do digital photographers need an external light meter?

It depends what you are trying to photograph. There are certainly cases where meters get you to the result quicker than trial and error via the camera - particularly with studio strobe work, or for some particularly tricky lighting situations, such as theatrical lighting, or landscapes with a very large dynamic range in fast changing light conditions at dawn or dusk.

i read in a well known uk photo magazine that many photographers (including the

one that was doing the review i was reading) don?t bother with external light

meters when shooting digital. I know and can see the importance for film

photographers but do the top working digi photographers really work without

them?

 

thanks..

<p>Actually, I find that trial and error is quicker when using a digital camera with a

histogram display.

 

<p>Traditionalists may gag at what I'm about to write, but it works for me.

 

<p>I often simply start by taking a shot using the camera's automatic exposure capability,

typically in Av mode on my Canon DSLR. I check the histogram and look for

 

<ul>

<li>clipping at either end of the histogram display.

<li>the flashing in the display that indicates clipping/burned out areas.

</ul>

 

<p>Within seconds I can estimate an adjustment to the automatic setting and I'll either

get there via the exposure compensation settings (if I'm working quickly) or via manual

settings (when I'm working slowly and carefully). Most often the guess I make after viewing

the results of the automatic exposure is close if not right on. Sometimes it takes a couple

of exposures to get it right.

 

<p>I do a lot of landscapes, and this works quite well for me. I don't use artificial lighting,

so I can't speak to that issue.

 

<p>I agree that dawn and dusk exposures create some very difficult problems due to the

potential for a very wide dynamic range. In these situations I often make multiple images

at different exposures, over a range that will nicely expose everthing from the darkest

shadows to the brightest highlights, and I then combine them using Photoshop

techniques.

 

<p>One of the advantages of this histogram/clipping display is that the camera quickly

finds the brightest area that you would otherwise have to locate by a bit of trial and error

for spot metering.

 

<p>OK, I'll take cover now... :-)

 

<p>Dan

ANY photographer MUST know how to measure light, IMHO. I don't do digital for other reasons other to and including than the digital workflow. Does the final result, a print, differ significantly from the camera's display for review? Is there a danger of deleting the wrong file when in the field?

I use one all the time. I meter individual strobes, set ratios as desired, then fire away at the metered settings, adjust a bit according to histogram (just like a medium format polaroid), then bang away.

 

Yes, I histogram, but the initial flash ratios are all done in some cases before the camera is even on the tripod... I'm also pretty decent at estimating distances vs power settings in general, enough to histogram the rest anyway. Not enough to just shoot film though, lol. I guess I'm just used to (and enjoy), the manual metering aspect. Rely on it too, I suppose.

 

That's my method anyway. Totally depends on what/how you shoot/feel confident with, I imagine.

"Many photographers don't use an external meter when shooting film."

 

I agree, I'm one of them, but it takes practice, no?

Many photographers don't use an external meter when shooting film.

I'm with Dan M., I used to use the spot or "fat spot" on film cameras, got good exposure once I learned something. Use the fat spot plus histogram now to check the ends. Invaluable for spotting the blowouts

 

Tried to use a handheld spot meter, basically ended up confusing myself, no better results than the camera's meter

Flash meters, like Joseph says, are required when DSLR cameras are used with older flashes, or with mix of old and new flashes, in manual flash modes.

 

When you use and older flash, or in combination, the camera flash metering system or flash modes are not appropriate, so Manual mode must be used in most cases (there are exceptions though), and use of an external flash meter is essential.

I have done many outdoor weddings, some of them in very difficult light like a 12 o'clock high noontime ceremony. I used a simple incident meter to get an overall reading and then set fill flash to lighten those nasty noontime shadows. I use a flash meter in the studio as it is the quickest way to set flash ratios. It is quicker than using a digital display and sometimes the digital display is not true to the actual exposure. I find the meter more accurate.

If you have to ask if you need a lightmeter, then I guess you don't need one. I have one with me most of the time even tough I don't usaly use it. But it is handy when I'm shhoting film which I stil enjoy doing every now and then.

 

Cameras mesure the reflected light, while lightmeter's mesures the incident light, I somehow seem to get better exposure results on indoor shots using my lightmeter, but for outdoor shots most of the time I go with my camera's meter.

I find an external light meter fairly redundant, especially for ambient light situations. When shooting digital, just glance at the histogram. As long as the image area of primary interest is placed where you want it in the exposure, you're done. If you like, just treat the first exposure taken as an equivalent light meter reading.

The histogram can tell you far more than a meter, with the exception of lighting ratios in the studio. However, in the studio, with a tethered camera or a computer used regularly to check the card. In the field, there is no question of the value of the histogram, and combined with a spot meter (in the camera, typically), gives you everything you need to know about the light.

thank you so much for your comments, i really do enjoy using this forum and have learnt so much.

 

As I am new to photography but desperately keen to learn, I took the plunge and purchased a Bowens 2 x 500w/s monolight kit and powerpack, with a softbox and a separate lastolite 36" reflector. Plus a Sekonicic L758D light meter. I must admit, I'm really still in the dark (no pun intended!) and have weddings booked in a few months from now. i'll probably post another million questions here before im done! LOL

I do like your business model!

 

"I am new to photography but desperately keen to learn"

 

and "I'm really still in the dark (no pun intended!) and have weddings booked in a few months from now".

 

Maybe you bet the couples will disintegrate before their "big day" to save you embarrassment? WOW! What confidence, I envy you.

I've used an old Gossen hand held meter for night time photography with great results. Anything longer than 30 seconds and your built in meter is useless.

Frank - it's called JUST DOING IT! And if you didn?t realise good business takes BALLS! then god help you!

However, the question is more to do with using the light meter so I accept my statement was a little inaccurate. Sometimes I like to exaggerate in order to emphasise my point  I've been using cameras with out a light meter for almost 25 years though not in a "professional" manner.

Another thing Frank... when i was 20 years old i didn?t know anything about teaching. But in 7 years I OWNED and successfully ran a private college that became known internationally for its teaching of some of the youngest children in the world to take examinations! Always in the press and TV and Guinness book of records 4 times. Now, that's the sort of business model i like to work with frank.

 

any questions?!

"I am new to photography but desperately keen to learn"

 

Is this a formal wedding? If so and it is your first, may I recommend seeking out a professional wedding photographer who has a similar wedding upcoming and see if he or she will take you on as an assistant so that you can go through the entire process first?

 

Your previous business acumen may not all translate over to wedding photography or whether you have the "balls" to deal with the bride and her mum, the priest or minister, the method of proofing and selection, not to mention the inevitable glitches and how to resolve them in a timely way, and many more specificities of the biz.

Thanks Don for your info. No, this is not my first and my risk is calculated. I?ve done a few weddings before and very akin to dealing with people and certainly the post production with regard Photoshop etc. I have a great print service so not worried about the printing aspect.

 

My original statement was a little misleading but I wanted to point out that I don?t have much professional experience. The weddings are a few months off and I have more than enough equipment to cope with the event. I just wanted some help with regards to light meters as i have virtually no experience with these nor external lighting for that matter.

 

Yes, my other business is irrelevant here. However, I thought it might drive the point home to frank. Sorry, if it was a bit strong!

 

And, if I mess up... I'll tell u all about it!! LOL

I think a handheld light meter is necessary kit, no matter the kind of capture or photography. There are always situations where the camera's metering or histogram lies, and it is good to have an "outside" opinion (and the knowledge and experience to square the several readings with the reality).

 

In difficult lighting (which you are likely to encounter in a wedding shoot) it can save a lot of (sometimes futile) work in Photoshop, especially if you shoot jpeg.

 

Have you asked about this on the Weddings forum?

Thank you Don. No I didn't ask on the wedding forum as its not only weddings I will do. However, a quick scan before I posted this question didn?t yield much. Then again, it as only a quick scan!

 

But reading some of the photo magazines (im in UK), it appears that many digital photographers have them but don?t use them often. As you say, I guess this is where your experience comes in, a combination of Histogram/Light meter and experience gives you the right exposure!

 

For my last wedding I only used a Canon 580EX on-camera flashgun, and the results we pleasing and just using the histogram. But yes you are totally right about relying too much on this because on several occasions I had re-shoot individual shots which made my schedule a little tight.

"As I am new to photography but desperately keen to learn"

 

Sting, Your arrogant verbal attack at Frank, was uncalled for. You lied in your post (above). And when Frank in good faith responded to it, you took offense.

Lied! about what exactly? I even mentioned the statement was inaccurate how is this a lie?!! Anthony if you have something worth while to add to this thread then add it.. otherwise stop being rude as your comment is UNCALLED FOR!

Sting, I apologize for using the word "lie" as it caused offense, and retract that comment.

 

I should of said you knowingly misrepresented yourself. And reacted when Frank justifiably responded to your post.