ape" brand

universal developer..."

 

- Well I don't! Use a film developer for film, and a paper developer for paper.

Edited October 24, 2017 by rodeo_joe|1

Thanks for all the replies.

 

My Great Ape, Ms. Dee Rayle, has just started her own photographic supply company. From what I hear, it's not doing too well.

 

 

Hmm... I've been sabotaged

by lowly monkeys...

http://bayouline.com/o2.gif

It takes longer, but yes, I believe that Na based fixers are fine with T-Max.

 

Long enough that you really want rapid fixer.

 

The difference is that the tabular grains develop and fix only from the (thin) edges.

 

I am not sure about capacity. It should depend on the amount of silver halide removed.

 

Ilford rapid fixer comes in smaller bottles, which is convenient, and isn't so expensive.

It takes longer, but yes, I believe that Na based fixers are fine with T-Max.

 

Long enough that you really want rapid fixer.

 

I've become too lazy to use anything other than rapid fixers. That's true of all film types and paper as well.

 

As you said, the Ilford bottles are small and cheap. For paper, I make it up as I need it.

 

Also, for anyone so inclined rapid fixers really aren't difficult to make yourself. From memory, I think all you need is sodium thiosulfate and ammonium chloride.

As well as I know, ammonium thiosulfate and acetic acid. The pH has to be in the right range.

 

If you put sodium ions in, it isn't so different from non-rapid fixer.

 

Kodak gives you hardener, I believe boric acid, in a separate bottle.

 

Ilford just says non-hardening, which seems to be fine for today's film and paper.

 

I have had a few times, my not overused mixed fixer plate silver on the inside of the bottle.

I believe this happens when the pH gets out of range, but I don't have a pH meter.

Depending on the ratio, the mixture of ammonium chloride and sodium thiosulfate should be acidic, although I've never actually checked the pH. I'll have to check some of the rapid fixer I have on hand as a guideline. I know that the stuff I've made up at least more or less passed the smell test, albeit not as strongly as a "real" rapid fixer.

 

Yes, I do have a pH meter, or at least have one at work :) . In fact, making sure that we have about 40 of them working and giving valid results is a(small) part of my day job.

For the pyro people, the only "matra" is it (fixer) must be alkaline, not acid, to retain 100% of the pyro stain. When I do use the Kodak films, I get rid of the AH dye with about 0.1 gram of sodium sulfite in the first "wash" (5min) of a series of (6) washes, using my Ilford method from the Igloo cooler. The AH left-over only occurs when I use my DIY sodium thiosulfate fixer. Bill